• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Putco Headlight Harness Question.

Kingkong0192

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New Milford, CT
I've constantly seen people complaining that the Putco harness is junk, the relays are junk, the crimps don't come tight enough, etc etc, the list goes on.

My question is if i were to build my own harness where would i buy the H4 Headlight adapter? (The thing i plug my H4 bulb into?)

Also where would i buy the Adapter that goes from the putco harness into the stock harness so it can act as a trigger?

I circled both of the parts i'm going to need to buy. (I'm also going to need to buy the adapter to the left of the right circle.

I was planning on simply running the entire thing out of 12 gauge wire. Nothing else. Just all 12 gauge wire. Think this is plenty enough to run 100 watt bulbs, or should i step it all up to 10 gauge?

Oh, and for the relays. I've never used a relay. How do i even buy these? What do i look for? Where would i buy the adapter thing that the relay would plug into?

I also plan on running two inline fuses on each low and high beam just for added safety.


647940EA-A887-4E88-8AC4-42029266C376-1827-000000CDA4383CCF-1_zps03920232.jpg
 
I get my relays off of Ebay. You can get Hella 5-pin weatherproof relays that come with the relay and socket pre-wired with 12ga. wire for $20 or so. Inline ATO fuses can be found anywhere.

Like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290821433053?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

You might try PM'ing NAXJA vendor Prime 4x4 and see if he can make you up some relays. They're not listed on his site but I bet he could do it. He also carries the inline fuses.

Edit: Here's some links for H4 connectors:

http://www.comagination.com/parts.htm

http://www.rallylights.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=57
 
Last edited:
Search the Google.net, many companies specialize in automotive connectors.

The Putco wire harness is OK for what you pay for it, I have one that is 4 years old and one that is one year old. The Putco relays are crappy, but good used Honda relays fit in your pocket.
 
Mine got wet and ruined the first month or two after I installed them. I replaced the relays and packed everything that was exposed with a ton of dielectric grease this time, and made sure the relays were mounted to drain water :laugh3:, not to fill up with water :twak:

I hope that fixes the problem, but if not, I will replace the relays and sockets with the dirt cheap cost wise old Renix era ones that last for decades.:laugh3:
 
You can buy the H4 lamp sockets at Advance auto. They have them in the back at my local store. YMMV You don't really have to use a plug on a relay. It just makes it nicer, and allows for a cleaner install, and easier relay replacement should one fail. 12AWG wire should be more than plenty (That's what I used to build mine). Those cheap ass premade ones use a smaller wire than that. I suggest using some sort of sealing at all splices, and or connectors whether it be self sealing heat shrink, heat seal crimp connectors, or liquid electrical tape (regular electrical tape will do nothing to seal out moisture). You don't want moisture to be able to wick it's way back up the wire. Make sure you use weather proof fuse holders, or your fuses will corrode in a matter of months, and give you issues. There is a good write up on how to build your harness on GoJeep's website (search GoJeep here on NAXJA and you should find a link). I buy almost all my electrical supplies from a company called DelCity They have good prices, and had excellent customer service on the one time I got a defective part (and I was actually able to fix that part, and still use it). As far as the part you have circled that's supposed to plug into the OEM plug? Don't need it. Cut the OEM plug off and directly splice the wires together. You'll have a way more reliable connection than using that thing.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top