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Control Arm Bushings

dktool

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Covina
I have purchased replacement LCA bushings to install this week in my 186k mile 98' XJ

Any tip, tricks, or advise beyond the obvious R&R of the arms ?

I am using MOOG K3131 bushings (standard oem type stuff)
 
My tip would be to take those back and get the whole arm replacements. Those bushings suck to replace in the factory stamped control arms. You could get some cheap ones at the local junkyard. Or place a want ad in the socal chapter. I am sure some of those guys may have some take offs laying around.
 
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I have a set of LCAs you can have but I'm in NorCal. You'll either have to have them shipped or if you happen to be here, come pick them up. You can use them either as is or as cores to put your new bushings in so your jeep isn't out of service during that time.
 
My tip would be to take those back and get the whole arm replacements. Those bushings suck to replace in the factory stamped control arms. You could get some cheap ones at the local junkyard. Or place a want ad in the socal chapter. I am sure some of those guys may have some take offs laying around.

I replaced my bushings a while back and they are a pain since they are something that never gets touched. Next time around I am buying another set of arms with bushings in them already. Plus, the arms are pretty thin metal and may as well replace them as the cost isn't really that much higher.
 
The WJ arms have a bend in them for bigger tires so you don't "rub" when you turn... Find Low range 2 on here and ask him about his. It's a good mod to do cause doing a whole new arm can be cheaper than the bushings
 
. It's a good mod to do cause doing a whole new arm can be cheaper than the bushings

I replaced the bushings only on my MJ...in retrospect I would either just replace the whole arm an/or go the WJ route. I was in a hurry and took them down to my "friend" to press out, press in the new bushings. It took him 10 minutes. He charged me $80. He's still my friend, but I don't take anything to him anymore. So OEM bushings and press out/press in cost about $140. I could have bought new adjustable aftermarket arms with bushings in for that.
 
I did it without a press of any kind besides my vice and it was not fun. I basically had to destroy the old ones to get them out and use a couple small slices of pipe to press in the new ones with the vice. But unless your crafty and have a lot of spare time I would just buy a new set like most people recommended.
 
The R&R on my stock arms was a piece of cake using a press and an assortment of 'accessories'....PVC pipe section cut in half and length cut to fit snugly in the arm to keep it from collapsing during R&R, and various pieces of exhaust tubing or old bearing races to fit on or around the bushings.
Instead of a press, a length of threaded rod, big washers and nuts could be used to R&R the bushings.
I should've taken some pics...
 
I did my upper and lower control arm bushings last summer and it was pretty easy using a BFH and some exhaust pipe. I took both upper and lower bushings to a muffler shop and had them expand the pipe to just fit over the flange on each bushing.
So we would:
1) spray p-oil on the control arm and bushing
2) place muffler pipe on concrete with appropriate side facing up
3) rest control arm on pipe, with the large, flanged side of bushing resting in exhaust pipe
4) A couple of sharp whacks would remove them easily.
5) NOTE: We only removed 1 control arm from vehicle at a time and it made it easier to line things back up. We still had to use ratchet straps around the axle at times.
6) We made a tool using thread stock, washers and ball joint tool sleeves to remove the bushings on the axle. They were harder to get out than the control arm bushings.


The only reason I could see buying the whole arms would be to upgrade to WJ arms. The nice thing about replacing your own bushings is that you can upgrade to polyurethane.
If anyone needs it, I can take a pic of our muffler pipe tool....
 
We made a tool using large washers, thread stock and the sleeves from a ball joint press kit for the axle bushing housing.
 
UPDATE:

I took the majority opinion option and install a new set of stock style lower arms with the bushings already installed.

I did not see the need to go the WJ route as I do not have any issue with my 31" tires rubbing, my wheel backspace prevents that.

Thanks for the advise, now it's on to removing the frozen leaf spring front mounting bolts..................... advise ?? (penetrating oil and heat ?)
 
Yup, penetrating oil and heat... Sometimes you just have to remember that you can cut a hole to access the weld nut in the frame. After so long I just cut my spring out and replaced the nut...
 
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