Oil filter adapter removal, trailriders tips and tricks

I saw the thread a week or so ago and gave some advice that i hoped helped. My mom's '00 needed a oil change today and her oil filter adapter was weeping so I replaced the O rings. This is a 15min job at most if you have the right tools and know how. So here are my tips and tricks.

Tools; I made my own and if you don't have a means of welding, befriend someone who can and have him fix you up a breaker bar/T-60 bit like the one I made



I took a 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar and welded a cut down T-60 bit directly to the 1/2" drive. The handle on this breaker bar is long enough to clear the lower control arm underneath and allows enough leverage that you will not strain yourself or even need a pipe to extend it. If its to tight to break loose by hand then just use your foot pushing towards the front of the Jeep. It WILL come loose. Of course make sure the bit is fully seated in the bolt first or you will just make matters worse.

Then once the bolt is broken loose you need a way to run the bolt out quickly. I use another cut down T-60 bit and a ratchet wrench with the bit taped to the wrench just to keep it from sliding out. It makes the removal of the bolt much quicker.



Now clean it all up good with brake cleaner.

The O rings are sometimes a issue to get and the dealer wants too much for them. The large O ring is available at Oriellys for $1.69. The middle O ring is also available at Oriellys for $.89. I had to go to my local hardware to find the smaller O ring, it was $.86. Take your old ones with you to match them up.




For the re-installation I use Dow Corning 55 O ring lubricant. Vaseline will work just fine though. Dow 55 is specifically formulated for butyl O rings and will keep them from drying up and leaking for a while longer than normal. Most O ring suppliers can get you the Dow 55. Its not cheap or readily available so Vaseline is a good replacement.

Lube the O rings and the O ring grooves with a generous amount of lubricant and re-install using the small ratchet wrench to run the bolt down and then using the breaker bar to make it tight. Don't over do it though, its not necessary to try to twist the head off the bolt!

Make sure the adapter is aligned with the dowel pin in the block and the filter should be facing rearward.

I hope these tips help someone that may be searching this topic or laboring trying to get a simple job done that can be difficult if the right tools are not available. Plan ahead and it will be an easy task.

I absolutely love your "special tool". I've got a few like that in my toolbox.

Morris4x4 center has the o-rings, all the o-rings, in one convinient package, for rather cheaply too....

Sure beats spending an entire day tracking them. They do have somewhat expensive shipping, so buy 3 or 4 packs, you'll go thru them in no time if youve got friends who jeep.

Is there a better solution? I don't know how I feel about sacrificing a craftsman breaker bar to make a tool I'll use once in a blue moon.

crimsondragon said:

Is there a better solution? I don't know how I feel about sacrificing a craftsman breaker bar to make a tool I'll use once in a blue moon.

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It's a space issue you can unbolt the motor mount and make all the space you need and not bust up any tools...I did origionally put the torx bit in a big set of vice grips and closed the handle with the bench vice and taped the handle to prevet it popping open and clipping my hand , but I was worried when I started to try to loosen the bolt I would end up busting up my hand when it came loose , so i just unbolted the motor mount and put the bit back in the socket sleeve and went to work ....I think it took me 40 minutes to 1hr which includes the time figuring out how I wanted to do it .

crimsondragon said:

Is there a better solution? I don't know how I feel about sacrificing a craftsman breaker bar to make a tool I'll use once in a blue moon.

Click to expand...

I sacrificed a cheap 9/16 box wrench instead. Cut off the open end, put that torx bit through the box end and tape it in. Put the wrench on the ofa and point it straight up. Grab a pipe (high lift handle works great) and slide it over the wrench from the top. Turn left.

This will break it loose enough that you can turn it the rest of the way out without the cheater bar.

crimsondragon said:

Is there a better solution? I don't know how I feel about sacrificing a craftsman breaker bar to make a tool I'll use once in a blue moon.

Click to expand...

Last time I did this I used a quality (Snap-On) 3/8" breaker bar with a 3/8" size T60. The 3/8" tools are much smaller than the 1/2" sized tools & fit right in there. I needed a 3Ft cheater bar over the breaker bar to assist in breaking it free.
I held pressure with a pry bar between the frame & the Breaker bar to keep the T60 from slipping out of the adapter.
Even with a 3 ft cheater over the breaker bar it took quite a bit of pressure to break it free, That thing is in there tight, probably put in there by a robot with an impact gun :roflmao:

IslanderOffRoad said:

I sacrificed a cheap 9/16 box wrench instead. Cut off the open end, put that torx bit through the box end and tape it in. Put the wrench on the ofa and point it straight up. Grab a pipe (high lift handle works great) and slide it over the wrench from the top. Turn left.

This will break it loose enough that you can turn it the rest of the way out without the cheater bar.

Click to expand...

I tried that one time & I snapped the wrench!, Some of those things are in there tight!!

cruiser54 said:

I absolutely love your "special tool". I've got a few like that in my toolbox.

Click to expand...

Thanks Cruiser!

xcm said:

Morris4x4 center has the o-rings, all the o-rings, in one convinient package, for rather cheaply too....

Sure beats spending an entire day tracking them. They do have somewhat expensive shipping, so buy 3 or 4 packs, you'll go thru them in no time if youve got friends who jeep.

Click to expand...

I buy enough to last for a while when i do go shopping locally. And my gas is probably about as much as their shipping so its a wash.

crimsondragon said:

Is there a better solution? I don't know how I feel about sacrificing a craftsman breaker bar to make a tool I'll use once in a blue moon.

Click to expand...

I got the breaker bar at the flea market for a few bucks. I have 4 XJ's and an MJ so it will get plenty of use.

1-tonxj said:

It's a space issue you can unbolt the motor mount and make all the space you need and not bust up any tools...I did origionally put the torx bit in a big set of vice grips and closed the handle with the bench vice and taped the handle to prevet it popping open and clipping my hand , but I was worried when I started to try to loosen the bolt I would end up busting up my hand when it came loose , so i just unbolted the motor mount and put the bit back in the socket sleeve and went to work ....I think it took me 40 minutes to 1hr which includes the time figuring out how I wanted to do it .

Click to expand...

That could bloody some knuckles! I have found that the more mechanical advantage you have the less pressure needed to break a bolt loose. Less pressure = less bloody knuckles! Great idea in a pinch though.

IslanderOffRoad said:

I sacrificed a cheap 9/16 box wrench instead. Cut off the open end, put that torx bit through the box end and tape it in. Put the wrench on the ofa and point it straight up. Grab a pipe (high lift handle works great) and slide it over the wrench from the top. Turn left.

This will break it loose enough that you can turn it the rest of the way out without the cheater bar.

Click to expand...

I did this as well and snapped 2 box wrenches(snap-on) so i ditched that idea.

garr said:

Last time I did this I used a quality (Snap-On) 3/8" breaker bar with a 3/8" size T60. The 3/8" tools are much smaller than the 1/2" sized tools & fit right in there. I needed a 3Ft cheater bar over the breaker bar to assist in breaking it free.
I held pressure with a pry bar between the frame & the Breaker bar to keep the T60 from slipping out of the adapter.
Even with a 3 ft cheater over the breaker bar it took quite a bit of pressure to break it free, That thing is in there tight, probably put in there by a robot with an impact gun :roflmao:



I tried that one time & I snapped the wrench!, Some of those things are in there tight!!

Click to expand...

The first time you break one loose is the worst! After that they give up easy. I don't know what they put those things in there with at the factory but it is stronger than man!

Good info, I have two 99's that I need to do this to next time I change the oil

I may have to try this when the 94 starts leaking. Great tip and advice.

I'll most likely go with the motor mount idea. I don't like sacrificing any tools no matter how cheap. Kind of an OCD. Unfortunately it sucks I'm in an apartment complex so I can't work on her anymore.

For the people here who do not have access to a welder, or do not want to sacrifice a $20 breaker bar, his 2nd T60 solution is sufficient for both steps.
Just use the ground down bit with a box wrench and a long pipe (if you can find one). Once the bolt gives, you can just use the wrench without the bar.

Just to add. O-ring part # 4720363 seal pkg.list $4.46 at local DLR on 12/27/12 My cost out door w/tax=$4.15
T-60 1/2"drive socket from Advance Auto $6.00. And you could add an oil filter to the list for another $4.

crimsondragon said:

Is there a better solution? I don't know how I feel about sacrificing a craftsman breaker bar to make a tool I'll use once in a blue moon.

Click to expand...

The pics are clickable....

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1086127&highlight=oil+filter

crimsondragon said:

I'll most likely go with the motor mount idea. I don't like sacrificing any tools no matter how cheap. Kind of an OCD. Unfortunately it sucks I'm in an apartment complex so I can't work on her anymore.

Click to expand...

That is not an option on the Renix, as the motor mount bolt runs into the OFA, so you would need to sawsall the motor mount bolt, LOL.


IIRC we had the same problem on the 94 engine swap.

crimsondragon said:

I'll most likely go with the motor mount idea. I don't like sacrificing any tools no matter how cheap. Kind of an OCD. Unfortunately it sucks I'm in an apartment complex so I can't work on her anymore.

Click to expand...

I wouldn't normally but I got the breaker bar cheap and I have used it on at least 15 XJ's in the last 6 years.

OK fine people? I have a 93 and a94 xj. 4.0 auto. Yup they both leak at the ofa. T-60 doesn't fit either one. To big on one to small on the other. Not even torx style. Any ideas? Thanx people, I'm tired of leaking.

4xfishfinder said:

OK fine people? I have a 93 and a94 xj. 4.0 auto. Yup they both leak at the ofa. T-60 doesn't fit either one. To big on one to small on the other. Not even torx style. Any ideas? Thanx people, I'm tired of leaking.

Click to expand...

Well, I have only seen two types of adapter bolts on the XJ's, the T-60 and a hex head bolt on the RENIX models(can't remember the size). I have my 94 in the garage right now. I will go look.

Okay, just in from the garage. Right now I have a 94 4.0 XJ in the garage waiting on a engine swap, a 91 XJ 4.0 on a engine stand and a 96 XJ 4.0 engine on a stand(this one is going in the 94).

All have the T-60 adapter bolt. Make sure yours isn't rounded out or clogged up with crud

Looked at them with a mirror. 94 has Allen style bigger than 3/8, 93 has what appears to be torx but bigger than t-60. Thank for checking. Woohoo more tools to buy.

I just did the job on my 2001 Cherokee using the 3 o-ring set from the dealer ($13) and this tool obtained from Amazon ($12)

Felo 0715730748 T60 x 7-1/2-Inch Torx L-wrench, 348 Series

This is basically like an Allen key only with Torx end. Short end clears the motor mount and the long end required an additional 18" length of metal tubing (2 piece bottle jack handle) for sufficient leverage.

For quick turning after cracking it loose I used the Torx bit in a ratcheting box wrench with the bit wedged in with plastic film so it wouldn't fall out.

Fairly straightforward job when using the right tools.