Just got off the phone with Advance Auto. They have the ATK replacement head for $450 but are taking off a 20% discount. This replacement head does NOT include the rocker arm assemblies, however, and that's another 200 bucks. Is this common to not include the rocker arms? I'm going to try Clearwater in the morning. Alabama appears to be out of business.
The rockers will swap - clean them up and check for damage, bu they should be fine. Ditto the bridges & pivots.
Get a small pot/tube of engine assembly lube, and be generous with it at the rocker pivots and both ends of the pushrod. You
can't use too much - it's oil-soluble and helps with engine run-in (on a freshly built engine) anyhow. It won't hurt parts that are already run in, so that's no trouble.
It's not critical to do so, but I would keep the pivot blocks matched to the rocker arms on the way out - zip-ties work well for this. Arrangement of the screws and bridges is unimportant, mix & match at will. Rocker arms theoretically don't matter, and I've not had any trouble mixing those around.
If you pull out a tappet, it
must be coated with assembly lube, and it
must go back into
the exact same hole it came out of! If you get them out and you're even just a little bit unsure, replace them. There's no faster way to wreck a cam, that I know of, than mixing tappets (at least, that it's a fully catastrophic failure.)
The tappets are just under 1" in diameter - I've got a chunk of 2x4 lumber that I've drilled twenty 1" holes in using a Forstner bit (gives a flat-bottom blind hole) about 3/4" deep, and that works well to keep them sorted. One end of the board is marked "Front" (as in engine front,) and the holes are numbered in one row of 1-8 and the other row is 1-12 (works for any engine that way.) Cheap shop tool that has saved me a pantload of money over the years...
