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D-rings on a stock bumper

foxwar71

foxwar71

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Foxboro, MA
I got sick of having a hitch hanging under my rear bumper and I dislike using the factory tow hooks. I've seen the front hooks poke holes in a brand new strap, plus its a pain in the ass getting a strap on/off with those stupid retaining tabs. I decided to cut up some 3/4" plate and weld it to the bumper. For extra holding strength, the tabs go thru the bumper skin and are welded on the backside too ;) I'm on the lookout for a stock tire carrier for the rear, it would be nice to get my cargo area back and would look nice with the other mods I think. Up front, I'd like to add a simple hoop like the JCR bumpers, maybe a pair of aux lights.


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i've been wanting to see someone do this! i like the look and want to do this to my rig. did you use stock bumper brackets or did you use tow hook brackets with the extra large bolt hole thats further down the frame rail?


oh yeah, and those tail lights are :puke:
 
When you say welded on the backside to, did you tie into anything besides the bumper skin?
 
Foxwar

No, you didn't want to do that. Cherokee bumpers are not very strong, and they are bolted to the stock brackets by 2 weak bolts a side. Not exactly something you want to put 6k or more of pulling force on. I give you credit for trying, but you wouldn't be the 1st one to do this and pull the bumper off.

They make a bolt on D Ring setup for the Cherokee front that bolts on to the factory Tow Hook Brackets. You loose a tiny bit of clearance, but it is safe.

In order for this to be safe, the plates you welded in need to have passed though the bumper to a tow hook bracket that bolts to the frame, preferably in more than the 3 points that the bumper is mounted to.

In the back, there is a manufacture that makes a "Tail Bone". You can make your own. You need to make new bumper mounts that also tie into the frame at the bottom. Your plates then weld to those and pass though the bumper.

The receiver is the same deal. It needs to be tied into both right and left subframes to be safe.
 
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That may be, but all he posted were pictures and a basic description of what he did. Some nOOb will read this and weld some tabs on their bumper and wonder why the bumper pulled off on the 1st pull.

Foxwar, got details?
 
On my 98' with a Rugged Ridge tube bumper I got cheap, I made brackets out of 3/8" that extend back and anchor in with a 3/4" bolt and use the front 3 bolts. I double plated the bottom half with another piece of 3/8" that yields 3/4" where the D-ring goes thru.
 
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I've got a similar rear bumper on mine with a peice of box tubbing behind it, doesn't tie in and probabley wont because I wanna ditch the whole bumper..
 
What do you need those for? Just loop the tow strap through one of the slots on the grill...duh.
 
As for the mounts, trust me they aren't going anywhere!! Stock look, non-stock performance. Front bumper has 5/16 plate on both sides that capture the three 10.9 10mm bolts, three Gr8 7/16 bolts, and the large Gr8 5/8 bolt in the back. 2x2x1/4 between the two sides, 3/16 inner plates and steering box support on each side too. Rear bumper has my tried and true style of 2x4x1/4 rect tubing sleeved inside the rear framerails. Five Gr8 1/2 bolts on the bottom and four 10.9 10mm bolts per side, again with 2x2x1/4 to connect them and the hitch reciever notched into the middle.


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That just sees like an aweful lot of work to keep the stock bumpers when you could have used one more piece of 2x6 and had .25" thick bumpers.

It does look good tho.

:dunno:
 
I've been waiting for this thread for a long time :jester:
 
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