I cant get any of my power windows to work. I can get the door locks to respond but the windows wont work at all. Its an 89 xj. It has been a project vehicle and i havent messed with it at all as far as electrical goes. Where is the fuse located at and are there any suggestions i might try? I find it hard to believe that all the windows have went out at the same time. They used to work. The motors are shot and the glass will fall in the doors if rolled down too far but i was at least able to get power to them before. Imjust want to get the windows up for the ti e being until i can replace the motors or the doors. Thanks in advance
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
Power windows?
- Thread starter bails85
- Start date
heshhash
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Proctor, MN
spot 12 (or maybe 16 depending on which panel you have) in fuse panel should be a 30a breaker for the windows. its under dash by brake pedal. start there~
8Mud
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Germany
Could be as simple as the drivers side motor is hung up and you have the lock out kid safety switch in the wrong position.
The clips that hold the connector onto the switch assembly in the door are junk. The plug may have come loose.
The wiring is kind of an afterthought, it runs atypically. Much of it is just laying under the carpet and crosses over the hump near the gas pedal.
Not a bad idea to pull the seat out and check the wiring under the carpet anyway, it stays wet there from tracking in rain, snow etc and the splices turn green and rot.
I've refreshed the the motors and cables before with some reasonable results. If the cable/spring isn't broken or the teeth on the drive sprocket aren't stripped, you may be able to oil up the cable and blow out the trash. Lube the drive gear and clean the trash out of the rubber guide extension and may get it to working again. I grease the cable/coil/spring (whatever you want to call it), and make sure the rubber tube extension for the cable guide is laying in the sweet spot, if it is laying wrong and not tied down, it can bind. I pack the rubber extension with Lithium grease, the inside of the rubber/plastic tube guide extension gets raw from years of wear, rough and sticky.
I've refreshed half a dozen window assemblies and had them work well enough. I also pop the door panels at the junk yard and look for a new looking window assemblies. I've found some near new.
Like mentioned, the circuit breaker may be loose or maybe it had been kicked and fallen out, though I believe (but am not sure) the door locks and the window motor run from the same circuit breaker.
The ground, if I remember correctly, is behind the drivers side kick panel about in the middle. I may be wrong, it has been awhile since I've been in there.
The windows only work with the key on, the door lock with the key on or off. So it is likely the window power goes through the ignition switch.
Twice now I've bundled (spliced together) the power seat hot wire with the window hot wire and added a another ground or two. The windows then work with the key off and seem to move a lot faster.
The clips that hold the connector onto the switch assembly in the door are junk. The plug may have come loose.
The wiring is kind of an afterthought, it runs atypically. Much of it is just laying under the carpet and crosses over the hump near the gas pedal.
Not a bad idea to pull the seat out and check the wiring under the carpet anyway, it stays wet there from tracking in rain, snow etc and the splices turn green and rot.
I've refreshed the the motors and cables before with some reasonable results. If the cable/spring isn't broken or the teeth on the drive sprocket aren't stripped, you may be able to oil up the cable and blow out the trash. Lube the drive gear and clean the trash out of the rubber guide extension and may get it to working again. I grease the cable/coil/spring (whatever you want to call it), and make sure the rubber tube extension for the cable guide is laying in the sweet spot, if it is laying wrong and not tied down, it can bind. I pack the rubber extension with Lithium grease, the inside of the rubber/plastic tube guide extension gets raw from years of wear, rough and sticky.
I've refreshed half a dozen window assemblies and had them work well enough. I also pop the door panels at the junk yard and look for a new looking window assemblies. I've found some near new.
Like mentioned, the circuit breaker may be loose or maybe it had been kicked and fallen out, though I believe (but am not sure) the door locks and the window motor run from the same circuit breaker.
The ground, if I remember correctly, is behind the drivers side kick panel about in the middle. I may be wrong, it has been awhile since I've been in there.
The windows only work with the key on, the door lock with the key on or off. So it is likely the window power goes through the ignition switch.
Twice now I've bundled (spliced together) the power seat hot wire with the window hot wire and added a another ground or two. The windows then work with the key off and seem to move a lot faster.
