Need Some Help Bleeding Brakes

The video below shows whats going on. I've already run about 12oz of brake fluid through the rear passenger side and it's brand new clean brake fluid coming out. When I first turn the nipple I get a solid flow of break fluid for about 20 seconds then a steady stream of huge bubbles. Is air getting in as I'm bleeding them? There can't be that much air in the system. I replaced the calipers a few days ago and I'm using the motive power bleeder at 20 psi. I have ABS so that's why I'm bleeding it while it's running. 98 Limited

There are huge air pockets in the tube from the power bleeder to the master cylinder. Could that be causing this?

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I would guess that you have air in the ABS pump and it needs to be bled with a DRB-III Scan Tool.

BRAKE BLEEDING (WITH ABS BRAKES)
ABS system bleeding requires conventional bleeding methods plus use of the DRB scan tool. The procedure involves performing a conventional bleed, followed by use of the scan tool to cycle and bleed the HCU pump and solenoids. A second conventional bleed procedure is then required remove any air remaining in the system.


(1) If a new master cylinder is to be installed, bleed cylinder on bench before installing it in vehicle.
(2) Wipe master cylinder reservoir and cap clean before removing cap. This avoids having dirt fall into fluid. Then fill reservoir with Mopar brake fluid.
(3) Perform conventional brake bleed as described in steps (4) and (5).
(4) Bleed master cylinder and combination valve at brake line fittings. Have helper depress and release brake pedal while bleeding cylinder and valve.
(5) Bleed wheel brakes in recommended sequence which is: right rear; left rear; right front; left front. Bleed procedure is as follows:

(a) Attach bleed hose to caliper bleed screw. Immerse end of hose in glass container partially filled with brake fluid. Be sure hose end is submerged in fluid (Fig. 3).
(b) Have helper depress and hold brake pedal to floorpan.
(c) Open bleed screw 1/2 turn. Close bleed screw when brake pedal contacts floorpan. Do not pump brake pedal at any time while bleeding. This compresses air into small bubbles which are distributed throughout system. Additional bleeding operations will then be necessary to remove all trapped air from the system.
(d) Repeat bleeding operation at each wheel brake unit fluid entering glass container is free of air bubbles. Check reservoir fluid level frequently and add fluid if necessary.
(6) Perform HCU bleed procedure with DRB scan tool as follows:
(a) Connect scan tool to ABS diagnostic connector. Connector is under carpet at front of console, just under instrument panel center bezel.
(b) Select CHASSIS SYSTEM, followed by TEVES ABS BRAKES, then BLEED BRAKES. When scan tool displays TEST COMPLETE, disconnect scan tool and proceed to next step.
(7) Repeat conventional bleed procedure described in steps (4) and (5).
(8) Top off master cylinder fluid level and verify proper brake operation before moving vehicle

You don't need the vehicle on to bleed with ABS - it'll bleed fine with the vehicle off. You only need the DRB tool if you have air in the ABS solenoids (which you shouldn't unless you ran the system dry. It looks like you are getting air past the threads on the bleed screw or possibly a leak where the hose connects to the bleed screw. It looks like its too much to be coming from the brake lines. I'd move on and complete the job, then test the pedal to see how firm it is.

I moved on to the other wheels. I get the same type of air bubbles from both rear wheels but not from the front. I can pump the pedal and get a nice firm pedal but I can push it all the way to the floor seconds later.

the_weirdo said:

... It looks like you are getting air past the threads on the bleed screw or possibly a leak where the hose connects to the bleed screw. It looks like its too much to be coming from the brake lines.

Click to expand...

As suggested, did you look for any loose fittings ?

Are the calipers (that you replaced) on the wrong sides? They're side specific. If the bleed screws are at the top of the caliper, good. If they're not and the bleed screws are at the bottom of the caliper the air in the system will never come up (key word being - UP) to the top of the caliper to be eliminated....and therefore will never bleed properly.

Check the calipers.

C

Tim_MN said:

As suggested, did you look for any loose fittings ?

Click to expand...

There are no loose hose fittings.

ParadiseXJ said:

Are the calipers (that you replaced) on the wrong sides? They're side specific. If the bleed screws are at the top of the caliper, good. If they're not and the bleed screws are at the bottom of the caliper the air in the system will never come up (key word being - UP) to the top of the caliper to be eliminated....and therefore will never bleed properly.

Check the calipers.

C

Click to expand...

Calipers are on correct. The bleed screw is on the top.

Did you ever solve this problem? I have a 00 xj with ABS that the pedalis spongy. Thinking of ways to cycle the abs pump. Dealer wants almost $200 to bleed brakes. Read that hitting brakes hard on dirt road would cycle the ABS, then you can bleed the brakes. This may take several times to get air out. Just a thought. Anyone know if this will work?