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Rear drum brake question

superdave

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NW Tennessee
I know the first thing you'll say is go ahead and do it while you're in there...
My wheel cylinders are leaking badly in the rear of my 97. The shoes have plenty of life left but I need to install new cylinders. Can this be done without removing anything else in the brake system? I have never messed with drum brakes before. Would like to do the disk conversion but funds are low. And are the rear brakes the same for the D35 as they are for the 8.25? I have the 8.25.
 
Unfortunately the rear brakes have to come completly apart to do the wheel cylinders. They are fairly simple to get apart and back together. Just do one side at a time incase you need a referance on what goes where and how. As far as D35 vs 8.25 goes. Yes for the most part they are the same.
 
I just did both of mine. Easy, really. Drum brakes are intimidating to look at with various springs, cables, levers, etc., holding everything just so, but it works.

The scariest part is removing the small bolts that hold on the cylinder and praying they don't round off... Shoot it with some PB Blaster half an hour before you get started and use a six-point socket and you should be OK.

My cylinders were $9 or so each. I would also get one or two of those spring kits...probably another $5 each. Don't forget the brake cleaner to get rid of all the spilled brake fluid.

Edit: Oh yeah, in case you are getting new shoes, your Jeep might come with 9- or 10-inch drums. I don't know which is more common. I had 9-inch... 2000 XJ Sport 4x4.
 
You can do it without taking it all apart. you will have to take a couple springs off then pry shoes apart. can be done but if there leaking reallly bad then shoes are saturated and will give you problems like wheels locking up and such. i recommend you do shoes while your in there.
 
FYI if the cylinders are leaking to the point that the shoes have gotten wet or damp they are ruined and should be replaced. Shoes are cheep (like $20), and you have to take it all apart anyway. I would also think about replacing the adjusters while you're in there as well they to are cheep, and it's good insurance for a properly working drum system.
 
Glad I don't live in Ohio, I think my cylinders were ~$3 each.

Add a couple of speed bleeders to finish it up and make the overall job that much easier.
 
If you're changing the cylinders, soak the fittings where the hard lines connect to the cylinders real good with a penetrant like PB Blaster. Multiple times if you have the time. Here in PA, chances of getting that little ferrule to spin are slim to none. Be ready to repair the brake line when it starts to turn with that little bugger.
 
If you're changing the cylinders, soak the fittings where the hard lines connect to the cylinders real good with a penetrant like PB Blaster. Multiple times if you have the time. Here in PA, chances of getting that little ferrule to spin are slim to none. Be ready to repair the brake line when it starts to turn with that little bugger.

Amen to this. Guaranteed you will break the hard line to the wheel cylinders when you do this. I just did mine a month ago. I had the proper flare nut wrench and even got the nut turning but it still broke the rusted steel lines. If you start out figuring you will break a lot of stuff and you have the extra parts, you'll be a lot happier. All of the brake parts are really pretty cheap. Just do one wheel at a time so you have the other for reference. There's a few youtube videos around if you search. I did shoes, drums, cylinders, adjusters, hard lines on axles etc. It took me a couple of hours on each taking my time etc. I had to buy a double flare tool and some brake line to make a few pieces. You don't have to do that if you buy the ready-made lines but there crazy expensive compared to doing it yourself.
Lots of help on these forums so as long as you're not in a hurry, go ahead. If it's your daily driver, I would hesitate doing it unless you're sure you can get it done on a weekend. You don't need that pressure!
 
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