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Advice needed: Driver's side camber

B

Bbasso

NAXJA Forum User
Location
South Carolina
Hey all,
after going to a few wheel alignment places, the drivers side camber is off with no adjustments to correct it.

Thoughts?:idea:

Then the noise from the front axle... sounds like wheel bearings. And the slightest popping when full lock turns at slow speeds.

One mechanic thought if the bearing(s) are toasted enough it could cause the camber issue.

Thoughts?:idea:


So if you owned this XJ, what would do? :looney:
 
I'd jack up one side of the front axle, just until the tire is off the ground. Grab the tire at 12 O'clock and 6 O'clock and rock it, moderate force. You can feel the play in the hub bearings. There really shouldn't be any play there or less than a few thousands that would be hard to feel.

The I'd pry up on the tire and look at the ball joints with a flashlight. Kind of bounce the tire, keeping in mind it is on a jack and don't overdo it. If you see a lot of motion in the ball joint, usually the top, maybe both, they are likely seriously warn.

While I had it up there, I'd jam something through the axle yoke (a long 3/8 inch socket extension) to stop the yoke from rotating, then gently rotate the tire until it is stopped by the whatever you put through the yoke. Using the same flashlight, look really closely at the rubber rings near the U joint caps. Much if any motion there and your U-joints are likely on the way out. A lot of motion there and your needle bearings are likely toast or rust dust.
 
2mhwnqt.jpg


so help me understand what parts I might need to replace...
#25b
#30
#36
anything else?
 
I'm ready to order the parts, but not completely sure what I'll need, I'd rather order more then not have enough... I can't afford downtime, this is my DD.

I'm thinking:
2 upper ball joints. -(Moog K3134T Upper Ball Joint)
2 lower ball joints. -(Moog K3161T Lower Ball Joint)
2 hubs. -(Timken 513084 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly)
2 Ujoints. -(DANA SPICER® 260X Series U-Joint)
2 bottles of Mobil1 gear lube 75-90W

What else would I need while it's apart? Basic rebuild...
Will I need to get wheel studs or does the hubs come with them?
 
Btw, I spoke with the wheel alignment place and he said that my camber was off most likely due to the ball joints and shouldn't need any adjustable parts to correct. All of the other numbers were spot on.

I'm looking to make the front end solid and reliable without noises or worries.

Thank you for your help, I realllllly need some.
 
Bbasso said:
I'm ready to order the parts, but not completely sure what I'll need, I'd rather order more then not have enough... I can't afford downtime, this is my DD.

I'm thinking:
2 upper ball joints. -(Moog K3134T Upper Ball Joint)
2 lower ball joints. -(Moog K3161T Lower Ball Joint)
2 hubs. -(Timken 513084 Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly)
2 Ujoints. -(DANA SPICER® 260X Series U-Joint)
2 bottles of Mobil1 gear lube 75-90W

What else would I need while it's apart? Basic rebuild...
Will I need to get wheel studs or does the hubs come with them?
Click to expand...

please help me make a correct list to order today.
I'd like to have all the parts on hand and ready for the weekend.
 
Hubs come with studs.

A small tube of copper anti sieze, to coat the hubs with .
If you can swing it, a lube locker gasket will make things much easier next time.
A can of brakeclean, to hose the housing out with.

How are your UCA bushings?
 
Do you have a ball joint press?

As for ordering new 260x u-joints, I would just look for a good set of used 297x shafts at the j/y and call it good
 
Bbasso said:
try myself first then realize the truth and bring the knuckle to the shop. Is that possible?
Click to expand...
the balljoints don't press into the knuckle, they press into the axle.
you can rent a ball joint press from oriley's or autozone, i suggest doing so.
 
get 297x shafts from the JY. please dont bother with the 260s!!!
 
If its still off, youve got a bent/tweaked axle. Hardly unbeleiveable when you consider what these xj's go thru.

A proper alignment shop can fix this, by tack welding onto the axle housing in specific places, the axle moves with every tack.
 
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