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Heim steering issue!

NW-ZJ-SCOTT

NW-ZJ-SCOTT

TEXAS-JT-SCOTT
NAXJA Member
Location
NE Texas
I have 1.5" DOM trac bar/drag link/ tie rod. With 3/4" hiems
All on a wj knuckle swap. For some reason, I cannot keep the drag link bolts tight. They are 5/8" grade 8. Nylock nuts. I've used fresh nuts with red locktite I've torqued the bolts to atleast 150ft/lb. they still break loose constantly. My pitman arm is now wallowed out slightly. The knuckle side is not yet..


Is there a solution to this? I'm close to just welding the nuts to the bolts
 
the drag link itself is wallowed out where the heim goes in?

FWIW I double nut mine. Just added security, But also check after/before any wheeling or long drives. part of the pre/post trip i do
 
ive always ran distorted thread locknuts without issues with hiems
 
in4aride said:
the drag link itself is wallowed out where the heim goes in?

FWIW I double nut mine. Just added security, But also check after/before any wheeling or long drives. part of the pre/post trip i do
Click to expand...
No no, The lock nuts on the heims are doing their job nicely, It's the main 5/8" bolts going to the pitman arm, aswell as the knuckle on the drag link and i check them before every trip, "Torque them" and half a day later i have to re-torque them
ROBZ95Xj said:
ive always ran distorted thread locknuts without issues with hiems
Click to expand...
Hmm.. I'll google it:eek:
zachandandy said:
Torque spec on a grade 8 5/8" bolt is 240ft/lbs, tight is a subjective term, pull harder!
Click to expand...
Thanks, I always felt i was pushing the limit.. I'll get new nuts, And take them to 240ft/lbs and then double nut.. with red locktite..

I Might just make the pitman arm double shear..
 
With that being wallowed out already i wonder if that is playing into them coming loose so often. when you drilled your arms out did you do it to same size as bolt?? i cut mine slightly smaller so i had to bang the bolts through as compared to them just sliding.right in. First set i drilled to same size as bolt and had same issues you are having. If bolt wiggle or moves when it just sits there.....it isn't gonna get better with a load on it.
 
in4aride said:
With that being wallowed out already i wonder if that is playing into them coming loose so often. when you drilled your arms out did you do it to same size as bolt?? i cut mine slightly smaller so i had to bang the bolts through as compared to them just sliding.right in. First set i drilled to same size as bolt and had same issues you are having. If bolt wiggle or moves when it just sits there.....it isn't gonna get better with a load on it.
Click to expand...

I drilled out the Pitman arm with a 5/8" Bit in a drill press.. It used to be a tight hole for the bolt, but now it slides right in, and i would say i could probably get a 21/32" bolt in it now.. Its not REALLY loose, but the top of the bolt head might wiggle side to side 1/16" of an inch..
 
1/16 by hand magnified with movement at both ends and load on it. that will give ya some wiggle and loosen things up.

id say find some good washers that fit very snug on the bolts. slide bolts through the hole with one washer on each side of the arm. weld them in place.
in essence shrinking the hole again. if this helps you may want to look for better pitman/steering arms.
 
I run 3/4" bolts on my steering, drilled with a 3/4" bit and haven't had an issue with standard nylocks at all. My torque wrench only goes to 250ft/lbs, but torque spec on the 3/4" bolts is 340ft/lbs. Even at 250, no signs of loosening at all.
 
Had the same problem for a while too, I double nutted the bolts using distorted thread nuts, and never had any more problems with them coming loose.

A distorted thread lock nut is the OTHER version of lock nut. It basically means the nut was slightly pinched, tightening the hole that the bolt threads through just like a nylon lock nut would, but its metal-on-metal, so its a MUCH tighter hold. My local Lowes and Ace Hardware stores, Tractor Supply stores carry this type of lock nut.
 
Thanks guys.. Now that i am off the trail and thinking clearly, Doubling up on distorted thread nuts and torquing them sounds like a solid plan.
 
You shouldn't need to double up on a distorted thread nut. My pneumatic impact can barely get them off on full power.

Like zachandandy, I run 3/4" fine thread bolts on my steering and run the same type of locknuts. I set my torque wrench to its max at 250 ft/lbs, crank on it until it clicks, then pull it as hard as I can past the click. Probably no more than 275 on the bolts, but they have never moved or come loose.

I also double sheared my pitman arm. I hate the way the pitman looks in single shear with misalignment bushings, bolt is just too long. It was pretty simple and it took the welds just fine.
 
I use a castle nut and cotter pin on my steering bolts. I use 3/4" bolts and I tighten them to probably 300' lbs. There is a double sheer pitman arm you can buy but $$$. It would solve that problem though.
 
are you checking for bolt stretch also? use a micrometer and check the length of the bolt prior to tightening it down. then recheck the length again afterwards. even good bolts can stretch prematurely. i have had ARP head bolts stretch on me 1/4" at 35' pounds. a bad batch is what ARP told me, but who knows. all bolts have a certain stretch length they are SUPPOSED to stretch when properly torqued, but some can be faulty. all that said, i like the castle nut and cotter pin the best as mentioned all ready.
 
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