STARTing issue. researched, need a little help

96 cherokee country----4.0 auto. 4wd-----

went to start yesterday ( 20 degrees out :shiver and i turned the key, bells and whistles went on radio went on, but no crank. after about 4 or 5 turns vroooom, she started. drove to work and parked it for the day in the sun. left work and she started up. ran some errands, started uup another 3 or 4 times.

this morning i got up to go to work, and no dice. all bells and whistles and radio went on, but no crank. had my girlfriend jump the jeep with her car, no help.( she wasnt happy about that) . also tried the tap/bang method on the started while she turned key.

So im gonna go about it in this order when i get home from work.

-try starting in neutral
-adjust steering column ( maybe wiring is jacked up)
-switch starter relay with another relay
-clean battery/grounds
-bypass the nss

now heres where im asking for help..

Ive read countless posts on issues like this.

Is there anything im missing here besides replacing battery...starter and rebuilding NSS?

thanks in advance everyone!

sounds like nss i just went over that problem, cleaned it out and it works. if you turn ur key to on and jump the starter and it runs then best bet is nss. if dosent then could be starter. always check to see if the starter is geting the signal cause there are relays and switchs that will keep if from happening and with it being cold could be something sticking.

Cold weather related symptoms points to a wiring issue or a weak battery, usually a low voltage issue from:

• a failing battery
• a failing alternator
• dirty or loose wire connections
• internally corroded battery wires

Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, and from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, scrape, and clean until shiny, the cable/wire ends, and whatever they bolt to. Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad connections, or poor grounds.

Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then we have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.

Typical voltage drop maximums:
• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+ stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)

Test the output at the alternator. You should be measuring 13.8-14.4 volts. Load testing the alternator is still recommended.

Exchange the ASD relay with the Starter relay in the fuse box under the hood near the battery.

Wiggle the automatic transmission lever in both Park and Neutral while trying to start. If it starts, you need to clean or replace the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS).

Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap on the starter with a hammer. If the engine starts, you probably need a new starter.

Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.

1. Battery--start with the battery, have it load tested with a carbon-pile, 1/2 the CCA rating for 15 seconds without dropping below 10 volts.

2. Battery cables--clean BOTH ends of BOTH cables; perform a voltage drop test on BOTH cables--Google "voltage drop test".

3. Check for voltage to the starter solenoid when the key is in the "START" position.

Well i got home, turned the key and it started. Wtf.
I gues something froze or stuck up because of cold?

96xj-A-skwad said:

Well i got home, turned the key and it started. Wtf.
I gues something froze or stuck up because of cold?

Click to expand...

Ice? Frozen condensation?

Thats what im thinking. Just dont know where.

96xj-A-skwad said:

Thats what im thinking. Just dont know where.

Click to expand...

Next time warm it up with a hair dryer for 2-3 minutes on high.

Lol the starter? Or u makin a funny?

96xj-A-skwad said:

Lol the starter? Or u makin a funny?

Click to expand...

The starter. If it is ice, it will melt it. If it is a stuck part, dimensional issue at the cold temps it will warm it up. The idea is find out if warming it up repeatedly fixes the problem. or not, as a diagnostic tool.

Also works on heat soak tests of HV coils, fuel injectors, transmission solenoids (pulled) and the CPS to see if they are failing when they get too hot. Neat, easy diagnostic test!

The starter solenoid may be going bad. Or the carbon brushes may be loosing contact when too cold, too warn and now bad, but so far only when cold.

Also, the battery may be bad when too cold, and OK when warm. The idea is test each part for thermal issues!