Convert 2001 D30 to 5x5.5 with JK hubs?

Hi everyone! New to the forum. Been reading up.

I just picked up this guy:


If I want to convert the front axle to 5x5.5, do you think I could just swap out the bearing assembly from a JK?


For the rear, I would look at an 8.8 swap.

Thanks!

Jk is 5 on 5

You'd need to swap out the rotors and possibly calipers as well - and the calipers may imply swapping the knuckles.

Actually, what's to stop you swapping the knuckles, calipers, etc plus putting in Super D30 balljoints? IIRC, that's what the JK uses.

There are 3 measurements that will make or break this idea:
- knuckle mounting surface to wheel/brake rotor mounting surface offset
- knuckle mounting surface to ujoint yoke back offset (machined surface of unit bearing flange to back face)
- depth of unit bearing from back face to the spot where the big washer and axle nut sit

The first needs to be right to avoid having brake rotor issues. Swapping to a different rotor may fix that - also make sure the unit bearing wheel flange will fit inside the hat of the rotor if you are trying to keep original rotors.

The second needs to be right to avoid having ujoint binding issues when you turn the wheel. The common WJ steering/brake swap fixes this using a 1/4" thick weld-on spacer that goes on the mounting surface on the knuckle. Basically, when assembled, the center of the ujoint cross MUST be almost exactly on the axis of the two balljoints.

The third affects your stub axle choices. If the depth there is wrong, you either won't be able to achieve proper unit bearing preload because the nut will bottom out on the axle before it's tight enough, or you won't be able to get the nut on far enough to use a cotter pin on the nut retainer.

Re: Convert 2001 D30 to 5x5 with JK hubs?

WTF_LOL said:

Jk is 5 on 5

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Whoops. You're right. Well, I'm trying to be able to run JK wheels, so the question remains. Anyone know if the hubs are interchangeable?

--Robert

kastein said:

You'd need to swap out the rotors and possibly calipers as well

Click to expand...

Since the bolt circle would be changing from 4.5 to 5, I imagine ovaling the holes 1/4" would allow the original rotors to be retained.

EDIT Edit:

I am thinking they will be close and Kasteins assertions are good things to look at.
My guess is that the abs sensor/tone ring in each unit bearing is going to throw the dimensions off to work with the XJ d30 stubs

Oh and just to add the JK Unit Bearings are kinda crappy compared to th XJ...non serviceable and ball bearings in the JK. Also a bit more expensive. May want to consider an adapter instead?

And what about the rear axle?

Adapters on all four corners is a much better idea.
Hit me up if you need a link.

"Oh and just to add the JK Unit Bearings are kinda crappy compared to th XJ...non serviceable and ball bearings in the JK. Also a bit more expensive. May want to consider an adapter instead?"
As opposed to the serviceable xj unit bearings?

just run spacers.... JK wheels have more backspacing than XJ wheels which means the tires will most likely rub. spacers will cure this and the bolt pattern issue

zachandandy said:

"Oh and just to add the JK Unit Bearings are kinda crappy compared to th XJ...non serviceable and ball bearings in the JK. Also a bit more expensive. May want to consider an adapter instead?"
As opposed to the serviceable xj unit bearings?

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The late model XJ's are ball bearing and non serviceable as well.

adapters seem like a much simpler solution

I've heard of some using WJ unit bearings to keep the 5x5 pattern when doing steering swap.

zachandandy said:

"Oh and just to add the JK Unit Bearings are kinda crappy compared to th XJ...non serviceable and ball bearings in the JK. Also a bit more expensive. May want to consider an adapter instead?"
As opposed to the serviceable xj unit bearings?

Click to expand...

Actually the JK unit bearings are Much better then the XJ/TJ/YJ style.

Major reason, is that you can run them withOUT a outer stub axle and they will not separate and fall apart.

But no you can not run a JK unit bearing on a XJ outer.
JK stub 6.3
TJ/XJ Stub - 6.1

Unless you start spacing the bearing out etc, as mentioned.

Again, isnt this the same as doing a WJ knuckle swap which has been covered? And the ford 8.8 also isnt the right bolt pattern. I agree, just get adapters, youll need them for the 8.8 anyways as it is a bit narrower.

What are you trying to accomplish? The JK is 5 on 5, an 8.8 out of an explorer is still 5 on 4.5, and an 8.8 out of an F-150 or bronco is 5 on 5.5 and wider than the cherokee axles (or explorer 8.8).

RWKHausSupply said:

Actually the JK unit bearings are Much better then the XJ/TJ/YJ style.

Major reason, is that you can run them withOUT a outer stub axle and they will not separate and fall apart.

But no you can not run a JK unit bearing on a XJ outer.
JK stub 6.3
TJ/XJ Stub - 6.1

Unless you start spacing the bearing out etc, as mentioned.

Click to expand...

JKS 1/4" spacer, and JK after market shafts(several still use 1310 u-joints)... But then you still run into rotor issues.... Think this would be more of an upgrade for someone that has done a WJ swap and wants to run 32 spline outers?

Swap a JK D44/D30 front and JK D44 rear and you got your 5 on 5. In case you are wondering what a JK 44 rear and front look like on a late model...

run a jk 5 on 5 hub setup and rotors on the driver side front with spacers and aftermarket outer, renix era hub /brakes on the front passenger , ford 5 on 5.5 8.8 with drums on pass rear and ford 5 on 4.5 with discs on the driver side rear and get back to us. Get the same brand tires with all the different bolt patterns.

blondejoncherokee said:

run a jk 5 on 5 hub setup and rotors on the driver side front with spacers and aftermarket outer, renix era hub /brakes on the front passenger , ford 5 on 5.5 8.8 with drums on pass rear and ford 5 on 4.5 with discs on the driver side rear and get back to us. Get the same brand tires with all the different bolt patterns.

Click to expand...

This makes almost as much sense as asking how d30 brakes do with 39s, I approve

kastein said:

This makes almost as much sense as asking how d30 brakes do with 39s, I approve

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LMAO !
After that thread I sold the 37" toyos, around 96 pounds each....I can stop like crazy with all WJ stuff and 36 bias iroks (65 pounds each/35.5" tall, old pro comps where 33.5" tall as a 35" tire and weighed 65 pounds each ). there are a couple guys in the sierra chapter than have ran heavy 37s like the toys and 39 bias iroks(39" bias iroks only weigh 76 pounds each, that might be less than some 35s...) on a 30 . a few still do....Allen is still running his 3.55s with no breakage too...