BIG project, too big?

djrethoret · Aug 8, 2012

So heres the deal. I went out and bought myself an 87 comanche 2wd (my first comanche, sixth jeep). It runs like hot poop, and the trans is wiped so i bought it with the intention on doing a swap of some kind. I stumbled across a wrecked 91 XJ 4wd and thought, this is perfect. I started ripping some parts off today and it suddenly dawned on me the project I was undertaking. Mainly im here to say, HELP! I am very familiar with the HO jeeps, not so much with the renix jeeps, ive had 5 Xj's prior to this MJ, all well built (by me) and all wheeled hard (by me) so im not exactly a newby. I would like to know if anyone else has attempted a renix to HO swap using a cherokee and if so what all is needed what kind of time frame do i need to give myself to get this done and any useful information would be grately appreciated. I had it in my head that this would be a weekend job and im starting to think i was gravely mistaken. The end game for this jeep is to be an arizona backroads exploration vehicle, about five and a half inches of lift and 35's, locked and loaded.

djrethoret · Aug 8, 2012

you can delete this i guess if i would have looked further down the page i would have found many of these answers.

cruiser54 · Aug 9, 2012

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.
　
Revised 07/24/2012
　

shelbyluvv · Aug 10, 2012

Swap everything, build a adapter harness from the XJ dash harness to the MJ rear harness, replace the RENIX fuel sender with a HO MJ one and you are done.

You can leave the RENIX fuel sender but your fuel gauge will read backwards.

djrethoret · Aug 15, 2012

thank you

djrethoret · Aug 17, 2012

well the 91 just went off to the shop so i can start tearing it apart. i think i should have the full swap done by the end of September at the latest. pics to come.

AZXJ · Aug 19, 2012

It's not difficult just time consuming! If you need anything let me know, I'm just down the street.

Dave
480-600-9174

djrethoret · Aug 24, 2012

anyone know where to get a u-bolt elimination kit for an 8.8?

87manche · Aug 25, 2012

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/2PLUS.html

kastein · Sep 4, 2012

No need to do an HO swap unless you want to, that transmission will work perfectly with your RENIX ECU/TCU pair (ECU doesn't matter in this case) and all the other parts will bolt up, the only thing you will have to worry about is swapping the soft brake lines and calipers along with the d30 (RENIX era and early 2wd front brakes are different from 91+ 4wd ones) and having your driveshaft shortened or shortening it yourself.

If you WANT to do an HO swap, it's totally doable, especially using 94 and earlier donor parts and harnesses etc (GM column makes things easier since all MJs had those.)

djrethoret · Nov 27, 2012

well i got this swap done i quess i might as well post up the progress here for you people to look at.

here it goes.

The comanche pretty much how i got it. 87' long bed 2wd nothing special.

The interior becauses bench seats suck

the donor jeep pretty much the way i got it. 91 sport country 4x4 2 door in a front end collision, rebuilt motor and rebuilt trans.

ripped its guts out

got everything all cleaned up

harness (no pics of the dash with harness sorry.

djrethoret · Nov 27, 2012

my old man helping me get the motor ready to pull.

up in the air she goes

out with the old

shes just full of herself

getting ready for center shift and 4wd shifter

installed, im sure most of you know this but a dimple will have to be put in the dog house in order to install the 4wd shift linkage

all my helpers having some beverages and poking things

getting the dash and dash harness installed

pretty much intalled

djrethoret · Nov 27, 2012

painted the motor up

we all know what this is about

the best part of the job.

starting to look like a truck again.

and there she is moving under her own power yet still without a front axle

djrethoret · Nov 27, 2012

the donated d30

4.5" RC cherokee lift, this did not work exactly right.

not right but lifted.

upgraded the stearing

djrethoret · Nov 27, 2012

my 8.25 that was used to do the SOA

and there she is all lifted.

There are a lot of pictures that got left out here but you get the general idea. all and all it took me and my buddy eddie with some scattered help from my dad and my buddy nick about 6 days to do this swap. big thanks to eddie because i would've never gotten the electrical done without his help and by help i mean him doing it for me, awesome tech. feel free to ask any questions you might have

the comanche out at payette draw, not really up to the task yet but i had fun

wavingpine11 · Nov 28, 2012

Superb transformation--apparently NOT too big a job for you and your crew! :worship:

I saw that weld on the exhaust manifold you so nicely photographed and was wondering what technique you used to make the weld (stick/MIG/TIG/what wire or rod, etc). My '98 recently came down with a case of that crack and I considered welding it, but was a bit apprehensive given the comments I've seen about a generally low success rate, and wasn't sure what alloy to weld it with either. I'm by no means claiming to be an especially accomplished welder, but I have access to a quality MIG welder and also a cheap HF stick welder and would consider going at it.

--wp11

kastein · Nov 28, 2012

I've fluxcore welded a few manifolds up exactly like that in the last few years and never had an issue. Even if it does crack again in a few years, you're out what, an afternoon, a $6 manifold gasket, and 30c worth of welding wire to weld it up again? Vs. Buying a new one for $150+? I'll take those odds!

That MJ swap came out awesome! Another HO MJ on the road... they didn't make many of em at the factory. Those are my favorite bucket seats, too, they came in my 91 MJ Eliminator.

wavingpine11 · Nov 28, 2012

So did you use wire that was intended for steel or stainless steel? I could use fluxcore or non-fluxcore (I only have experiece running it with non-fluxcore using shielding gas) but I want to use the right type of wire the first time. Although the manifold has a rusty looking patina on it, I thought I had read that it was stainless system. Do you recall whether your fluxcore wire was intended for regular steel or stainless?

Another thing that was on my mind was whether I should expect any of the rusty old manifold bolts to snap off if when I try to remove them. Did you (or the OP!) have any issues there? Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread--just trying to pick up some info that will make my life easier and give me the greatest chance of succes the first time aorund when I do the job.

kastein · Nov 28, 2012

I used regular steel fluxcore wire, I'm sure mig wire for steel would work fine too.

I always end up cutting at least one of the bolts at the donur due to rust, just tack weld in a 5/16 or 3/8 (I forget) grade8 bolt of the right length. They pound out fairly easily with a 3lb bfh and a punch. In fact looking at dj's pic, he or someone else has already done that to his manifold.

wavingpine11 · Nov 28, 2012

Thanks for the info, Kastein. Much appreciated.

BIG project, too big?

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