Newb XJ Project, Need Advice & Tips

Hello all, been doing some research and loved this site.

I have a 2001 XJ that I'm going to start off small and cheap. This weekend will be putting on a 3" RC lift and 31x10.5R15 pro comp xtreme mud terrains on some aftermarket 15x8 wheels (not sure of the brand but they look good and were free from a friend of a friend). Also going to remove the rear sway bar and look into front sway bar disconnects, would like advice if this is needed.

I have had my XJ since 2004, kept it stock except for some semi-aggressive treads. Used it "offroad" almost every other weekend for the first couple of years I had it, but on mild stuff in Virginia like logging roads and getting to good trout fishing spots. Just back from a deployment (Army, Ft Lewis, Washington) and have some spare cash to upgrade the jeep now that I have another vehicle for a daily driver.

My rear leaf springs are in decent shape so I went with the add a leaf, but now I'm kinda second guessing it. Hate to put the wrong thing on right off the bat but already committed, hopefully works out. Are some shackles a viable option if the add a leaf doesn't increase the height enough?

Been looking very hard at the Powertrax Lock-Right locker for the rear, pretty good reviews and cost friendly. Is some sort of locker or limited-slip dif needed in the front axle? I've had no probs with my stock setup but haven't been on anything close to some of these trails in WA, they can get kinda extreme from what I've seen. However since I'm only running 31's its not like I'm going to be trying out the most difficult stuff (unless I'm feeling froggy that day) so thinking it would be overkill putting something aftermarket in the front.

I will be testing out my rig at Tahuya state forest to get a feel of the capabilities before trying out the more technical stuff. Used to be a pretty good technical offroad ATVer on my polaris 600 sportsman, afraid this might be a little different lol.

From what I know I shouldn't need a SYE or even a transfer case drop, also don't think I'll need longer brake lines with the 3" lift, if anybody has had different experiences please let me know.

I would greatly appreciate any and all advice and hope to one day add to this forum by helping out others once I gain some knowledge from the experienced offroaders on here!

Welcome to the site. Wow this is allot of info for a first post, so let see what can be done with it. First..... every guy on here has an experience or an opinion with every modification or product you can put on or do to a Cherokee. So take from this and learn. For instances, extended break lines. You can buy them or you can straighten the metal break line, re-drill the hold down clamp hole and for free ( 20 minutes of time ) have extended break lines. Lockers..... there are a a few types & set-ups and everyone likes theirs. I run an Aussie in the front D30 A Detroit in the rear D44. Its the set up I have & im good with it. So I would say keep reading, learn as much as you can about different set up's. What works what doesn't and little by little you will have a great rig. There is a ton of great info here on & in the NWC. There are also allot of great guys that will help you out all the way. So keep asking about stuff, learn as much as you can and come wheeling with us.

My 2 cents

Add-a-leaf will be a good start and level out with a Shakle if needed (get a full leaf if and when you go bigger.

I have a lunchbox locker in the rear of my 27spl 8.25 on 35s and I drive like an A hole. So you will be fine there.

Front lunchbox locker... I'm not a fan of. Seen lots of problems and broken carriers. So go full case if you can.

Full case will need a gear set up so you might wanna wait and see if you wanna go 33-35s or if you want to regear and all that. So you don't pay for a gear setup 2Xs

But with a rear locker and 31s you will be able to go far, so just hang out there and see what you wanna do in the long run.

As far as the SYE goes. Late models tend to need a Tcase drop or SYE 3-4inches
But you might get lucky, I ran RedJeep for years with 6inches of lift and no SYE with a 1in t case drop. (RedJeep wasan early model)

But just as a heads up an SYE is really nice because that tail cone on the t case always leaks and a lot of ppl don't check there t case fluid level and it cost them a t case. The SYE puts a fixed yoke there instead of that slip cone siding in and out making a leak. Just something to chew on.

All good advice Kenny!
Hokie.....
The leaf spring issue will develop as time goes on, shackles will only end up putting more stress on leaf springs that MAY be on their way out.... granted IF they are in good shape and the add a leaf works out for you, then you're prob fine for a while. But keep your eye on the forums and craigslist for a good deal on a leaf pack....another option would be to make your own "bastard pack." This uses a combination of Chevy S-10 leaves, and the leafs you already have. In the right combination you can get around 6" of lift from a bastard pack (give or take an inch.)
Lockers...Like Kenny said, everyone has their own experiences and opinions...here's mine:
Something more solid in the back IS a good choice. There's alot of guys that run Lock-Rights in the back and have great results. The bottom line is go with what is in your budget, but consider staying away from limited slips in the rear....some use clutch packs which will eventually wear out, and most need a friction modifier of some sort added to the diff fluid. However a limited slip or even better... a SELECTABLE locker for the front WOULD be a good choice. The selectables, like ARB's or Ected, or OX lockers give yoiu the ability to disengage them to better help in tight turning situations, and are more road friendly when your on the street. I'm running a lunch box style Spartan locker in the front of mine....its NOT selectable, makes a ton of noise when tight turning on the street, but has been one of the most invaluable mods I've done to the Jeep as far as traction goes.
The T-case drop may not be necessary, but you wont know for sure until you get the lift on and drive down the freeway....if you get some vibrations, its going to be from the drive line. You MAY be able to fix this by using angle shims under the leaf springs to change the pinion angle. But in any case I would keep an eye out for a SYE kit. A new driveline will be required too, and an XJ front driveline can be used as a cheaper alternative to something like a Tom Woods.
Time will tell what your driving/wheeling style and the evolution of your lift will require as far as futture mods go.
Also, if you dont have them already.......look into putting some rock rails on the top of your list too....prob one of the most essential bits of armor for the XJ's.
Good luck, Welcome to , and I hope to see you on the trail sometime!

hokiewest said:

Just back from a deployment (Army, Ft Lewis, Washington)

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atriot: thank you sir

I have a Full case grizzly (from Randy's R&P) up front. I don't even know that its up there till I'm in 4wheel drive. It's not selectable but I made up for it by installing 2low.

Grizz is like 500
2low is 200 (install it with an SYE and be done with the t case)
Its simple and dosent fail.

ARBs are more expensive and not everyone but some have problems (air leaks ect..) and its a headache. But very cool.

Ected are posi when not locked. They run on 12volt and have a big magnet inside. Kinda seems like a bad deal when your trying to keep metal shavings out of the locker. Lots of people complaining of it not unlocking when they want it to.

Ox cool but seen the cables get messed up in the rocks

With all selectable lockers they don't always lock and they don't always unlock
Just keep that in mind.

I couldn't be happier with my Spartan.
It took some getting used to, (hearing the ratcheting noise when making tight turns in parking lots)....but I've never had the "push-thru-corners" experience that some talk about in snow, and I have the confidence of knowing its always engaged when on the trail.
The center pin is larger and stronger than the ones on similar designed units, I redesigned the spacer cups, and made them out of stronger steel myself.... and there was no gear set-up required, which was a bonus when it came time to install it.
They're not as "sexy" as Grizzly's or OX, and certainly dont come with the "coolness" that is associated with ARB's.... but I know its bullet proof...and that level of confidence is worth its weight in gold.

NW99XJ said:

but I've never had the "push-thru-corners" experience that some talk about in snow


The center pin is larger and stronger than the ones on similar designed units

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Pushing comes from the rear being locked with the front being locked, that's why is never happened to you.

Yes the spartan has a brighter center pin, and yes you should ditch the roll pin for a more solid one. But the luch box style locker its self is not usually the problem it's the carrier (the thing the ring is bolted to) Medium-heavy wheeling can break your carrier (from what I've seen you have about 1-2 years of medium-heavy wheeling).

Then that 250 you spent on the locker is gone, the locker might work. But your paying for a gear set and most likely gears.

I'm not saying just man up and open the pocket book, I've built my jeep on a budget. Just something to think about.

Spend 250 on the locker, run stock gears till the carrier Breaks

If your going to regear get a full case locker, look at it as an investment.. You won't have to deal with it breaking all of a sudden and have to deal with all that (getting off the trail, tow home, jeep down for how ever long)



*when I talk about the carrier breaking I'm talking about the Dana 30 only. It's the only one if seen break over and over. All other axles are fine as far as I know. Like I said before I run a lunch box locker in the rear.

Lots of great information, definitely appreciate all the input!

Slow going installing the lift, finding parts that I wouldn't deem trail worthy so replacing them as I go. The front is all done however and the rear is dropped, probably another 3 hours of work left once I go pick up some new U-bolts.

After I test everything out next weekend (see what might break) then I'll probably get the lunchbox rear locker. After that I'm thinking quick disconnects and rock sliders.

Anybody ordered and welded up a JCR bumper? Pretty good deal and got a buddy with a shop so seems like a no-brainer.