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Question on 33s

B

Bonanzarambler

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Central city Ky
I'm a new owner of an old jeep and I really want 33s with no lift...I don't care to cut the hell out of the fenders as I only have $700 invested in it but will I be able to use my stock wheels...1988 is the year if it helps...thank you in advance
 
you can run whatever tire size you want on however much lift, id sugest atleast some sort shackle/coil spacers, but what do i know, aint like im running 42's on 5"
 
I understand that but I was wondering bout the backspacing on the wheels and a 12.50 tire....will it rub while turning and how much turn will it take to rub and will it just rub the front or both...I just drive this jeep to work at a coal mine so FULL turning radius is not a necessity and again thank u in advance
 
it will rub like hell, front and rear. youll have to bumpstop both ends to have about zero uptravel unless you literally hack the body up to the body line front and rear. then in the rear you run in to body issues with the nice seam holding the inner and outer wheel well together, once you cut it above the seam you compromise the body structure and it needs to be patched back together with a welder... not too bad, just about a 8 hour process for both sides, just did it to mine a month ago. im on 3" with 33's and did the rear large enough to stuff 35's and plausible for 37's with good bumpstops
 
the 10.5s will tuck inside the rear fender with stock wheels, barely. the front is a little wide and will have to be cut regardless
 
I don't care to cut the hell out it but will it rub on leafs or control arms on stock wheels....I can get these tires for $100 a set with good thread...I'm planing on doing this this weekend as its supposed to be nice in ky and I have 3days off thanks to Veterans Day...I will be taking pics before and after...wish me luck and thanks for y'all help
 
Bonanzarambler said:
How far could u steer before they rubbed up front...r all stock wheels backspaces the same?
Click to expand...

Not much, you need 4" of backspacing and stock wheels are 5-1/4"
You will need different wheels or spacers.
You will also need to add bumpstops to keep from rubbing.
You might be a lot happier running a shorter tire.
 
I am on 33x10.5. Lift at 5"-5 1/2". Stock flares no trimming. Stock wheels

Front rubs on full lock on the control arms and the stock front skid, but is more than drive able. Front and rear tuck inside flares and fenders at full stuff. Flares rub on tread, but haven't ripped off.
 
88trailcrawler said:
I am on 33x10.5. Lift at 5"-5 1/2". Stock flares no trimming. Stock wheels

Front rubs on full lock on the control arms and the stock front skid, but is more than drive able. Front and rear tuck inside flares and fenders at full stuff. Flares rub on tread, but haven't ripped off.
Click to expand...

Yeah, but 5" does a lot with the placement of the wheel when articulating
 
This will help your decision out with lift and tire figment.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/xj-lift-tire-setup-thread-260/

Further more. Stock on stock wheels and 33 10.50's is very doable, you'll have to do the typical trim job and have limited up travel but you'll have lots of droop, to whomever said you need 4" wheel spacing has obviously never ran stock wheels on 33x 10.50's before. And breezio69 when your at full stuff it don't matter what size lift you have your stuffed tire turns into a pivot point at that point so tire placement will be the same. Your axle doesn't shift left to right when flexing the track bar takes care of that...
 
I totally get what your saying maxx I was coming at it more along the lines of thinking geometry.. what your saying is true, but, lifting it changes the pivot point (obviously). For instance, take two pens. Hold one stationary and hold one in the middle an inch apart, twist the wrist, notice where it touches the other pen, almost end to end... move them apart inch and do it again, the point becomes narrower where it hits the stationary pen....

Stationary pen is the body, moving pen is the tire and axles. That's just where I was coming from...

I didn't mean to explain this like an idiot, it was just an easy thing to do at your desk :)
 
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Breezio69 said:
I totally get what your saying maxx I was coming at it more along the lines of thinking geometry.. what your saying is true, but, lifting it changes the pivot point (obviously). For instance, take two pens. Hold one stationary and hold one in the middle an inch apart, twist the wrist, notice where it touches the other pen, almost end to end... move them apart inch and do it again, the point becomes narrower where it hits the stationary pen....

Stationary pen is the body, moving pen is the tire and axles. That's just where I was coming from...

I didn't mean to explain this like an idiot, it was just an easy thing to do at your desk :)
Click to expand...


I get what your saying but with your axle setup it always holds the tires generally in the same spot, if your idea were true you would spit out coils and destroy shocks, it would also take 2 hands to hold the axle pencil to represent the control arms.
 
I dont get how this "isnt true", its a proven fact that i gave you an example to do in your hand... unfortunately, us jeep guys, go up, out, and bigger, so your lift of 5" gets taken away by 5+" taller tires... = bumpstops = losing the point of what im saying... k, ill get elementary.

im assuming you are talking about the axle being stationary on one side and then being pivoted upward on the other... kind of curious why this happens right here
axlepivot.png


tell the spring and shock breaking theory to the guy that can flex his rig almost 90* from front and rear
 
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