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Need NAXJA's Help, 99 XJ Miss

JMOliver

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Carolina
Specs: 1999 Jeep cherokee, 4.0, 187000 Miles, Auto

Jeep has no codes ( I checked with my scanner )

Jeep will start right up and idle fine ( Sometimes has a little miss )
when you take off for the first time during the day it wants to bog down around 1500 RPMs, you put your foot in it and it will clear out and go.

Today: I noticed that from 1400-1900 RPMs under slight load it wants to miss every second or so once agian put your foot into it and it clears out once it goes above 2000 RPMS.

I also noticed that if you run it as hard as possible that it will lose and gain power through out the rpms.

I did a little research online and found that this sounds like symptoms of a bad ignition coil, so i dug under the hood and saw that my coil case was cracked. I replaced that and it didnt change anything..

Please NAXJA help!

Thanks
JMOliver
 
Are all your tune-up parts fresh ?

Tested your Throttle Position Sensor ? Tested your Coolant Temperature Sensor ? Tested your O2 sensors ? Tested and inspected the wires and wire plugs for the sensors ?

Is your exhaust manifold cracked ?
 
I agree with Tim.

1. Tuneup parts. Fresh Champion copper plugs gapped to .035, new plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. Simple to more complex....always.

2. Test your throttle position sensor. How to do this shown below. Issues in a certain power band can be caused by a bad spot on the TPS.

3. Test fuel pressure. Must be done with a fuel pressure gauge which can be rented from many parts stores. For a 99, you should have 49 psi, plus or minus 5 psi.
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The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the denied acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
 
I have the same year as yours and had the same exact problem , checked every sensor and for the hell of it replaced ignition coil , tps , IAS and ECT .... nothing. Thought about it some more and decided to give the MAP sensor a good cleaning along with the ground cable on the back of the cylinder head to the firewall a good cleaning , after doing those two the problem has completely gone away since August. Maybe you have the same problem.
 
Thaxman now that you have said that me two on two different occasions. But I never messed with the ground cable. How did you clean the map sensor? I've also taken into account others suggestions, working on getting a analog meter, and gonna replace wires for the hell of it

Once agian thanks everyone!
JMOliver
 
What I did was take off the Throttle body and remove the MAP sensor from the actual body. Im pretty sure there are two small Torx screws mounting it to the TB . Remove the sensor from the TB and use either MAF cleaner spray or electrical parts cleaner spray and spray into the MAP sensor , use the same cleaner spray on the ground cable as well. This should take maybe 20 mins top . It cured my problem , not sure exactly what was causing it but ill take a free fix any day.
 
Well I I took a little time to mess with my jeep today and here's what I found......


Two of the boots on the distributor cap allowed water to get on the tips and what looks like corroded. New wires and I cleaned the tips. Problem solved!

Thanks NAXJA
JMOliver
 
That explains why no codes. There are no codes for ignition malfunction except for a rather poorly implemented misfire code that is not specific. Almost everything else related to engine management will set a code.
 
I had a similar problem many years ago with my 95. It started missing on heavy acceleration and high RPM's. I went through all the tests and stuff, and then suddenly thought to myself, "when did I last replace the spark plugs?" I looked it up and found it was over a hundred thousand miles. The electrodes were hardly there at all. The thing started so well it hadn't occurred to me.
 
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