Pass. side motor mount bolts...HELP!

So the pass. side motor mount to block bolts sheared off AGAIN....just fixed it last fall.

This time have pulled both motor mount big bolts; pulled alternator and lowered motor as far as I could. Not much room, even with right angle drill attachment (from Harbor Freight so not the best).
1) Tried drilling center bolt for ez-out; got ez-out in, put pliers on it and snapped tip off in hole.
2) Tried drilling out front bolt and got hole started then snalled tip of bit off in hole.
3) Can't get good shot at rear most bolt.
4) Cordless, battery powered 19.2 drill so maybe not enough torque to drill well....suggestions.

Have tried heating 2-3 times each and also hit it with PB Blaster. Any and all help is appreciated at this point....I am out of ideas and not wanting to take it to someone...too much $$

Please and thanks in advance for any and all ideas!!

call your local machine shop and ask if they know of anyone who does mobile tap extracting. There is a guy near me that comes out and uses some sonic pulse thing to disintegrate broken off taps and EZ outs.

you are going to have a very hard time fixing this without pulling the motor at least up high enough that you can get straight at it. if you have a decent engine hoist this can be done without removing the trans from the engine.

also throw away all your HF ez outs and get some good ones, they're just going to keep breaking.

I made myself plenty of room, took off the motor mount frame pedestal bracket and motor mount. Pulled the battery battery box and alternator. Took the condenser, dryer (with bracket) and hoses for my AC and flipped it on top of the motor (valve cover) and tied it up out of the way.

I was lucky/unlucky and was replacing my radiator at the same time anyway, which made getting the condenser out fairly easy.

I actually drilled one broken bolt through from the bottom and decided it wasn't the best approach for the other two.

Used a scissors jack and a block of wood on the pan bolts to jack up the engine. I had a good right angle drill ( Makita) and used Cobalt drill bits.

My son had a good idea, we first drilled all the way through the broken off bolts, then sprayed a penetrating oil rust dissolver behind the bolts and let it sit over night.

My son busted an easy out off in the other side trying to get the broken exhaust studs out. I actually drilled through the broken off easy out with a Cobalt drill bit. It wasn't easy, I had to resharpen the bit every quarter inch or so.

The Cobalt drill bits drilled through the broken off motor mount bolts fairly easily. Drilling the broken easy out was a lot harder, but doable.

I really hate easy outs, about half the time they turn into a project bigger than the original problem. The easy out my son snapped off was a Snap On tool, even with the good ones you have to know when to quit and try another approach.

I used a mild Loc Tite on the replacement bolts for the motor mounts, just so if I ever have to get them out of there again, they may be sticky but they won't be bonded or frozen with rust.

This is why they tend to break:

From Jon Kelley aka 5-90 @ www.kelleyswip.com
　
　
This is a known issue.

1) Unless you're going to get silly with the skinny pedal, 2xSAE8 screws on one side won't be a huge problem. You'd be better off with three, but if you don't get silly you'll be okeh.

2) The Brown Dog engine mounts use two or three additional holes on each side, and spread the mount/clamping force over more of the block. This is invariably a good idea, and I'll probably be doing it as I refit my 88.

3) The primary reason that the screws snap is because, sometimes, the screw holes in the block aren't drilled & tapped deeply enough. This causes the screw to bottom out in the hole, so you end up torquing against the bottom of the hole instead of stretching the screw (as you're supposed to do. Not your fault - you aren't doing anything wrong.) The screw is not stretched properly, and the head is not butted up against the bracket, so there's some room to move there. Vibration then causes wear cycles on the screw, which generally leads to rupture.

The easy/cheap fix? When you replace the screws (3/8"-16x1.25", as I recall,) put two flat washers under the head before you screw it into the hole.

The check? Take a feeler gage (.003" to .005") and try to slide it under the head of the screw. You'll be able to get under the corners (look at the hex head, and you'll see that the surfaces curve toward each other slightly) if it's a standard hex head - if it's a flanged hex head, you should not be able to get under the head anywhere. If you can slip the gage under the head, you have a problem. If you can touch the shank of the screw, you have a big problem!

In no case should you reuse the screws after you take them out - they'll be stressed under the head, and you'll have a significant reduction in strength. Replace them outright, putting washers under the head as I mentioned before. The washers will make up for the slight lack of depth in the hole (two of them will be about 0.125" or so,) and allow the screw to be preloaded properly.