Drivetrain noise after lift

I purchased a set of OME-CS033RB leaf springs from Dirk at DPG. These packs were supposed to give me about 3.5" of lift in the rear. I got 5" in the rear from these springs. Today I installed OME sport shocks, pulled it to a totally flat road and re-measured. Dirk swears that there is no way I'm getting 5" over stock. He said maybe 5" compared to my inverted leaf packs. However, I'm measuring 11" from axle to frame above bumpstop and 22" from bottom of flare to center of wheel hub.

When I took it for a ride, I was very impressed. Especially since the front needs to come up 3" and is running stock shocks. The ride was very smooth.

I tested for vibrations at various speeds and felt nothing. I thought I was gonna get away without any issues, until I went on the expressway. Once I hit 70 and let off the gas, I can hear something rattle or slip. It really only does it at higher speeds. I'm pretty sure it's the drive shaft slipping or something. I verified that the exhaust is not hitting anything. I'm not sure what to do. I have a H&T and new drive shaft ready to install, but I have a D35 and read that it won't work. I was going to save it for when I do an axle swap.

Does it sound like the drive shaft to you guys? What are my options?


It should be noted that the front is not complete. My coil springs will be here this week. So the front is 3" lover than the back.

sound like the slip shaft to me ... at 5" you're at the extreme limit (and likely well past it) of the stock shaft and it's probably got a fair bit of play when not under load (when you let off the gas).

Had an old Bronco with a worn out slip shaft do the same thing ... slight vibration on the hoighway but when you got on or off the gas it would rumble. Getting on the gas was a rumble, POP as vibrated and then bound up under pressure and then just a rumble when letting off the gas. It was quite worn when I replaced it ... quite ... once replaced with a good shaft the issue disappeared with the old shaft.

That does sound like the driveshaft is now too short. Mine was like that when I first lifted it. SYE was my fix but Rubicon Express sells an extended slip yoke you can swap on if you don't want to install your SYE yet.

When you lift the front it will make the back come down a little bit.

http://www.arbusa.com/uploads/PDF/accessorizeYourRig/jeepCherokeeXJ.pdf

According to the above link; The 033RB will give you: 2.75", not 3.5", 3.5" which is available with the 033RA. POI: The axle to leaf 'U'-Bolt nuts need to be rechecked, (In Service Use), after some short miles to insure the torque values have set-up properly. The suggestion to make this check is to remove but one possible variable in order to further pin point, or, towards solving your dilemma.

An "angle finder" tool, (one with a magnetic base), is very helpful to ascertain things. Most hardware stores have 'em, pretty cheap too. By merely placing it on your drive, (propeller), shaft you'll be able to inspect whether, or not, your angle is within correct values.

You may have a propeller shaft 'u'-joint needle bearing set going out on you. One cursory back yard check of the straightness of your shaft is to jack stand your rear axle, and have an associate spin your wheel, that turns your shaft, while you, laying underneath, places a piece of chalk, or some such, and whilst holding steady against it, see if there is a 'lifting-away' from the line you attempt to make during it's spin. Do that in several locations. If straight, well then, it's not a problem. Again, bad needle bearings can cause for weird vibes.

Perhaps you could also create a 'signature' in order to see what year you have, and the improvements/changes you have made, etc.

It looks like you have to be a paid member to get the signature option. I will probably do this soon, as you guys have helped me a lot so far. That said, here is what I have:

2001 XJ Sport, 4-door, only 48k miles, OME-CS033RB leaf springs, OME 60053L shocks in rear, no rear sway-bar, removed HD offroad relocation brackets because I was at 7", running stock shackles, 2" tera-flex coil spacers, extended brake lines front and rear

I torqued the leaf packs and u-bolts to 65 foot pounds with wheels on the ground. I torqued shock lower nut to 55 foot pounds. There is about 10 miles on vehicle since torquing.

The Jeep only has 48k original miles on it. It is super clean. I really don't think the u-joints or shaft are worn.

Dirk also said that the rear will come down some when I raise the front. I can't see it coming down 1.5"s though. But, I don't have the experience to say. Ultimately I want 4" to 4.5"s of lift.

At this point, I need to get the front level and then go from there. Hopefully the rear will come down just enough. Then maybe I should install a TC drop kit until I do the axle swap / H&T install.

Load the back up with some sand bags or something else heavy to help it settle a bit. And 48k wow. However, I would not dismiss worn u-joints.

Talyn said:

Load the back up with some sand bags or something else heavy to help it settle a bit. And 48k wow. However, I would not dismiss worn u-joints.

Click to expand...

I've had it for a year or so. It had 37k on it when I got it. It's from Arizona and pretty sure it was garage kept. When I did the leafs, the bolts broke free with very little effort on the breaker bar. No rust anywhere, not even on nuts and bolts. I love this Jeep. Probably too much.

I have a full gym in my garage - thus the 19.5" arms LOL... I can throw some 45lb plates in the back. This would be a good test too. If I get it down enough, it should help the issue.

Is this safe since I haven't increased the bumpstops yet?

I just got back from scoring four BFG All-Terrain T/A 32x11.50x15's on Ford aluminum rims - $240! I'm gonna clean up and sell the rims on Craigslist.

Anyway, on the way there I threw two 45lb weight plates in the back. It was a little better. On the way back with four tires / rims, I heard and felt nothing. Much better. I measured before unloading and it was sitting at 3.5" lift.

I would just drive around with some wright in the back to break the springs in a bit.