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WJ Knuckle swap on a 2WD ???

High2by

High2by

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Gassaway TN
This is apparently an off the wall question for an off the wall application but here goes....

Obviously this won't be used for crawling in the rocks so don't bash too hard. :D I have plans for a sleeper truck and I want to be able to stop it better than the stock setup will do. I have already swapped in a WJ booster, M/C and prop valve and that did help. I also have an 8.8 with discs for the rear and I have done away with the load sensing valve too.

Here goes.....I have an '89 2WD MJ that I want to swap WJ knuckles and brakes onto. I have a late model 2WD beam I plan on using for the swap. I have the WJ knuckles, Akebono calipers, new pads and WJ cross drilled rotors. I will redrill the bolt pattern on the rotors to match the 5 x 4.5 pattern. I'll also be using the 2001 XJ unit bearings unless there is a better option available.

Question, will I still need the JKS spacer welded to the knuckle?


Thanks.
 
The JKS spacer is meant to correctly line up the u joint on the axis of the ball joints, but that won't apply to your setup. The only other issue I could see coming up is that without the spacer and a XJ hub, will the rotor be spaced out correctly and line up with the caliper. I know some people run the setup with WJ rotors and the hub spacer and all is will. By that theory, without the spacer the rotor would be inboard 1/4" too much.
 
souske said:
The caliper would likely run out of travel, due to the rotor being further in. could assemble and verify.
Click to expand...

I haven't bought the unit bearings. I was kinda wanting to get some opinions before I spent the money but I think you are right about the rotor placement.

foxwar71 said:
The JKS spacer is meant to correctly line up the u joint on the axis of the ball joints, but that won't apply to your setup. The only other issue I could see coming up is that without the spacer and a XJ hub, will the rotor be spaced out correctly and line up with the caliper. I know some people run the setup with WJ rotors and the hub spacer and all is will. By that theory, without the spacer the rotor would be inboard 1/4" too much.
Click to expand...

I thought the main reason for the spacer was for the ujoint too but it's like it's also to line the caliper up.
 
i think 2002 sport trac rotors arent deep enough for use with the spacers, so maybe theyd be ok without them. or drill out wj rotors and unit bearings for 5x4.5.
 
Is there any chance you could consider converting to 5x5 in the back? Perhaps using wheel spacers?

If you find the right set of JK/WJ rims and tires to put on it, then you can run 100% stock parts aside from the rear spacers and front steering links. WJ bearings, knuckles, balljoints, brakes, and use the outer half of a WJ CV shaft assembly (or a 2wd WJ dummy shaft) to keep the unit bearing preloaded. The part number for the stub shaft is 0501 2438AA and apparently the dealership will want a bit over $100 each for them, sounds like a junkyard part to me!
 
Did the JK/WJ's come with a 15 x 8 wheel that looked decent? I hate to get rid of my Canyons but the thought of using all stock parts is enticing.
 
High2by said:
Did the JK/WJ's come with a 15 x 8 wheel that looked decent? I hate to get rid of my Canyons but the thought of using all stock parts is enticing.
Click to expand...

No, stock 15" rims won't fit over the larger calipers. WJ/JK's only came with 16" or 17" rims. You can get an alum 15" rim to fit if it has like 3.5" or less of backspacing. You can get a steelie 15" rim to fit if it has like 4" or less backspacing. Either way, it will require a little cleaning up of the casting on the caliper with a flap wheel on a grinder.
 
The problem is that the offset on JK/WJ wheels is wrong. If you use a conversion in the rear, You will need a plain old spacer in the front or the wheels will have that sucked in look. With that said, I would just use stock parts (WJ unit bearing and all). Or put an entire 2wd WJ front end in, and you would have no need for spacers. IIRC, the WJs had a wheel that was similar to canyons.
 
as I recall (good chance my memory's off) pre 99 unit bearings don't have the right mounting flange offset to make the ujoint line up with the balljoints. Not that that matters in this case... there is a pdf in the FAQ section that shows a comparison of the two bearing styles.
 
kastein said:
as I recall (good chance my memory's off) pre 99 unit bearings don't have the right mounting flange offset to make the ujoint line up with the balljoints. Not that that matters in this case... there is a pdf in the FAQ section that shows a comparison of the two bearing styles.
Click to expand...
correct. however, i think pre 99 xj bearings will be ok for disk location with a redrilled wj rotor without the jks unit bearing spacer, on a 2wd vehicle.
if you use 99+ unit bearings, the rotor may be too close to the inside of the caliper

if i had time, i'd pull my wheel off and check measurements again on the 99+ xj unit bearing. i have a 87? 88? to 99.5 unit bearing as well as the first style of xj unit bearings for when the xj knuckles were 2 piece. (coincidentally, those unit bearings are dimensionally a better fit for a 4wd wj conversion, however i heard the bearings arent as good?)
 
Why does no one ever just keep the WJ unit bearings and redrill them? The WJ guys use XJ stubs with custom inners to convert to ujoints, so I would think using WJ unit bearings would fix all the issues...
 
XJRocket said:
Why does no one ever just keep the WJ unit bearings and redrill them? The WJ guys use XJ stubs with custom inners to convert to ujoints, so I would think using WJ unit bearings would fix all the issues...
Click to expand...

Incorrect, XJ stub shafts are too short for the WJ hubs. There's barely enough threads to put the hub nut on, and thats without the washer behind it. You also can't swap a WJ30 in either, they are much different then our 30's.
 
XJRocket said:
Why does no one ever just keep the WJ unit bearings and redrill them? The WJ guys use XJ stubs with custom inners to convert to ujoints, so I would think using WJ unit bearings would fix all the issues...
Click to expand...
thought about that but the hole size has to be somewhat better than drill press quality for the studs to fit properly. most people aren't going to be able to do that very well.
 
XJRocket said:
http://mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?9323-u-joint-conversion-on-WJ
Click to expand...

Just because people do it doesn't mean it's a good idea. It will go together, but not safely.

I have seen pictures showing the issue (stub is not long enough to go through a washer and still get the cotter pin in) but can't find them.

If you want to risk having the nut come off and the bearing separate while you are on the road, that's all cool, it's your life, but try to avoid running over anyone else while you're rolling/sliding across the road on 3 wheels.
 
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