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Idle issues + rod question

Borgli

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hagerman
I am having idle issues. It started this fall. The engine would rev up to 3000rpm. Then every now and then it would settle down to 800rpm (rarely). One time I disconnected the IAC and it stopped revving really high. When hot it idled at 1100rpm. So I figured it was time for a new IAC, the first two times I started it after changing the IAC it idled at 700-750rpm. Now it revs up again. But now it is different. Sometimes it jumps up to 3000 and falls down to 750. Other times it jums to 3000 rpm and stays there for anywhere from 10 seconds to not going back down(which makes driving extemely dangerous). Other times it jumps to 2000 ad back down or it sticks at 2000 just like described earlier. It is allways 2000-2200 or 3000-3200rpm ranges and how long it stays there are totally random. Are there any other sensors that control idle?

Btw, the TB has been cleaned. The Vacuum harness is new, no leaks.

Second question, if I remove the rods from the crankshaft, do I have to get new bearings or something?
 
Your TPS is likely failing.

First off, check to see if your intake manifold bolts are tight.

Then, grab a simple meter and do the following:


RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT
Before attempting to adjust your TPS be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up.
IMPORTANT NOTE: With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION:
RENIX manual transmission equipped XJs have only a flat three-wire TPS mounted on the throttle body and it provides data input to the ECU. It has three wires in the connector and they're clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Loosen both T-20 Torx screws attaching the TPS to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you
have achieved your desired output voltage. Tighten the screws carefully while watching to see that your output voltage remains where it is supposed to be. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage, replace the TPS and start over.
Sometimes, after adjusting your TPS the way outlined above, you may experience a high idle upon starting. If that happens, shut the engine off and reconnect your probes to B and C. Start the engine and while watching your meter, turn the TPS clockwise until the idle drops to normal and then rotate it back counterclockwise to your desired output voltage.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION: RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as the manual transmission equipped vehicles, as outlined above—FOR ALL ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES.
However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector, clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. THIS SQUARE FOUR WIRE CONNECTOR IS USED FOR TRANSMISSION/SHIFTING RELATED ISSUES ONLY. Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU.
FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION RELATED ISSUES: Check the square four-wire connector side of the TPS.
If you have ENGINE ISSUES check the flat three-wire connector side of the TPS.
For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced.
Revised 09-22-2012
 
Vacuum leak usually cause a steady high idle. The most common problem with Renix high idles (87-90) is poor sensor grounds that lead to faulty, randomly changing (ground is loose and moves, and the ground resistance changes) bad data at the ECU.

A bad TPS, MAT (Manifold Air Temp sensor) or O2 sensor can lead to randomly wandering idles. The 3000 rpm idle is usually the ground, MAT or TPS that is bad. Ground repairs are free!!!! Do them first!!! they are all too common with your year jeep.

A fuel leak, fuel injector(s) or fuel pressure regulator leak at the vacuum port can cause a high idle if the O2 sensor and IAC are working right, and they reduce MPGs, and can cause stalling and hard starts. The bad MAT can cause hard starts too.
 
Why do you want to remove the rods? And no, you do not HAVE to install new bearings if you do.

Because I am pullinh the pistons to replace the rings and clean them. Ill also hone the cylinder a little + remove the lip at the top of the cylinder. Or can i just sand it with a fine grit sandpaper?
 
Because I can ;) I have the engine on a stand and want to get some experience and also clean and fix it up to good as new condition.
 
Update: a couple of the piston rings fell apart as i lifted the pistons out, i guess that could explain the aforementioned oil burning. Also the timing chain was really loose. Its a 48 link, I would really like to go for a 64 link chain as it looks sturdier, does anyone know what sprockets I have to got for a 64 link chain?
 
Sandpaper? Fine grit for removing carbon ridge? Yes, but a lot longer process than using a cylinder ridge-reamer. If not available you can use a knife to very carefully cut, not scrape, in little increments. I've also used single edge razor blades.Too much time, and does not come out as nicely as a cheap ridge-reamer, which will allow your completed piston/rod insertion into the block, especially with a piston/ring compressor tool.

You can clean out the carbon within the piston grooves with whatever ring came out of each one. Break the ring into 2,3 pieces, (insure that the break is 90 degrees to it's self), and carefully work the broken piece's edge into the groove. When I do it, I push the broken ring, not pull, around, and around the groove until all is bright. You must not take away any metal, either in the walls of the groove, or the floor. There is also a good tool for that process. Either way: have a bright work light around.

While you are doing all of this to your piston, check to see if there is any wobble of the wrist-pin connecting the piston, and rod. The answer to that is more involved.
 
Ok, I just ordered a ridge reamer. I though they where pricy but 35$ shipped to norway was ok. Do I also need a ring compressor to get the pistons with rings back in? Does it slide in the cylinder and then you push the piston in?
The connection between rod and pistons seems sturdy.
 
Its a 48 link, I would really like to go for a 64 link chain as it looks sturdier, does anyone know what sprockets I have to got for a 64 link chain?
Just get a whole new timing kit. It will come with chain and both cogs.

Ok, I just ordered a ridge reamer. I though they where pricy but 35$ shipped to norway was ok.
Careful with that tool. I have seen some blocks damaged by using one. If there is that much of a ridge any how its time for an over bore. If its just carbon spray it with seafoam, or some other cleaner (don't know what you have there), let it soak in the scrape it off with a razor blade. You can also use a brass brush to clean it off. I would not use the ridge reamer to clean carbon.
Do I also need a ring compressor to get the pistons with rings back in?
Yes, you need a ring compressor. The compressor goes around the pistons then you knock the piston into the bore. Cover the connecting rod bolts with some vinyl or rubber hose so they don't mar the crank.
 
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