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MAIN BEARING REMOVAL IN CHASSIS WITH CRANK

lokiraccoon

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ohio
any advise on how to get the top ones out.. and back in lol? have all caps loosened but and was able to get it to come out like 3/4in but cant get anything in there to push it the rest of the way.. need advise from someone whose done it!!! PLEASE HELP
 
I havent done it on a 4.0, but i have done it on other motors quite a bit. you should be able to get them out. obviously, they're only going to come out one way. the bent tab has to come ouut, so tap it from the other side. generally a flathead screwdriver is goot for tapping it free, then i take a small prybar and go on the other side and tap it or pry it out, being EXTREMELY careful not to ding the crank journal. I know there's enough play in the crank once all the main caps are removed to get them out.
 
I will have to try pry bar. I know it only comes out one way and its started, I just cant get anything safely in there to push anymore. I tried pulling the other side with pliers but couldn't get it to budge
 
I recommend using a piece of thick (say 20 thou thinner than the bearing shell, or so - maybe about 16-14ga?) brass sheet stock as a punch to drive it out. That way, even if you miss a little, you aren't going to scratch the crankshaft.

Scratch the crankshaft even a little and you will not really improve the quality of your day.

edit: the main bearing with the thrust bearing (#3? #4? I forget) is really going to suck.
 
you can make the tool from a cotter pin, a flat head nail or small bolt.
The shannk fits in the crank oil hole and head protrudes slightly but no more than the thicknessof the bearing. Just rotate the crank and the bearing shell comes right out.
or you could go to Miller tools item 3059A5 and buy it.
Joe
Miller Tools C-3059A Crankshaft Upper Main Bearing Remover / Installer ID/SKU: MSTC-3059AYour Price: $69.82

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</DIV>Miller Tools C-3059A Crankshaft Upper Main Bearing Remover / Installer ID/SKU: MSTC-3059AYour Price: $69.82

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edit: the main bearing with the thrust bearing (#3? #4? I forget) is really going to suck.
#3

or you could go to Miller tools item 3059A5 and buy it.
Joe
LOL. $70 for something a good sized cotter pin would work great for. IIRC the FSM even recommends it.

You can drop the crank a good bit with out causing an issue. Even 1/16" would help a lot. Loosen front and main caps just enough to support the rear and front of the crank. Remove the 2-6 caps and start removing the bearings. If you are spinning them out with the crank make sure you turn the crank in the correct direction as there is a small key on one side of the bearing.
 
Question....I'm going to drop my oil pan to 1. weld some baffles into the bottom of it and 2. install a new high flow oil pump. Why I'm down there should I just retorqe the rod bearings or is replacing them? I don't want to borrow trouble from my 266xxx mile 4.0, but I want to be proactive in seeing how I can keep it running without having to pull the motor out. It doesnt knock or use oil or smoke. It has the normal chatter up top that from what I understand in the norm for this motor with that mileage?????
 
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