Brake upgrade

Ok, I have an 94 4 door XJ and the brakes SUCK! I have a 4 1/2 inch lift running 34" tires, locked front and rear and can get this rig to go just about anywhere I want, but I just cant get it to stop worth a darn and my brake light is always on. Suggestions for quick, easy upgrades without going to rear discs (not in the plan just yet) or spending crazy money. Thoughts? Thanks!

I'm going to move this to Mod Tech for ya, this kind of question is likely to get more attention in that sub-forum :thumbup:

you can mod the prop valve, though I'm not exactly sure what.

ZJ disc swap IS quick and easy, and with 34" tires thats what your going to need.

Sure, you can mess with the prop valve, change out the brake booster, ditch abs if you have it to just give it brakes without the pump. But at the end of the day your still over tired for a stock setup.

The brake light usually comes on with a loss of fluid or low fluid. Have you checked all the calipers/ master cyliders for leaks? have you checked your fluid level? have you bled the brakes or changed the fluid in the last say... ever?

for what its worth, the disc brake swap is easy as hell. If you have to go through the rear end and replace parts, like drums/shoes/springs and master cylinders id consider this...

My swap cost me just over $200. I used junk yard backing plates and calipers, then bought brand new rotors, pads and ebrake spring kit for I think $225 total cost.

But, it just sounds like poor maintenance and too much tire

you should start with flushing out all of your old fluid, and adding a dual diaphragm booster if your rig isnt already equipped with one.

You have a leak or you need to adjust your rear drum brakes if the brake light is on all the time. The rears probably aren't even working if it's been on for a long time.

Breezio69 said:

ZJ disc swap IS quick and easy, and with 34" tires thats what your going to need.

Sure, you can mess with the prop valve, change out the brake booster, ditch abs if you have it to just give it brakes without the pump. But at the end of the day your still over tired for a stock setup.

The brake light usually comes on with a loss of fluid or low fluid. Have you checked all the calipers/ master cyliders for leaks? have you checked your fluid level? have you bled the brakes or changed the fluid in the last say... ever?

for what its worth, the disc brake swap is easy as hell. If you have to go through the rear end and replace parts, like drums/shoes/springs and master cylinders id consider this...

My swap cost me just over $200. I used junk yard backing plates and calipers, then bought brand new rotors, pads and ebrake spring kit for I think $225 total cost.

But, it just sounds like poor maintenance and too much tire

Click to expand...

Any good write ups on this? What model axle did you do this on?

fsj-earl said:

Any good write ups on this? What model axle did you do this on?

Click to expand...

There are a few great write ups done by other members on here, just google xj disc brake swap, you will find many threads, some better than others.

mine i believe is off a 97 zj with a dana 35 axle. tear the axle down, and snag the backing plates, make sure you get the levers for the ebrake too, mine were missing on the ones i grabbed and didnt realize it till i did the swap a month later. also check that the calipers arent frozen from sitting by taking some hand clamps and compressing them before you pull them, i had to check two before i found some that werent froze up.

Its very simple as long as you know how to pull the axle shafts out (which you should know anyway having a c clip axle) plus it lets you check out your gears and diff for wear and tear (preventative maintenance)

if the brake light is on there is a problem in the system. Fix it before you go about upgrading it.

I have no problems with my brakes on 35" tires and a stock single diaphragm renix era brake booster.

87manche said:

I have no problems with my brakes on 35" tires and a stock single diaphragm renix era brake booster.

Click to expand...

You have extremely low standards for braking.

MoparManiac said:

You have extremely low standards for braking.

Click to expand...

Yeah that's pretty bad.

Just for a little reference, this is just a "seat of the pants" comparison. But id say on a full stomp on the pedal (emergency situation braking) my jeep on 33's with the rear disc swap stops within about a car length or so of what my Eclipse GST does. It brakes HARD!

rear disk swap doesnt really do much for braking power unless your drum brakes were toast/malfunctioning.
i barely noticed an improvement with rear disks, brake booster, prop valve, and master cyl upgrade. wj swap was a definite improvement.

MoparManiac said:

You have extremely low standards for braking.

Click to expand...

or maybe I just have properly working brakes.

Vanimal said:

rear disk swap doesnt really do much for braking power unless your drum brakes were toast/malfunctioning.
i barely noticed an improvement with rear disks, brake booster, prop valve, and master cyl upgrade. wj swap was a definite improvement.

Click to expand...

You are probably correct, it was probably ditching all the ABS stuff that made the difference for me. But it was a major improvement in my rig

Vanimal said:

rear disk swap doesn't really do much for braking power unless your drum brakes were toast/malfunctioning.
I barely noticed an improvement with rear disks, brake booster, prop valve, and master cyl upgrade. WJ swap was a definite improvement.

Click to expand...

X2
The front brakes do the majority of the braking and the best results will come from bigger front calipers and rotors.
Other than not having to adjust the rear brakes anymore,The biggest benefit I see with the ZJ discs is not having water or mud effect them them as much as the stock drum brakes
Start saving for the WJ or Vanco conversion.

Wj was night and day difference on my 4750lb jeep

I changed all my fluids, put on new rear shoes, cleaned the drums, rotors, calipers, and front pads. There is a MARKED improvement. Just about put went through the windshield when I hit the brakes on the way out of the garage.

Breezio69 said:

You are probably correct, it was probably ditching all the ABS stuff that made the difference for me. But it was a major improvement in my rig

Click to expand...

that or fresh fluid. probably made less of a difference for me since i didnt have abs and i recently flushed my brakes before the swap.

I swapped my 93 booster for a 95 and it bolted in and difference was night and day. The 95-96 is bolt in, after that you need a spacer.

I just did this with all new lines, pads, calipers ect ect. In. My renix rig something went bad, very slowly. I gradually lost pedal stiffness over a few months..power went from good to ok, down to down right dangerous to stop at highway speeds, I used to use my ebrake in conjunction with the brakes.
Sorta felt like a air bubble got in the line or something and I wouldn't doubt it, my stock lines were showing cooper and if bent would get wet(brake fluid).

I did a 95 booster, Durango master, Chevy lines up front, Yj rear. Prestones synthetic dot3 fluid. I've got 1 line leak very slightly..where the metal & rubber lines connect on the front driver. But good god it feels great to stop again. Pedal feel is STIFF because the Durango master.
Yes my stopping distance decreased by far over the crapy weak failing system before it. It was non abs btw just had some unknown issue of loosing pressure for some reason.. When the old renix system was in tip top shape, I redid it all minus lines & booster/master, they were good, but didn't have the juice to lock up the tires. Current setup will around 35ish or so. It stops quick..if your looking to stay on the stock brakes I think the Durango master and proper maintenance is the ticket.