1995-1996 booster swap into an 89 Limited, need info asap!

I'm literally posting this from the middle of a junkyard.

I have an 89 Cherokee Limited without ABS, and I'm trying to do the dual diaphragm booster and both WJ's I've found aren't in good shape. There is a 96 XJ here. What do I need to grab to do the swap? I found a writeup but the site is long dead. Please help, its hot in this junkyard!

May be late - but I just used the 96 booster (and the spacer). Have to do some alteration to the pushrod but the length is just right. Make sure you use the MC that is on the 96 booster. I didn't change my prop valve - but I'm not sure if that's necessary.

Alternatively, i've seen people suggest using the brake pedal assembly as well as the booster.

You're in time, I'm still in the junkyard grabbing other stuff, haven't gone back to the 96 yet. So I just need the booster, m/c, and spacer? Its pretty intact, so I can grab just about anything I need.

Yeah, the spacer sits between the booster and firewall (aluminum, I think).

That's all I used when I swapped my booster into my MJ.

This jeep is a 96 xj 2wd without abs if that helps. Working on pulling it now. I can grab any brake lines needed, its all here.

I don't think that matters. One thing you'll have to do is fab new brake lines from the prop valve to the MC, because the ends are different types.

Probably wouldn't hurt to grab everything including the prop valve.

So after a long day at the junkyard, and with a much lighter wallet (I bought other stuff too), I am back home and wanting to get ready for this tomorrow.

Now I've been doing searching (went through 20 pages of threads already), and I keep reading about modifying or making new brake lines. My XJ is an 89 non-ABS model, and the booster/MC I got is out of a non-ABS 96. Looking with the naked eye, it looks like my OEM lines will just hook straight up to the 96 prop valve. They sit in exactly the right spot. Is this true? I'm thinking maybe I scored a bit of a steal here with finding a non-ABS 96. Everything is intact from the prop valve all the way to the booster. I know I need to grind the end of the booster rod to match mine, but other than that, it APPEARS it will just bolt right in without even modding brake lines? Fingers crossed here that I won't!

I'm pretty sure that the flared ends are different.

Which flared ends? The ones that come into the prop valve from below? If so, what's the easiest way to make my lines fit into the prop valve? This is my DD and I'm already blown out of money, so if there's something I can just bolt on to make this work that would absolutely save my ass right now.

Honestly, I don't know about that. I just know that between the 88 prop valve and the 96 booster, it required new lines due to the flared end.

I have the 96 prop valve too though, I left it connected to the 96 master cylinder and booster.

The ends of the brake lines are flared. There are two types of flares, and afaik, they are not interchangeable. One is a bubble and one is a cone, I think. I don't remember exactly.

I don't know what the type of flare is for the ends of the lines. I know that the flares on the line that hits the mc are not the same in the later years.

I don't know the type of flared end that goes into the prop valve. Sorry.

For kicks and giggles, I'm trying to compare part numbers for the proportioning valves and see what (if any) the differences are, but I can't find any sort of listing for it on RockAuto, AutoZone, NAPA, etc. I swear they look like they're in exactly the same place.

Here is what I snagged out of the junkyard today.



The lines coming into the bottom of the 96 proportioning valve seem to be just like the ones going into my OEM 89 prop valve. I read MJ owners talking about 6 lines, I have nothing like that. Just hoping to get more people who know a lot more about these dang things than I do to be able to help me out here. It's almost a downside to the forums, there is SO much info it's hard to sort out exactly what the differences are between models years and options in terms of swapping these kinds of parts.

EDIT: If a mod can do me a favor and amend the title to take out the "need info asap" part that would be great. I am no longer standing in the middle of a junkyard leaning on a wrecked Caravan hoping my signal stays strong enough to post the thread lol.

the prop valve is fine. if you are replacing a bendix system the issue is the lines that come from the bottom of the prop valve went to the bendix pump first, then to the wheels. deleting the bendix pump means you need to run the line from the wheels all the way to the prop valve, and thats where the lines differ. the factory bendix lines have a different thread than what is on the bottom of your prop valve. but by looking at the pics you are in luck as you have the correct fittings. you just need to cut your lines, install the fittings that are in the prop valve in the pics, then re-flare (double flare) the tube. good you grabbed the small lines from the master and prop valve. those are hard to make with those tight bends. unless you grabbed the passenger side hard line from the wheel to prop valve, you may need to use a union fitting on your bendix line because it is too short. (if i remember correctly).
if you did not grab the pedal assembly, you may need to fabricate your push rod as it may not line up correctly to your pedal. my bendix system pedal assembly was way off and i needed to use a different pedal assembly from the 95/96. luckily i grabbed that when i was getting the rest of the parts from the junk yard. honestly i felt much better installing the correct pedal assembly rather than cutting and re-welding the push rod to make it fit. plus the assembly is not that hard to swap out. popping out the lower switch panels in the dash make it easy to use long extensions on a ratchet.

Yeah, I stressed all night and kept trying different search terms and did LOTS of reading overnight. So I should use my OEM lines that come to the prop valve from below, just cut the ends off and use the fittings from the bottom side of the 96 prop valve that I left attached and put them on my OEM line, then double flare the end?

if your lines will reach the prop valve yes. not knowing your exact set up i would first try the fittings you have now into the prop valve. the reason we normally need to change them is because the bendix ABS used weird sizes. but the ones that go to the prop valve should all be the same. i first tried using the 96 prop valve since it was all ready attached to the booster. but then realized there was a small nick in the seating area of the fitting and it leaked ever so slightly. so i had to swap it out for the one that was used with the bendix system and it was the same. i hope this is making sense to you.

I don't have ABS in my XJ, nor did the XJ I pulled the booster from. I wish I had the ability to "trial and error" this together, but like I said, it's my DD and only running vehicle, so I really have one shot to get it done.