Differential setup tools

what tools or tool kits are you using to setup R&P in typical jeep axles (d30-d60, ford8"-9") that can be recommended?
Rgds.

depends on the axle depends on the tools. but a general set of tool would be:

-vernier caliper
-brass punch
-ball-pean hammer
-dead blow hammer
-magnetic based dial indicator (or vice grip i like the magnetic one better)
-ft.lb torque wrench
-inch pound dial indicating torque wrench but you can use a beam style (check rotating torque on pinion preload)
-seal puller
-bearing race punch set
-bearing puller
-press to set bearings on (shop press is nice)
It varies from axle to axle on what size cylinder you can use to press the bearings on
-transmission jelly (use it for setup with the new bearings not thick just a thin coat)
-Gear compound for pattern check
For axles that use a crush collar for bearing pre-load instead of the d30s shims stack use a torque multipler which is basically a big ratchet with a planetary gear in it to multiply the torque to collapse the collar
-On top of that a pinion yoke holder to hold the yoke still while you torque the pinion nut down

On top of all of that most if not all axles have tools that you can use to set pinion depth and backlash but those a pricey...the 8.8 set we got is 800 bucks

Thx for above info.
Would these tool kits be worth to have them - Diff setup tool kit & Pinion depth tool

The differential set up kit has pieces you will need, you may be able to get this kit together cheaper with a little work.
The yoke tool is super handy and you can make it yourself if you have a welder and drill-press..
The pinion depth tool is nice, time saving tool but you can get good results without it. It's the type of tool a person who does a lot of axle would want.
The one thing you want to have a lot is time and patience to do it right. Sometimes it goes quickly and other times a dozen or more attempts is what it takes. For us amateurs, it can take along time.

A carrier bearing puller kit can come in handy.
http://rndperformance.com/i-10400597-the-yukon-carrier-bearing-puller.html
A friend bought one used off Ebay, did a couple sets of axles and sold it for the same price, once he was finished.
Set up bearings are invaluable IMO

That kit looks complete(I like the fact they give you a brass punch for the bearing outer races, this will allow you to remove the races without damaging the housing)

Also, having the yoke holder is nice.

If you are going to set-up any Chryco 8.25's you will need the spanner wrench that goes in from the axle tube to set the BL

I made most of my own tools myself;

I made a yoke holder that "clamps" onto the outside of the yoke using two pieces of angle iron, (2) 1/2" bolts and welded a pipe onto one of the pieces of angle.

I made my own pinion depth tool, I use some various lengths of flat tool stock and my sliding calipers to measure the depth, just subtract the thickness of the tool stock to get the depth using the plunger on the sliding calipers.

I made my own brass punch out of a scrap piece of 3/4" brass rod I picked up from a machine shop

I made my own 8.25 spanner wrenches out of two 3' pieces of 1/2" pipe, two 36mm nuts(outside measurement) and two 1/2" drive short extensions. I welded the nuts to one end of the pipe and the extensions to the other side.

The only tools that I have ever had to buy is the "beam style" 0-60 inch pound torque wrench, 0-80lbs torque wrench, dial indicator/magnetic base, bearing race installers and sliding calipers.

It is a time to source the right tools then
Thx a lot for all the tips/info.
Rgds

This is the in/lb torque wrench I use. Already had it in my bike tool box.
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TW-...40121&sr=8-2&keywords=park+tool+torque+wrench

I prefer the dial type, this is what I use.


A lot more money but a better tool IMO.

Mnkyboy said:

I prefer the dial type, this is what I use.

A lot more money but a better tool IMO.

Click to expand...

Thats a nice torque wrench no doubt. However, since all pinion pre-loads give you a range to work inside of, the beam style is sufficient if you don't have the funds for a nice dial type. I have been using my beam style for many years and no issues

agreed^ i have used both styles the dial in/lb is easier to check the rotating torque..the beam style is a bit jumpy but again both have worked fine..just depends how much you plan on putting towards tools

If you are just doing your own gears once then I would suggest seeing if you can borrow or rent these tools. If you are planning to do gears for extra money then the tools will be a good investment. Get the best quality tools you can. There's nothing worse than screwing up a customer's bearings or even the ring gear because of the failure of a cheap tool. I don't use a pinion depth tool because I can determine pinion depth by reading the gear pattern much faster than using the tool. You can buy setup bearings but it is much cheaper to get a set of the cheapest bearings from your local parts store and use a drum sander to open up the inner diameter just enough they will slide on easily. You can do basically the same thing with the big pinion bearing cup, just sand down the outer diameter until it will easily slip into the housing. You can make a inner seal installation tool with a piece of thick all thread and some nuts and washers. Spend the money for a good digital vernier caliper and a dial indicator. These are the most important tools you will need and you don't want to skimp on these.

Hmm... No one mentioned a case spreader for Dana axles. Most the other stuff is covered. Magnetic base dial indicator is critical for backlash. Brass punches, seal driver set. If you are going to spend the money on the tools, and you think you'll do a bunch of jeeps, the case spreader and the yukon differential bearing puller are worth the $$$.

markw said:

Hmm... No one mentioned a case spreader for Dana axles. Most the other stuff is covered. Magnetic base dial indicator is critical for backlash. Brass punches, seal driver set. If you are going to spend the money on the tools, and you think you'll do a bunch of jeeps, the case spreader and the yukon differential bearing puller are worth the $$$.

Click to expand...

I use a case spreader where the carrier bearings are installed outside of the bearings (like in the case of a super 30). It can also be very useful for disassembling a diff that is kinda stuck together. Sometimes the carrier can be a biatch to get out without a spreader.

Yup, to get that .010 preload on the carrier bearings on a 44 or 60 or bigger the carrier spreader is a must. 30's not so much... I've pulled the caps off of 30's and literally had the carrier fall out.

markw said:

Yup, to get that .010 preload on the carrier bearings on a 44 or 60 or bigger the carrier spreader is a must. 30's not so much... I've pulled the caps off of 30's and literally had the carrier fall out.

Click to expand...

Not a must. in over a decade of doing gears, in everything from D30's to sami's to AAM11.5, etc. I think I have used my spreader about a dozen times.

These make more sense then a spreader


And in that time I have never (Never) have a gear set or bearing come back or get informed that my setup failed or such.

As for tools. I think there is no list for this guy or that guy and then a separate list for the pro. If you want to get it done without macgevering stuff and make shifting tools.

Bare min for specialty tool I would say you need: diff bearing puller kit (350$+), dial indicator with a mag or vise grip base(50$), (I prefer) metal mech caliper (50$), a good long punch (25$), bearing/shim driver like above (55$), long solid brass punch(25$), 8-10" long 1.75x.120 piece of tube, few (you will find these help alot if doing many different axles) inner - bearing body with no cage or rollers still, inch/lbs torque wrench(70$), 4lbs hammer and a reg hammer(not really specialty).

A press can be used to install bearings on to the pinion and carrier. I find it seats the bearings better and its faster/more effective to use the bearing body that fits over the item getting the bearing yet small enough to only hit the bearing inner body of the bearing needing to be installed, and the tube, and a 4lbs hammer. You get no bounce back like a press and you Know when its fully on.

As for the seal puller, a waste of money I found. Yeah I still buy em about ever few months for some reason. But the tips of the claw just bends or breaks or the body does, no matter whose I buy. Once the pinion is out, its MUCH easier and I think safer, to just use the large brass punch to knock the outer pinion bearing and seal out from inside the diff towards the pinion seal, with a 4lbs hammer, all at once. Unless your trying to reuse the small outer pinion bearing.

just some of my experiences.

I find that 9 times out of 10 I end up using a chisel around the edge to get the damn pinion seal out. The pullers always just pull through the metal without removing the seal.

thx a lot for all the tips - well noted.
For sure we'll go ahead with diff bearing puller kit (P22), case spreader, pinion depth tool & dial indicator with mag stand, inch/lbs torque wrench and the bearing/shim driver. The basic stuff are almost all on the shelf.
The budget will accommodate all above + some extras

RWKHausSupply said:

These make more sense then a spreader

And in that time I have never (Never) have a gear set or bearing come back or get informed that my setup failed or such.

Click to expand...

I just use a big brass punch to drive the races in when dropping the carrier in. The case spreader helps quite a bit when you don't have a 4lb hammer to beat the carrier in with. Mine's only 3lb, but my dead blow is the 4lb. It's even nicer to have the spreader when you pull the darn things. Yeah, I've got a big prybar and I can gorilla it out, but relieving preload helps quite a bit. Plus the book calls for .010 preload so I put it in. The shim drivers look like they'd be nice to have for ARB installs.

Mark

markw said:

I just use a big brass punch to drive the races in when dropping the carrier in. The case spreader helps quite a bit when you don't have a 4lb hammer to beat the carrier in with. Mine's only 3lb, but my dead blow is the 4lb. It's even nicer to have the spreader when you pull the darn things. Yeah, I've got a big prybar and I can gorilla it out, but relieving preload helps quite a bit. Plus the book calls for .010 preload so I put it in. The shim drivers look like they'd be nice to have for ARB installs.

Mark

Click to expand...

All of the D-30's I have done have the shims inbound of the carrier bearings. I have yet to see one with the shims between the outer races and the housing. Thus, I made a set of Timken set-up bearings and use those to get the BL and carrier pre-load correct.

I have seen D-44's both ways

All dana 30's after 06 as well as everything dana (that I know of) have outboard shims for the carrier. But the XJ was always inboard of the bearings.

As for setup bearings for carrier preload and BL. Not every bearing is exact, and it seems that out of the say 20 times I have used setup bearings to start a new install without a stock setup to start from, I would say 3-4 were not the same once real bearings were installed.