8.8 IRO install questions

Hello everyone I'm new to this but have been reading ever since I bought my 96 xj. Its on 35"s with an IRO 5.5 long arm lift the fenders have been trimmed and not much else has been done. I decided to go with the 8.8 and located a 98 with LS-4.10's. I purchased the IRO install kit with truss because its a great deal and after getting it the quality is top notch.

Here is where I am at and hope you guys will give me your opinion on what I am thinking of doing. First because I do not yet have a SYE I want to weld the perches at the angle necessary to run one but until then install shims to drop the pinion angle down. Then once I do the SYE remove the shims and it should be ready to go.

My other question is the stock breather is going to end up under the truss and want to know the best way to seal it, Threaded plug or weld over? Then where is the best place to relocate a breather port? I was thinking of removing the abs sensor and making a cover plate with a breather nipple to attach the hose to?

I pretty much know what to do with the brakes and have found that the IRO shock mounts are going to force me into a shorter shock unless you know another way?

anyway guys that's it I appreciate you taking the time to read this and offer any advice you can on my issues.

A "cover" plate wouldnt seal well on the ABS port, since it is only held on by one bolt, but if you were able to make a piece to go down into the housing, mimicking the ABS sensor that would work well, assuming it didnt leak from having gear oil slung into it and then forced out as the air tried to escape. The high clearance shock mounts pretty much force you into a shorter shock. I was running stock length shocks with RuffStuff mounts at 4.5" I dont see any problem in setting the perches at the angle for an SYE if you can do the geometry to find the hypothetical angle of the drive shaft. Also, I would personally just weld the old vent up. That way you dont have a bolt in there that you cant access, in case it ever came loose

My IRO truss has a cut out for the breather and I ran the stock hose with no problems.

sventinker said:

Here is where I am at and hope you guys will give me your opinion on what I am thinking of doing. First because I do not yet have a SYE I want to weld the perches at the angle necessary to run one but until then install shims to drop the pinion angle down. Then once I do the SYE remove the shims and it should be ready to go.

My other question is the stock breather is going to end up under the truss and want to know the best way to seal it, Threaded plug or weld over? Then where is the best place to relocate a breather port? I was thinking of removing the abs sensor and making a cover plate with a breather nipple to attach the hose to?

I pretty much know what to do with the brakes and have found that the IRO shock mounts are going to force me into a shorter shock unless you know another way?

anyway guys that's it I appreciate you taking the time to read this and offer any advice you can on my issues.

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I'm running a fixed yoke, but a conventional single u-joint shaft right now, and planning on going to a dual cardan (like what you get when you go to sye) in my j10. I just welded the perches where they should be for an sye, and I'm dealing with the vibrations for now. They are bearable.

As for the breather hose. On my first truss I built I simply just made a hole in the truss and ran the breather hose through it.

But what I like better is what I did for my 14 bolt. Just got some brass fittings and sandwiched a small plate with them. Installed some hose from the fitting to the housing, and welded it in place.



As for the shocks. You will need shorter shocks if you plan on using the stock upper mounts. I had no complaints running an 8" travel shock at 4.5" with the lower mounts outboarded as far as possible and at the bottom of the axle tube. Plenty of flex. I was also bumpstopped for 35's.

Before that I have run stock replacement shocks too (6" travel or so) It worked fine for crawling, had enough flex.

stroked88 said:

A "cover" plate wouldnt seal well on the ABS port, since it is only held on by one bolt, but if you were able to make a piece to go down into the housing, mimicking the ABS sensor that would work well, assuming it didnt leak from having gear oil slung into it and then forced out as the air tried to escape. The high clearance shock mounts pretty much force you into a shorter shock. I was running stock length shocks with RuffStuff mounts at 4.5" I dont see any problem in setting the perches at the angle for an SYE if you can do the geometry to find the hypothetical angle of the drive shaft. Also, I would personally just weld the old vent up. That way you dont have a bolt in there that you cant access, in case it ever came loose

Click to expand...

I thought about the oil being flung up to and it migrating up the breather hose too maybe a baffle of some type? just don't want to make another hole. And your right I should just weld up the hole that way no chance of a plug loosening or seepage.

turbobrick said:

My IRO truss has a cut out for the breather and I ran the stock hose with no problems.

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I thought about just running a tube out of the large truss hole as well just wanted a cleaner look and would prefer the breather to leave from the top of the axle, any pics of your set up/ there are not a lot of IRO truss pics out there.

ktm racer 419 said:

I'm running a fixed yoke, but a conventional single u-joint shaft right now, and planning on going to a dual cardan (like what you get when you go to sye) in my j10. I just welded the perches where they should be for an sye, and I'm dealing with the vibrations for now. They are bearable.

As for the breather hose. On my first truss I built I simply just made a hole in the truss and ran the breather hose through it.

But what I like better is what I did for my 14 bolt. Just got some brass fittings and sandwiched a small plate with them. Installed some hose from the fitting to the housing, and welded it in place.

As for the shocks. You will need shorter shocks if you plan on using the stock upper mounts. I had no complaints running an 8" travel shock at 4.5" with the lower mounts outboarded as far as possible and at the bottom of the axle tube. Plenty of flex. I was also bumpstopped for 35's.

Before that I have run stock replacement shocks too (6" travel or so) It worked fine for crawling, had enough flex.

Click to expand...

I like what you did there that looks clean. This is my DD and I can't have it down for long so I considered dealing with the vibration too. I just thought if I shim the pinion angle down as a temporary fix until the funds allow the SYE with the double cardan it might make it tolerable. what are your thought on shims?

Your right about the shocks, Because I need to re-gear my front axle to match the rear I wont be doing much wheeling till then I thought about welding in the IRO shock mounts and taking some angle iron and making some bolt on "drop mounts" for the shocks I have for now until the funds allow. I know it sounds like a lot of "temporary for now" compromises but my goal has to be realized in steps as I have more time than money at current. All of your input is very appreciated guys.

If its not broke down, why not just wait until you can do it all at once? seems like less work. or pick up an axle that will bolt in on the cheap to get you by until you get this one built if it is broke down?

stroked88 said:

If its not broke down, why not just wait until you can do it all at once? seems like less work. or pick up an axle that will bolt in on the cheap to get you by until you get this one built if it is broke down?

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I am having drive-ability issues with the 35" tires and 3.55 gearing. I want to go to 4.56 gears eventually and first considered the Chrysler 8.25 axle but for me after research the ford axle is a no brainer especially finding one with limited slip and 4.10 gears, Waiting till I round up the extra $250.00 bucks for a SYE and used front driveline is an option but if i wait till I get every thing that can be done to make this the ultimate install It will never get in. Putting it in now will improve my daily use as it is now. Remember I have plenty of time. My idea to shim the axle is that I can take them out when the SYE goes in.

there is really no need to make a cover plate for the ABS sensor. just clip the wires and leave it in there.

I have come to the realization That I will have to install a SYE at the same time with this axle if I am going to be satisfied with the result. Even if I could accurately figure the correct angle that the pinion will need to be set with the SYE I cannot see safely operating the jeep with the degree of shims to lower the pinion to run without one temporarily.

I would like to know what you guys ting about drive shaft choices. I have a 5.5 lift and with an SYE and the ford 8.8 will I be able to use a front XJ drive shaft? Or will I have to use a longer one from a Grand Cherokee?