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Ok, Who Is the Master of Rebuilding T-Cases

HandBuiltXJ

HandBuiltXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oceanside, CA
I am sick of my leaking t-case. I split it years ago when I put my SYE in, resealed it multiple times with No 2 gasket maker and got it down to 2 drips a day. When I transfered it to my new jeep, I split, cleaned and inspected, and resealed it, now it is back to dripping about 30-50 drops a day and making a little puddle in my new garage. And now that I got the Long arm kit and extra armor under there, It will make the removal/reinstall even funner.

So who out there is the clubs master T-case rebuilder close to North County that might be interested in working for beer in trade for a leak free t case (that has fluid in it....) because I have never had this much problem getting something to seal so I am obviously missing something.

JOhn
 
My nickle says to reseal it with the "right stuff" or "fipg" (fixed in place gasket at a toyota dealer).

Either one should do the job....are you positive its leaking from the split?
 
When I did my SYE I used the right stuff. No leaks from the split, but I am leaking from the speed sensor. For some reason I cannot get it to seat properly.
 
Leaking at the main split and at the smaller cover on the back side where the rear output shaft now is.

Yup, let the sealant set for about an hour before reassembly.

Toyota carries our gaskets for the 231? I will gladly go fix in place gasket if that means it will stop leaking, Hell, I would have it welded solid at this point I am just sick of it.
 
I know how you feel. I have the same problem with my oil pan. For my t-case I used ATF sealant available at any auto parts store. I rebuilt my case about 18 months ago and still not a drop. I also let the t-case sit with no fluid in it for a good day or so just so I was positive the sealant was totally dry.
 
When mating a flat surface to another flat surface such as an NP231 case, I take a dremel and grind a small groove down the middle of the mating surface so that the sealant has a place to go when you tighten it. If it is too smooth, all the sealant squeezes out.

For the speed sensor, replace the O-ring.
 
Old_man has a good suggestion here about using a dremel.. I use the wire wheel attachment to kinda scratch up the two surfaces so the RTV has something to hold on to.
John, Are you needing it re sealed "in" the jeep or "out" of it? I know its a PITA to pull it just to seal it up again. If you wanna swing it by my place we can get you taken care of. Just a thought.
 
Throw it away or cut the front 1/2 and make it a reduction box and put in a flipped 300 or a Dana 20 from a Ford Bronco no leaks and gearing! Just kidding my Van 1356 leaked but I wire wheeled and gouged it with an awl to run my dremel without coming off track and it's good. Never heard of the Toyota stuff or the wrong stuff either for that matter!
 
I got no problem ripping it out again, just in the middle of a move right now, probably July. Thank you all for the offer to help. I will definitely hit someone up if I need a hand.
 
make sure you are using a sealant that is rated for contact with oil as well. I like to use permatex ultra-black.
 
GrimmJeeper said:
make sure you are using a sealant that is rated for contact with oil as well. I like to use permatex ultra-black.
Click to expand...

That's what I used when I installed my SYE, and no leaks. I'd also never split the t-case before, so I'm rather impressed I ended up with not leaks. I blame the sealant, because I'm not usually that lucky.
 
Not a master, but have done a couple SYE's, have snap and lock ring pliers, right angle die grinder and some 3m pads to scuff the al. Up
 
This move is really taking away from my jeep wrenching time. She just sits there, dripping on my new garage floor. Looking like early July I will be able to fix this and ball joints and knuckle and get her back on the trail.
 
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