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951 kreations build stretched wheel base

glamisdunin

NAXJA Forum User
So we built some rear fenders on one of my xj's recently and they were designed for a stretched wheel base for when we make our mild 4 link kit. Untill i have enough funding however i have decided to venture into a leaf spring flip. To put the tire closer to center of wheel well. Its not finished yet i still need to finish the cage for shock locations and design a traction bar to prevent an axle wrap issue from having the soft side of the spring forward. Before i recieve any comments on how you woyld not recommend this this is only temporary. This xj is an amc model 1990 4.0 with 242 t case. In the past i had an issue for not converting to an sye kit and this spring flip has helped with this issue. My wheel base is now105.5 inches i have stock leaf pack with add a leafs we built our shackles and shackle mount will tie into d pillar of the cage when completed. I used a stock driveline from an 86 4 cyl. 4 wheel drive manual which was about 5 inches longer and magically fit perfectly in its new home. Hope you guys like the build so far. This jeep is only one of 5 that we are currently building.

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:doh: aside from the d35 rear end, whats uo with some of those welds? looks like youre just going tack-tack-tack instead of laying constant beads,. I can see the craters in each tack, id be worried about penetration.
 
:doh: aside from the d35 rear end, whats uo with some of those welds? looks like youre just going tack-tack-tack instead of laying constant beads,. I can see the craters in each tack, id be worried about penetration.

Those welds look like really hot tig welds to me?:dunno:
 
When you have a powerful enough welder that can penetrate the steal with each one and make a great looking weld verses a weld that does not look good that is consistant yea it works and i am a certified welder and have been welding for 8 years since i was 17. If i was welding heavy equipment like i have done alot of then the welds would look different. Continuous beads have no eye appeal and making it look close to a tig with a mig is what i was going for. I would like to see your welds and how they look
 
No sye untill the 4 link is designed and i have the correct length driveshaft made we were just fooling around with a bunch of the spare rear drivelines we had laying around and if fit perfect enough to get by untill the axle swap is done. It wont be leaf sprung or offroad much before the changes are made
 
Doesnt matter if it looks like a stack of dimes, tack tack tack is weaker. Sinse you asked, heres some of my welds.
mig:
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tig:
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</internet weld critique>
 
stitch welding is weaker but on 1/8" or less with a hot gun it will hold
oregon motor sports do all their cages that way and ive seen them hold up to some bad wrecks it just a way to get welds to look good if you cant run a bead i only do that on thin sheet metal and to do it properly you need to stack them tighter 60% should be covered
and it works best with er70s-6 wire and staight argon if you are only going for looks
and if you want it to look tig welded use a tig and i am also certified 13 years and to aws rail transport standards and for some of my work i built the blue sammy pictured above
 
I love Internet welding pissing matches. A constant bead would be stronger, but I doubt those welds will break. You could run full beads inside the shackle and go for looks on the outside?
 
:doh: aside from the d35 rear end, whats uo with some of those welds? looks like youre just going tack-tack-tack instead of laying constant beads,. I can see the craters in each tack, id be worried about penetration.

Those welds look like really hot tig welds to me?:dunno:

You should get your eyes checked, as those are definately tack-tack-tacks!

I dont feel comfortable with those rear shackle hangers, but I wish you the best of luck!


I'd listen to these guys. I'm no welder but i've seen enough to know that those don't look right. Hope i'm wrong for your sake....
 
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