1996 XJ intermitent starting issue

OK I just got a 1996 cherokee xj 4.0 auto 2wd.My issue i started to notice is sometimes when i go to start it it kind of acts like the timing is advanced and cranks slow and when it starts it idles rough like a missfire for a few seconds or if i give it some slight revs it idles ok.while i am cranking it will suddenly do that normal crank for a second then jump and crank slow like above statement.No codes set.My question is has anybody had this issue? I was going to try a cam sensor first then go for the PITA crank sensor.Any ideas?

Begin with some basic maintenance. Are all the tune-up parts and the coil fresh ?

Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, and from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, scrape, and clean until shiny, the cable/wire ends, and whatever they bolt to. Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad connections, or poor grounds.

Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.

Typical voltage drop maximums:
• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+ stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)

Sounds kind of like a sticky IAC. They get full of junk and get sticky.

Low voltage or charging issues can also screw them up. The IAC needs all the juice it can get to function during cranking. If it doesn't open you are getting little to no air to the motor without pushing the gas pedal.

One way to check, is to push the gas pedal a little, about 1/8 pedal and then see how it starts. If you let little air into the TB this way and it starts good, low voltage and/or junk in IAC is likely your issue.

When my alternator was going I'd have IAC issues at start up, it would pop and idle very poorly if at all. When my battery was weak I had the same issues.

I've also had to clean my IAC a few times, especially in very cold weather, the gunk buildup in the IAC gets thicker when it's cold.

Pull the distributor cap and inspect it and the rotor.....8mud has a good idea on the check the battery connections, and the voltage drop at the battery with a volt meter while someone else cranks it. All good prior suggestions below too!!!!