Engine having dry starts every time its cranked?

xj_maniac_newb · May 4, 2013

So on my 4 banger (2.5l 4 cylinder) xj i've been getting a dry start EVERY TIME i crank the damn jeep up. It'll clack clack clack increasing with the RPM's for about 30 seconds and then it'll go away like it was never there. I tried changing the oil and filter (was past due anyways) and it did nothing to stop the dry starts. What could this be? I had a wix filter before the oil change and went with the Mopar filter this time. The dry starts occurred when i had the wix on as well. I've ran out of things to do besides pulling the head and checking everything out. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Runnin'OnEmpty · May 5, 2013

I'll bet you have a clogged oil pump pick-up screen.
Not familiar with the Belch-Fire fours, but maybe
you're lucky and can remove the oil pan fairly easily.

The screen and pan bottom will have to be cleaned
out.

four_shot · May 5, 2013

Could be the lifters. They may be bleeding down.

joe_peters · May 5, 2013

Runnin'OnEmpty said:
I'll bet you have a clogged oil pump pick-up screen.
Not familiar with the Belch-Fire fours, but maybe
you're lucky and can remove the oil pan fairly easily.

The screen and pan bottom will have to be cleaned
out.

Likely this, or the oil pump is losing its prime.

Pull the pan, if the screen is clean, and the pickup tube is tight in the oil pump, then replace the pump and pickup both.

Don't forget to re-torque the crank and rod bearing cap bolts.

xj_maniac_newb · May 5, 2013

four_shot said:
Could be the lifters. They may be bleeding down.

I've been told this by someone else as well, Is there any way to check the lifters besides actually tearing the top end down and looking at them?

joe_peters said:
Likely this, or the oil pump is losing its prime.

Pull the pan, if the screen is clean, and the pickup tube is tight in the oil pump, then replace the pump and pickup both.

Don't forget to re-torque the crank and rod bearing cap bolts.

That's gonna be fun. If nothing else i'll have a reason to replace the oil pan gasket with a nice felpro one. Gonna be fun buying a new OEM oil pump from the dealer if that is the case. Hell would probably be smart to do a rebuild while I'm at it. That's why i love the little 4 banger, costs of a rebuild kit are relatively low compared to other motors.

techno1154 · May 5, 2013

four_shot said:
Could be the lifters. They may be bleeding down.

I would put my money on this. Try some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) for a few hundred miles to help clean things up. If that do not help then it's time to pull the head. By-the-way, you could pull the valve cover and take a look at things under there like excessively loose rocker arms, rocker arms that do not sit properly or just plain worn out arms and push rods.

heyhar · May 5, 2013

Which way is the oil filter oriented? On my '92, the filter is pointing up, almost completely upside-down. Later on, they changed it to horizontal, like on my '96. The '92 always gave a death-rattle-like sound when fired up, till I wised up and stopped using the orange filters. I use the Purolator L30001, which is the number for a variety of Ford engines, from a Pinto to a 5.0. They hold more oil, and have a better anti-drainback valve in them, which, at least on my '92, completely stopped the death-rattle, even though it's rarely used. It can sit for a month, and it fires right up, no rattles or taps, has the best oil pressure it's ever had, and all that with over 200k on the clock...

xj_maniac_newb · May 5, 2013

techno1154 said:
I would put my money on this. Try some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) for a few hundred miles to help clean things up. If that do not help then it's time to pull the head. By-the-way, you could pull the valve cover and take a look at things under there like excessively loose rocker arms, rocker arms that do not sit properly or just plain worn out arms and push rods.

Just had the valve cover off when i did the oil change to change the valve cover gasket. 2 of the rocker arms were a little loose, but they were that way around a year ago before this ever stopped happening.

heyhar said:
Which way is the oil filter oriented? On my '92, the filter is pointing up, almost completely upside-down. Later on, they changed it to horizontal, like on my '96. The '92 always gave a death-rattle-like sound when fired up, till I wised up and stopped using the orange filters. I use the Purolator L30001, which is the number for a variety of Ford engines, from a Pinto to a 5.0. They hold more oil, and have a better anti-drainback valve in them, which, at least on my '92, completely stopped the death-rattle, even though it's rarely used. It can sit for a month, and it fires right up, no rattles or taps, has the best oil pressure it's ever had, and all that with over 200k on the clock...

I'm pretty sure mine is orientated horizontally, but it'd probably be wise i go look again. I have a dead awful memory.

joe_peters · May 5, 2013

If you need to replace your oil pump go with a Melling. A high-volume, if available for the 2.5, but their standard volume should do the job.

You don't need a high pressure oil pump.

xj_maniac_newb · May 6, 2013

joe_peters said:
If you need to replace your oil pump go with a Melling. A high-volume, if available for the 2.5, but their standard volume should do the job.

You don't need a high pressure oil pump.

Where can you buy a Melling besides ordering online? I was wondering what brand would be best.

joe_peters · May 6, 2013

xj_maniac_newb said:
Where can you buy a Melling besides ordering online? I was wondering what brand would be best.

Advance Auto Parts, most any parts store--might have to order it overnight.

xj_maniac_newb · May 6, 2013

joe_peters said:
Advance Auto Parts, most any parts store--might have to order it overnight.

Perfect, i can use my friends discount. Thank you.

Engine having dry starts every time its cranked?

xj_maniac_newb

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