Brake repair question??

The hard brake line connections are corroded tight and don't want to break loose. Been soaking them for two weeks with PB. Looks like fitting is corroded to line. I watched a couple of videos on youtube regarding methods to get the fittings out. I figure that I'll have to cut the lines, heat the fittings, and get them out. That involves new brake lines and fittings.

If I cut the rubber lines at the front calipers and rear axle, does that drain all the fluid out of the system? Jeep does have ABS and I have no plans on getting rid of it at this time.

Will I need to bleed the entire system including master cyclinder?

Youtube videos don't mention it and just want to get an idea of how much trouble I'll be getting into. Also, anyone have any recommnedations for double flare tool kits?

Any thoughts to doing the line work and rolling it down to the local shop to pressure bleed it?

Thanks

If you have to cut them I would flush the brake system and put antiseize on the threads of the brake lines.

Instead of PB, try a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Did this on my 1999 Dodge Ram front brakeline a little over a year ago, and the flare fitting came loose with 2 fingers.

The shorter you have the lines open, or rather time from the first cut to when you start bleeding the circuit, the better. Keep the bubble below the master cylinder.

ChiXJeff said:

Instead of PB, try a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Did this on my 1999 Dodge Ram front brakeline a little over a year ago, and the flare fitting came loose with 2 fingers.

The shorter you have the lines open, or rather time from the first cut to when you start bleeding the circuit, the better. Keep the bubble below the master cylinder.

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X2^

get everything assembled and ready for replacement before you start cutting. Once you start cutting it will allow you to retain as much fluid in the lines as possible.

PB Blaster doesn't compare to products like Kroil, S'Ok, or a mixture of ATF and Acetone.

Thanks for the responses, just ordered the kroil from amazon so we'll see how that goes. Never heard of the ATF acetone mix.
I was thinking I couldn't really bend the line until I got the old ones off so figured that the lines would be open for a bit. Just don't know or understand if everything will drain out or does the proportioning valve keep it from freely flowing out of the master cyclinder. I am not too concerned with bleeding yet didn't want to have to have to bleed master cyclinder.

95XJ_Cbiscuit70 said:

Thanks for the responses, just ordered the kroil from amazon so we'll see how that goes. Never heard of the ATF acetone mix.
I was thinking I couldn't really bend the line until I got the old ones off so figured that the lines would be open for a bit. Just don't know or understand if everything will drain out or does the proportioning valve keep it from freely flowing out of the master cyclinder. I am not too concerned with bleeding yet didn't want to have to have to bleed master cyclinder.

Click to expand...

I like Kroil and S'Ok.

Curious how acetone and ATF compares.

cruiser54 said:

Curious how acetone and ATF compares.

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it's 10 fold better than anything else I've ever used-- been keeping it on hand since I first tried it and never have problems anymore!!

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1007749&highlight=acetone

Shorty said:

it's 10 fold better than anything else I've ever used-- been keeping it on hand since I first tried it and never have problems anymore!!

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1007749&highlight=acetone

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Better than kroil?

Kroil has not been on my list of penetrants, but the few I've "enlightened" about the acetone/trans fluid mix that have used it say the 50/50 mix is amazing in comparison. I'm at the point that until I find something it can't do, I'm not looking for anything else!!

Try it and lemme know what you think-- nothing to lose, it's ingredients you probably already have!

I've BTDT. Be careful. Even with the rubber hoses cut, when you heat the fittings with a torch enough pressure can build up quickly enough to blow the hose out of the ferrule with an alarming bang. Brake fluid is flammable as well, not easily, but it will burn, so don't leave anything flammable lying around and keep a fire extinguisher handy. I've never caught it on fire myself but you never can tell.

If all else fails, learn to flare and bend brake lines... sometimes the hard way is the easy way.

You will def. need to do a full flush of the system, and it would not be a bad idea to take it to a shop with a scan tool to have it bled again "properly" after you are done to make sure there are no air pockets in the ABS.

Another thing to think about is your flare wrenches. On challenging fittings sometimes putting vice-grips clamped gorilla tight on the head of the wrench to keep it from spreading will help you put a little extra abuse on the fitting without rounding it off.