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OTRATTW.com switches/covers and fitchbox parts list questions

machinisttx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
texas
First, the OTRATTW rocker switches and covers. I'm planning on using these for my lights, etc., but I'm curious about their "novelty" switches. In the selection menu, there are a number of color options. That part is pretty easy to figure out except for the two that have "SB Red". Anyone know what this means? Also, I'm guessing all of the extra cost options include a SPST switch? Not a big deal if nobody knows, but I think I saw someone here running switches from them and figured I would ask. I might send an email their way to see if they'll make me a couple with "Tactical Bacon" or "Bourbon" on them.

And then the fitchbox parts question. As far as I could tell it's standard 30-40 amp relays, fuse panel, cat 5 jack, and a couple of terminal/barrier strips? The barrier strip used in the "my fitchbox" thread is only rated for 15 amps, which is less than the current draw of one of the LED light bars I'm planning on using.
 
When I did mine I didn't use a terminal strip, I just drilled holes, and used brass screws with two nuts in them. Pretty sure a 3/16" screw is rated for more than 15A.

I used Otrattw switches. I have a few novelty ones. Mine are green LED for ignition on, and amber LEDs for switch on. I have no idea what SB red means. I'd call or email the guys at Otrattw.

For my box I used a larger 5x7" project box I think from RadioShack. Got misc cat5e jack and cable from RadioShack and lowes, got a 8-terminal fuse block from del city, and 7 relays from somewhere online, can't remember. Then just wire it up. I put my switches in a box between the visors with quick disconnect for the ground, 12v, and the cat5e so that when I add more switches, it is just two screws and two wire disconnects and the box is out.

Good luck!
 
1337979397.jpg


Here is my switch panel

And here is the switch and wiring instructions. Mine are 5-pin with two LEDs.
1336528854.jpg
 
I considered using the brass bolts idea earlier but decided against it since I don't want to risk a wrench or soda can shorting to ground on them. I'll email and find out what the "SB red" is about. Thanks for the pic, they look better than I expected. Are those green or white? They don't seem to have a lot of options for dual LED, most of them I saw were incandescent bulbs. Did you wire to constant power for the switch lighting, or tap into one of the "key on" power wires?

I almost forgot. I found some higher amp rating barrier terminal strips. The one I'm probably going with is this one, rated at 45 amps per terminal. http://www.onlinecomponents.com/beau-molex_38660-8808.html?p=42797215
 
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I considered using the brass bolts idea earlier but decided against it since I don't want to risk a wrench or soda can shorting to ground on them. I'll email and find out what the "SB red" is about. Thanks for the pic, they look better than I expected. Are those green or white? They don't seem to have a lot of options for dual LED, most of them I saw were incandescent bulbs. Did you wire to constant power for the switch lighting, or tap into one of the "key on" power wires?

I almost forgot. I found some higher amp rating barrier terminal strips. The one I'm probably going with is this one, rated at 45 amps per terminal. http://www.onlinecomponents.com/beau-molex_38660-8808.html?p=42797215

In this case I would guess "sb red" stands for "switch body color red" .Just an idea.:wave:
 
They are Powered by ignition on source. I tapped into the cig lighter. They are LED.
 
SB Red = "Daylight Bright Red"

for example: V1D1FCTB = is Red upper with Daylight Bright Red lower.

I'm guessing SB was originally "Super Bright"
 
I've used the power distribution boxes from WagonGear, with the OTRATTW switches. Works well as long as you order the proper switches, they have several kinds with more or less contacts and with light normally on or off...
 
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