Broke the front shackle bolt

The title says it all. The rear spring is now out (I had to use a hacksaw to cut through the remaining bolt in order to get the spring out) so I have access. The hacksaw ensured that the end of the bolt is nice and flat but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get a drill in here to get the rest out.

Any tips or tricks?

if it comes to it...

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop...ep-XJ-Rear-Spring-Hanger-Bracket-p-20685.html

tjmotter said:

The title says it all. The rear spring is now out (I had to use a hacksaw to cut through the remaining bolt in order to get the spring out) so I have access. The hacksaw ensured that the end of the bolt is nice and flat but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get a drill in here to get the rest out.

Any tips or tricks?

Click to expand...

1st we need to clarify! You said front shackle bolt. XJ's don't have front shackles, the shackles are on the rear. I'm sure you meant to say front bolt on leaf spring hanger correct???

Boss Cherokee said:

1st we need to clarify! You said front shackle bolt. XJ's don't have front shackles, the shackles are on the rear. I'm sure you meant to say front leaf spring hanger bolt correct???

Click to expand...

Correct. The bolt that connects the front of the leaf spring snapped. The bolt wasn't totally siezed and came out about 1/8 of an inch but snapped in the middle. Obviously, the leaf spring wouldn't come out with half a bolt in it but I was able to get a hacksaw behind the bushing and saw the bolt off to remove the spring. Now I need to figure out how to get the rest of the bolt out.

thx

Ok I thought that's what you meant! That's not going to be easy but not totally undoable. I had one on an early XJ. If I remember correctly I WD40'd the hell out of it for couple days stuck a punch in thru the outer hole and shocked it to break any rust welds. I then drilled it with a right angle drill and eased it out. If you can get a left hand drill bit then it may even come out while drilling. Good luck!

When you get it out and replace it put antisieze on the bolt shaft too, they like to attach themselves to the bushing steel sleeves too!

Boss Cherokee said:

When you get it out and replace it put antisieze on the bolt shaft too, they like to attach themselves to the bushing steel sleeves too!

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will do. thanks for the suggestion!

i would use heat and a pair of vise grips to try and get rest bolt out unless its cut flush then i would get a left hand drill bit

I hear what your saying ands that's what I'd try 1st. However, I don't know if he has access to a torch or any other source of heat. My solutions a opinion that is based on the basic skills and limited tools. I was just trying to give him the sure remedy because even heating it does not always loosen it just as shocking it with a hammer blow may not work either. The dousing of WD40 over several days will work, if he has the patience and time!

were you able to turn the bolt? and it just got stuck in the bushing sleeve?

if so just can a small dremel with a cut off wheel and grind a flat spot in the stud and back it out with a long flat head screw drive...what i did when my bolt got stuck in the sleeve.

Outlander560 said:

were you able to turn the bolt? and it just got stuck in the bushing sleeve?

if so just can a small dremel with a cut off wheel and grind a flat spot in the stud and back it out with a long flat head screw drive...what i did when my bolt got stuck in the sleeve.

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The bolt was turning and in fact, backed out about 1/8 of an inch (it wasn't siezed in the bushing sleeve). On a couple of turns I would get that deep groan noise from dry metal on metal contact. The thing was VERY tight and my 500ft.lb impact wrench wouldn't move it.

Unfortunately, with the leaf spring in place I could find no way to get penetrating oil in there. I was able to get it rotating with a breaker bar but it was still tough.

The bolt was cut close to flush (I had to squeeze a hacksaw behind it so that I could pull the old spring out of the way) and I have been dousing it every 4 hours with PB Blaster (going on two days now). I bought a 1ft long drill bit and an easy-out and plan to give the penetrating oil a couple of more days to soak before I drill and apply the easy-out. I don't have an oxy torch but I have a propane torch that I will use to heat it up before trying the easy-out approach. If this doesn't work (it is hard to get turning leverage with an easy-out), my back up plan is to hold a nut up to the remaining bolt and use my MIG welder to weld the two together from inside the nut so that I can get a wrench on it.

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I will update the post after trying the easy-out approach.

SOOO happy you posted this!! 3 days of doucing with PB blaster coupled with a red hot bolt should have shaken this thing loose but when your easy-out snaps it is really nice to have options.

Poly Performance here I come.

thx!!
Todd

VAhasnoWAVES said:

if it comes to it...

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop...ep-XJ-Rear-Spring-Hanger-Bracket-p-20685.html

Click to expand...

For anyone looking to attempt this, it appears that Jeep uses "distorted-thread hex locknuts" for the backside of the shackle.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=m2nmlm

These are designed to resist vibration and make it really tough to get a bolt like this out. The best option appears to rent or buy a really big impact wrench (3/4" 1400ft. lb) before attempting this because if they break, they are going to be a bear to get out.

3 days of soaking with penetrating oil coupled with heat just wasn't enough.

HTH
Todd

Sounds like your on the right path but at the base of the spring mount there is a hole towards the inside rail that pionts right at the busted bolt you can apply heat and Lube through it I Always start the PB treatment about a week before I start working on my stuff.

had that with both rear spring hangers on my 90 when I was adding my lift, found a post on here that said to cut out bottom of hamger and get a wrench up in there on the bolt, since mine were no longer welded to the hanger it was my only option, anyway, worked like a charm, I then welded a new piece of plate to repair the cvutout. good luck

Generally (if you're replacing the springs anyways) it's best to cut the leaf eye off the leaf, then cut the bushing sleeve, remove the rubber, and cut the inner bushing sleeve. That way you have a lot more to grab with something after heating/lubing/cooling/heating/hammering what's left.