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No start checklist

bimmerjeeper

NAXJA Forum User
Location
USA
I wanted to summarize what to check if your XJ does not start.
Is this a good starting point?
Can you tell me the best ordering?
Also, what can you add to this list?

  • Neutral Safety Switch (Try to start in neutral, not park)
  • Check battery terminals. (Loose and/or corroded)
  • Starter Relay (Fuse #19, kick panel)
  • Starter (Hit with hammer)
  • Starter (Jump with screwdriver)
  • Fuel pressure. 48PSI. Listen for Fuel Pump.
  • Crank Position Sensor (CPS)
  • Ignition Switch
  • Check for spark (How do you do this?)
  • Is gas tank empty?
  • Bad spark plugs? Bad Coil? Bad ECU? Bad Distributor, Cap, Wires?
 
#1,#2(to an extent),#3,#4,#5 along with #8 All should be together to say if it is not cranking over. #s 2,3,5,and 8 are to check that power is actually getting to the starter.
If it is (cranking over) though, I would check #6, #9,#10, and #11 in that order. #6 is easy to check, pull out #1 spark plug and crank it over, you should see a vapor come out. If it does it means that you are getting gas up to the engine. To check for spark, take a long screwdriver and with the same #1 plug you just pulled, stick the end of the screwdriver into the spark plug boot, then hold it close to something metal. if you dont see a spark, you know it has something to do with #11.

On a side note, there have been a few times that I would hit the key and there would be nothing (When in park) on my automatic 99'. If i put it in Neutral though, it would start. On a manual though, #1 will be on or around the clutch pedal. Hence why the clutch has to be pushed in when you start it up.
 
Have you checked the FAQ?
 
NOT CRANKING
  • Neutral Safety Switch (Try to start in neutral, not park)
  • Check battery terminals. (Loose and/or corroded)
  • Starter Relay (Fuse #19, kick panel)
  • Starter (Hit with hammer)
  • Starter (Jump with screwdriver)
  • Ignition Switch

CRANKS, BUT NO START
  • Fuel pressure. 48PSI. Listen for Fuel Pump.
  • Check for spark (How do you do this?)
  • Is gas tank empty?
  • Bad spark plugs? Bad Coil? Bad ECU? Bad Distributor, Cap, Wires?
  • Crank Position Sensor (CPS)
 
To check for spark, I still can not get a straight answer on any forum about how to actually do this.

You take out the spark plug and START the engine?
Is this dangerous?
Does it run like sh/t with one spark plug out?
How long can you keep the engine running like this?
Do you hold the spark plug in your hand while the engine is running?
Or do you let it dangle in the air?
 
To check for spark, I still can not get a straight answer on any forum about how to actually do this.

You take out the spark plug and START the engine?
Is this dangerous?
Does it run like sh/t with one spark plug out?
How long can you keep the engine running like this?
Do you hold the spark plug in your hand while the engine is running?
Or do you let it dangle in the air?

You can pick up a tool (any auto part store-cheap) that plugs into the spark plug wire (at the plug end) and has a clip that you ground to the engine. It has an adjustment that you can make to increase the distance the spark has to jump across. To start run the distance down to about what your spark plug gap is, you can increase the distance to see how far the spark will jump. Running it like that is no problem (if it starts), but if you're in a no start situation just have someone else crank while you watch. Since this is such a common problem there probably is something in the FAQ's that will help, it's always best the start there anyway.
 
To check for spark, I still can not get a straight answer on any forum about how to actually do this.

You take out the spark plug and START the engine?
Is this dangerous?
Does it run like sh/t with one spark plug out?
How long can you keep the engine running like this?
Do you hold the spark plug in your hand while the engine is running?
Or do you let it dangle in the air?

A bit confused as it hasn't been noted. Does the engine actually RUN? It's always best to lead off with a detailed description of your actual "symptoms"

If the engine runs, then you can't use the "pull a plug" technique.

If the engine does NOT run, pull a spark plug, keep it attached to the plug wire, place the plug electrode near a good engine ground. Have a buddy crank the engine while you watch. You are looking for a strong, BLUE, snapping spark. Yellow/orange/white indicates a weak spark which may not be strong enough to start the engine. (a weak spark can often be caused by a weak ignition coil).
 

It looks like they are for different purposes, one to check for bad wires, the other for in-line checking of plugs. As suggested you can just pull a plug and ground it to the block, but I like mine because I can widen the gap to see how far the spark will jump (the wider the gap the more voltage is required) and you don't have to pull a plug.

This is one that is similar to mine: http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Automotive/Spark_Testers/THE404.htm
 
Hey guys - I apologize for hi-jacking this thread but ya'all are on the subject of the issue I am having and could use some advice.

First off - it's a 2001 with 140k and stock motor. As of September it is has been my 2nd car and gets driven every so often. Just took it wheelin' over turkey day weekend. Nothing hard core but did play in the mud quite a bit. It was raining hard today so I decided to drive it to work (50 miles one way).
So - I Drove to work today, and had no problems. Went out about 3 hours later to get some lunch and the Jeep won't start. No Crank Nothin. I check the battery voltage = Fine.

Here's the abslolute weird part - I open the door - all lights that should come on - come on, then I try to start it, I hear a click and then the dome light dims and all the lights go out. Then out of nowhere, about 5 to 10 minutes later, the lights come back on. I then try to start again and get the same thing.

I removed all accessory items (lights and Winch) just to make sure there isn't a short. I also pulled the relay cover and all of the fuses and relays are dry.

Maybe some mud / water got onto something that I am missing?

So at this point I am absolutely clueless. I don't know electrical very well so any and all help would be most welcome.

THANKS!!!!
 
Thanks.... It doesn't touch on no crank though :-( I am getting absolutely nothing when I turn the key. Then when I do try to start it, the dash lights go out. It's like it resets after about 10 minutes.

This is a strange one I tell ya....lol
 
It looks like they are for different purposes, one to check for bad wires, the other for in-line checking of plugs. As suggested you can just pull a plug and ground it to the block, but I like mine because I can widen the gap to see how far the spark will jump (the wider the gap the more voltage is required) and you don't have to pull a plug.

This is one that is similar to mine: http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Automotive/Spark_Testers/THE404.htm

I bought this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-SHIP-I...H_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d2d9d0c7&vxp=mtr
 
A bit confused as it hasn't been noted. Does the engine actually RUN? It's always best to lead off with a detailed description of your actual "symptoms"

All you're doing is cranking the engine to see if spark is getting to the plugs. You don't actually need to run the engine to verify this.
 
Don't trust just hearing the fuel pump kick on. Check fuel pressure. If you got the tools you can also check the amps it's drawing. Had a no start issue on mine. Went through everything. Checked pressure and it was low. Hooked up an amp merger and power probe. Jumped the fuel pump and it was pulling under 1 amp instead of about 6-7 amps.

Also if you did a no spark check the coil. You should have 12 volts at the plug. With the CKPS always check for the 5 volt reference. Melted wires on a dodge I had for the speed sensor cause a loss of the 5 volts. Didn't figure this until I spent the money on replacing the sensor.

One of the best things is always to do research and fun the problem not through parts at the problem.
 
Harbor freight.

A free way is to pressure up the fuel lines then hit the schraeder valve. If fuel dribbles out then bad pressure. It should spray out. This is only very basic. You can healthy discharge from the valve but still not have full pressure.

Don't do this with a hot engine or else you may start a fire.
 
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