Pilot bushing/bearing Q!!

Took the BA 10 out of the MJ.

Getting ready to put the AW4 in. I've read that if doing this I should get the pilot bushing/bearing off the donor (BA10). There was no pilot bushing/bearing in the crank end. The recess is there, but it's rough...not smooth, machined.

So do I get a pilot bushing/bearing. Source? P/N?

Does that fit into the end of the torque converter, the machined part?

IIRC there is NO need for a pilot bearing for the auto. TC should not touch anything ..... except where it bolts on.
You do have the correct flywheel and flex plate?

ParadiseXJ said:

... I've read that if doing this I should get the pilot bushing/bearing off the donor (BA10)...

Click to expand...

Yes I have the right flexplate and T/C.

to install the auto, you want to end up with and empty crank pilot hole and the auto flexplate. The torque converter will protrude into the empty crank hole, but doesn't come into contact with anything there.

hope that's what you needed

Yes, that's what I was hoping...and now...If the torque converter is seated correctly the tip should be about 3/4" inside the mouth of the bell housing, yes?

I stood the tranny on end and rotated the torque converter until it clicked into place...three clicks, on the third click it dropped in about 1 1/2" to 2". It looks right, feels right. Is there a way to be sure it's fully engaged.

I don't want to put this thing in and have to pull it again.

I've never even bothered to check how far into the pilot hole it goes-- as long as ti isn't hitting anything, it's happy.

The important "measurement" when stabbing an auto into the Heep is between the torque converter and the flexplate. You should have about 1/4" of space before you begin bolting things up. If you are touching when it's installed, you don't have the converter all the way in (but the three clunks should be right)

The 3 clunks worked fine...but...

OK, I found a bearing RACE inside the crank recess. It's 3/4" I.D. The torque converter "nipple" is 3/4". Without the race the recess would measure ~~1"

How do I get that race out. The "manual" says to force it out with grease and hammer in a a "slightly smaller" rod to pop it out. Unfortunately, "slightly smaller" means exactly one scintilla of a micro-millimeter smaller.

Is there a tool, slide hammer, bearing remover at AZ or O'Reilly's to do this?

Otherwise, the tranny lines up perfect. First stab I hit the locating dowels and was able to slide the bolts in and crank them about half way down. All the hole in the bellhousing are spot on. I'm ready to torque it up.

Thanx

P.S. The hole past the crank flange extends exactly to the second joint in my pinky, about 1.5" (your pinky may vary). It ends in a cone shape. No threads.

Slide hammer with a pilot bushing adapter. Yes, they do exist.

ChiXJeff said:

Yes, they do exist.

Click to expand...

I have had a hard time convincing the local authorities that I spotted Bigfoot riding side saddle on a Unicorn. My mommy believes me!!

Thanks!!

was the unicorn purple? If not, they may not believe you.....

the "pack it full of grease and cram a stick into the hole" method has almost always worked for me, but when it didn't, the pilot bearing removal tool available (as a loaner tool) at Advance, Zone, etc has always worked.

ChiXJeff said:

Slide hammer with a pilot bushing adapter. Yes, they do exist.

Click to expand...

Took me 1/2 hour to get to and from AZone, 10 minutes for a beer break, 20 minutes to figure out/set up the tool, two whacks and done...thanks again.