Rock Equipment Tie Rod Flip Kit

I am in the process of performing a WJ brake/steering (Going OTK) upgrade & Goferit inserts seems to be the way most accomplish the OTK part; but I do not like the Idea of drilling a 3/4" hole in the knuckle or using the lock nut on the tie rod instead of a castle nut/cotter pin.
Has anyone tried using the rock equipment tie rod flip kit?
http://ok4wd.com/rock-equipment-tie-rod-flip-kit.html
Instead of using the Goferit weld in spacers?
The price is not much different than using Goferit inserts after adding in the purchase of the 3/4" drill bit.

OR drill a 5/8" hole, have it tapered for GM ends, use the Synergy Suspension double adjuster ($45 + shipping) on the tie rod so you can bend it for clearance as required and have a system that works more or less the same as a stock JK setup and costs a little bit less, is stronger, and cheaper to repair.
At least that's where I'm going.

Devilfrog said:

OR drill a 5/8" hole, have it tapered for GM ends, use the Synergy Suspension double adjuster ($45 + shipping) on the tie rod so you can bend it for clearance as required and have a system that works more or less the same as a stock JK setup and costs a little bit less, is stronger, and cheaper to repair.
At least that's where I'm going.

Click to expand...

I dont follow.... why not just bend the tube and tap it or weld in plain inserts? I guess I dont see where it would be cheaper, stronger, or cheaper to repair.

whitexj98 said:

I dont follow.... why not just bend the tube and tap it or weld in plain inserts? I guess I dont see where it would be cheaper, stronger, or cheaper to repair.

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If you just weld in regular inserts an then bend it. When you rotate it to adjust toe, the bend will be wrong. The double adjuster allows the tie rod to stay the same.

rockclimber said:

If you just weld in regular inserts an then bend it. When you rotate it to adjust toe, the bend will be wrong. The double adjuster allows the tie rod to stay the same.

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Ahh.. that make sense... I guess you could still use regular insterts but to adjust you would have to pull a tie rod end and rotate it... a pain.. but thats also what I have to do with my posion spyder tie rod due to them using right hand tie rod ends on both ends.....

Devilfrog said:

OR drill a 5/8" hole, have it tapered for GM ends, use the Synergy Suspension double adjuster ($45 + shipping) on the tie rod so you can bend it for clearance as required and have a system that works more or less the same as a stock JK setup and costs a little bit less, is stronger, and cheaper to repair.
At least that's where I'm going.

Click to expand...

Can't do it, I got a great deal on the JKS tie rod, drag link & lock nuts + I purchased the 4 WJ tie rod ends.
I am just a bit leery about using the Goferit Lock Nut instead of the usual castle nut & cotter pin (I also do not like the Idea of drilling the supplied nut or grinding slots to fit a cotter pin in it like some have done).
If no one can vouch for the quality of the Rock Equipment Tie Rod Flip Kit My next plan of attack is to first look for a castle nut with a larger flange than standard, drill out the knuckle for the insert then drill down an addition 1/8" with a larger bit in order to recess the insert, Weld it in place, grind it smooth top & bottom then use the castle nut/cotter pin.
Since my rig only sees beach & winter weather use (NO ROCKS) I should have just went UTK & saved my self from this stuff !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah, I have the WJ parts as well, the ball joints I can use ... the TRE DRE's are now going to get sold.

I'm having my knuck's drilled and tapered for the GM ends OTK like I mentioned and The JKS spacers welded on while I'm here at work, picking them up on the way home Wednesday. Then it's just bolt and go for stock GM TRE's. No inserts, nothin. Ironicly I also happen to have three Jeep taper inserts and two GM taper inserts and was weary about the same issue. SO now I've yet another purchase under my belt I don't have a use for. I had originally planned to use WJ TRE's and GM DRE's but the Guys at Karnage Fabworks showed me this while discussing how modding a stock JK Tie Rod would be perfect for my needs. With my planned set up, I can make the Tie Rod whatever shape it needs to be for clearance, and when it's time to adjust it I just get the first adjustment close enough and fine tune it at one end without having to change the position of the Tie Rod.

I use these tie-rod flip inserts here:

http://blackmagicbrakes.com/Jeep_Co-Op.php

I have used the goferit inserts as well as 2-3 other brands that have come and go, but these have been the best quality and fit.

Not to mention having an endorsement from Blaine at Black Magic Brakes goes a long way..

cal said:

I use these tie-rod flip inserts here:

http://blackmagicbrakes.com/Jeep_Co-Op.php

I have used the goferit inserts as well as 2-3 other brands that have come and go, but these have been the best quality and fit.

Not to mention having an endorsement from Blaine at Black Magic Brakes goes a long way..

Click to expand...

this only works if you are using stock size tapers.... because if you use Blaine's inserts and then ream them out for the GM 1-ton stuff he will kill you


but yes, these are the best quality part.

yes but the OP is looking to use WJ ends, which are stock size tapers.

cal said:

I use these tie-rod flip inserts here:

http://blackmagicbrakes.com/Jeep_Co-Op.php

I have used the goferit inserts as well as 2-3 other brands that have come and go, but these have been the best quality and fit.

Not to mention having an endorsement from Blaine at Black Magic Brakes goes a long way..

Click to expand...

Do they need to be welded in like the Goferits? Even it they do not require welding, Is welding them in a good Idea?
Thanks in advance!

I'm not positive, .. i had Blaine install them for me.

Hit him up and ask. [email protected] or (949) 310-2727.

garr said:

Do they need to be welded in like the Goferits? Even it they do not require welding, Is welding them in a good Idea?
Thanks in advance!

Click to expand...

yes. they must be welded. knuckle inserts should always be welded, and these ones require it. and because of the design, they actually have enough material to get a good weld.

when he did mine, he tig welded both sides with no filler to keep it flat.