Key Cylinder, going bad?

Over the last few months (perhaps its been a year now), I have not been able to rotate my key all the way clockwise till it stops to start the car. I have to slowly rotate it from the "On" to the "start" position waiting for the starter to engage. This was no problem and got use to it. But now, there is another dead spot in my ignition. After starting and the key rotates back to the on position the motor will turn off / die. I have to quickly torque it just a hair back and the Jeep will come back to life. if I dont do it fast enough I will have to re-start the jeep and try again.

So I guess I know there is something wrong with my key ignition cylinder (not even sure if that's the right name for it). but can i fix it by a cleaning? may it just be dirty and can I shoot some electronic cleaning spray down into the key slot in hope that it may fix the problem? or is this a known problem and the only thing I can do is get a new one? I hate to have two different keys, can you have the new one configured for your current key?

Thanks.

Read this:

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/1990-ignition-tumbler-suddenly-hard-turn-152825/#post2098598

Replacements are not costly, I did my 89 a few months ago. I replaced the switch and lock at the same time figuring if one is worn both may need service. Mine bound up in the "RUN" position and I had to make a bee line home and pull the coil wire to shut it off. Do it before your stranded somewhere and have to be towed!

So looks like a brand new one is about $40

http://www.quadratec.com/products/55216_115.htm

this is what I would need right? Seems like for a 95 there is a very specific Ignition Cylinder.

And my guess is once I do swap it out is there any way to have the tumblers changed by a lock smith for my old keys to work in it? or are they fixed?

Edit: well that's the ignition cylinder... i don't think that actually would be bad but its the switch. i have a 95 and there appears to be a gaping hole in what is available for the 95 and 96. should i replace both? or just try to find the switch?

Edit 2: from Rock Auto "STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # US240T" http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1006076&cc=1180268

So should I replace both? the ignition switch and the key cylinder? i don't have any problems with the key, there are just dead spots when it will start and run.

Thanks!

The ignition pictured above for the '95-'96 models is a little difficult to work with. It's an old AMC system, and the housing on the column is brittle plastic. Inside that plastic are some gears that need lubrication and are likely part of your problem.

The rest of the symptoms sound more like a failed drive cam on the rear of the actual lock cylinder, a very common failure on this type of ignition. It is possible to key the new ignition to match your old key.

The replacement cylinders that I stock are uncoded so I can quickly match them to an existing key. I would recommend calling around to your local locksmith shops, and ask them to service the gears in the housing and replace the ignition. It's best to do this now before the lock actually fails and makes the job much, much harder and more expensive.

So sounds like I should replace both at the same time. So I should be able to take a New Key cylinder (does it have to specify as uncoded?) to a lock smith with a copy of my current key. once that's done just replace both.

Edit: I dont need to go through the process like the 88 do it? http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=939364&highlight=ignition+lock+removal

Mine will be more like the 96 right? http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/04/1996-jeep-cherokee-blower-inop.html

It is like the second one. My suggestion would be to remove your old cylinder yourself if you are comfortable with the process. Take it to a local locksmith and ask them to decode it so they can make a 100% correct key. Then, check that key in your doors and hatch. Provided that it works perfectly, then have them key a cylinder to the decoded combo.

The new cylinder does not have to be uncoded, but it is better for cost and ease of keying that it is. Some off-brand cylinders are extremely difficult to disassemble once they are coded, so uncoded is highly preferred. Your local lock shop should have them for less than half the cost you posted earlier.

When you have the cylinder out of the housing, lubricate down inside the cavity that the cylinder came out of, as well as around the base of the two metal shafts that stick out the back. Also lubricate inside the steering column where the lock housing interfaces. I always recommend Tri-Flow or any other greaseless lubricant (WD40 is not a lubricant).

funny how right after you purchase the items you no longer have that problem... ordered both the key cylinder and switch off rockauto, and the next hour I needed to take a trip. had no problems. O well its 400 miles from hitting 200,000 so most likely will need it anyway.

I will call up around the lock smith shops and see what they can do.

Thanks!