Ok, so i have looked and researched just about every different saying I could come up with to find the answer to seeing if the a/c condenser from a 96 is the same as a 97. I know the connections are different and I'm sure that you can change that or can you? But my question is, do you get better air flow out of the newer condensers? I thought I have read somewhere that you do, but I wasn't sure where that was said. I don't want to do it with out seeing if it really does help. My jeep starts getting hot when I'm at highway speeds but then once i slow down it goes back down. I have tried clueing out my fins with a hose and nothing comes out. So i am wondering if it does this do to the design of the condenser?
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Better air flow
- Thread starter kdub41
- Start date
weebur
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern Illinois
You might be able to use a '97, but you'd probably have to change the lines (they're hard lines). Put that together with a new condenser/accumulator/lines/refrigerant/oil/evac/O-rings you'd be well over $300 if you did it yourself.
I'd flush the engine (I use Prestone) until it runs clear, and back flush the radiator and condenser fins after spraying them down good with household cleaner or windshield washer fluid designed to remove bug guts. I'd also replace the T-stat, and radiator cap too. If you have a lot of bent condenser fins you could buy a cheap fin comb and open them up. All of this is good to do anyway. I doubt if your problem is bad air flow by a design fault. Let's hope it's not your water pump, but now would be a good time to replace it.
I'd flush the engine (I use Prestone) until it runs clear, and back flush the radiator and condenser fins after spraying them down good with household cleaner or windshield washer fluid designed to remove bug guts. I'd also replace the T-stat, and radiator cap too. If you have a lot of bent condenser fins you could buy a cheap fin comb and open them up. All of this is good to do anyway. I doubt if your problem is bad air flow by a design fault. Let's hope it's not your water pump, but now would be a good time to replace it.
I'm sorry I forgot to say I replace the thermostat the water pump and I've also flush the system and when I open up my lower radiator hose it is all clear. my thermostat is a robert shaw 180 degree thermostat, and csf three core. I just don't know what else it could be why I'm overheating only at highway speeds.
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
how is your mechanical fan clutch?
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
I would try converting back to a good clutch fan. Seen a lot of people chase problems after going all electric.
As for the red letter thing, Bails posted that. I have made so many good friends, and experinces that will last a lifetime. I think OLD Man nailed it when he said " this place is like th
e family you wish you had"
As for the red letter thing, Bails posted that. I have made so many good friends, and experinces that will last a lifetime. I think OLD Man nailed it when he said " this place is like th
e family you wish you had"
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
Show up to a couple events and get to know some folks. Changed my outlook on things around here big time.
That being said, if someone writes a post so poorly that I have to read it three times, I will usually not bother trying to help them. Unless I am in a really good mood, and that doesn't happen too often.
That being said, if someone writes a post so poorly that I have to read it three times, I will usually not bother trying to help them. Unless I am in a really good mood, and that doesn't happen too often.
8Mud
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Germany
If it overheats at highway speeds it is doubtful to be an airflow problem IMO. You really don't need a fan at highway speeds. On my 88, with a bad fan clutch, I couldn't idle for more than a few minutes without the temperature going up. As soon as I hit 30 MPH and higher no problem.
What can screw you up at highway speeds is the lower radiator hose collapsing. I good system and the water pump actually sucks more than it pushes. You need a spring inside of the lower hose or one of those universal hoses with the ribs built in.
I was having issues with highway overheating and by luck noticed my bottom radiator hose partially collapsing when I revved the motor up in the driveway. Almost impossible to see with the airbox in the way. The spring on mine had migrated down the hose and left enough of the hose unsupported that a section it would partially collapse at high RPM's.
Something else that can screw you up is, a tiny head gasket leak. The exhaust gases collect in the high spots in the cooling system and the bubble messes with the coolant flow. The head gasket leak may be tiny, but it adds up.
Lastly the system, in most years I'm familiar with, needs the heater hose bypass, either the bypass through the heater valve or through the heater core. The coolant that bypasses the thermostat, keeps it working and responsive. Without the bypass the thermostat can open, until it gets cooler fluid, then close until the coolant is heated from the rear and this can take awhile. What you end up with is wild temperature swings, instead of a fairly steady temperature. Having the wrong thermostat housing gasket can cause the same gremlins. I always use OEM thermostat gasket, even if I use an aftermarket thermostat. Or make my own to match the OEM gasket.
One thing you might want to check out is to take the top radiator brace off, unscrew the top bolts on the condenser (being very careful,using penetrating oil) and separate the two pieces. I have found Cotton wood fluff in there, some makes it's way through the condenser, but not the radiator. You can also take off a fan and the front grill and shine a strong flashlight on the back (engine side) of the radiator and see the light through both the radiator and the condenser if they are clean.
If you flush the radiator and condenser with water, don't use so much pressure, you may flatten the fins. If you do, you can buy a fin comb at most any air conditioning place.
What can screw you up at highway speeds is the lower radiator hose collapsing. I good system and the water pump actually sucks more than it pushes. You need a spring inside of the lower hose or one of those universal hoses with the ribs built in.
I was having issues with highway overheating and by luck noticed my bottom radiator hose partially collapsing when I revved the motor up in the driveway. Almost impossible to see with the airbox in the way. The spring on mine had migrated down the hose and left enough of the hose unsupported that a section it would partially collapse at high RPM's.
Something else that can screw you up is, a tiny head gasket leak. The exhaust gases collect in the high spots in the cooling system and the bubble messes with the coolant flow. The head gasket leak may be tiny, but it adds up.
Lastly the system, in most years I'm familiar with, needs the heater hose bypass, either the bypass through the heater valve or through the heater core. The coolant that bypasses the thermostat, keeps it working and responsive. Without the bypass the thermostat can open, until it gets cooler fluid, then close until the coolant is heated from the rear and this can take awhile. What you end up with is wild temperature swings, instead of a fairly steady temperature. Having the wrong thermostat housing gasket can cause the same gremlins. I always use OEM thermostat gasket, even if I use an aftermarket thermostat. Or make my own to match the OEM gasket.
One thing you might want to check out is to take the top radiator brace off, unscrew the top bolts on the condenser (being very careful,using penetrating oil) and separate the two pieces. I have found Cotton wood fluff in there, some makes it's way through the condenser, but not the radiator. You can also take off a fan and the front grill and shine a strong flashlight on the back (engine side) of the radiator and see the light through both the radiator and the condenser if they are clean.
If you flush the radiator and condenser with water, don't use so much pressure, you may flatten the fins. If you do, you can buy a fin comb at most any air conditioning place.
Last edited:
hubs97xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
Is it overheating, or just running warm? Does it only happen with the AC on in hot weather, or all the time? What is the actual coolant temp?
AaronsJeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hemet
Hey I live in Hemet as well and the freakin heat doesn't help either! I have 95 and while at an 80 degree ambient I cant get mine above 160,and with the air on it runs cooler. I have the HD ZJ fan clutch, a 3cfs and everything else is stock, but I do flush it once a year and I use an adidtive for cooling found at any store. Did you remove your stock air shroud? And have you boiled your thermostat to confirm that it opens all the way? I'd be happy to head over and take a peek at it, PM me.
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
Hope the OP has fixed this since may
if yours wont go over 160, i woukd guss your thermostat is stuck open, or your gauge is off
if yours wont go over 160, i woukd guss your thermostat is stuck open, or your gauge is off
CaliXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Oceanside, CA
Could have a 160* t stat in it to? Damn parts guys like to screw things up and give out wrong parts.. ALOT!
souske
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The land of competition
Caveat emptor
outlander
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Columbus,Ohio
I actually Googled that....haha...I'm bored....let the buyer beware.
AaronsJeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hemet
LOL 160 Stat and somebody looked, good one! My 95 has the stock temp gauge overheating dummy light and I put in one of those aftermarket gauges as well and after some thought/common sense post yeah something must NOT be right, it's prolly that gauge but either way even with that stock temp overheating light It still hasn't come on, even in the middle of HellHemet at 108 degrees with no breeze @ Idle my after market gauge will sit at 190/195 the t-stat temp but even after a hard drive with 4:56's & pulling a trailor it won't stay at 210 for long and it never (Cross Fingers) overheats, and I have 339,000 miles on that engine. So why my Co-Hemetian has overheating issues? It must be that electric fan set up? Thanks for comments & sharing, I hope he finds out the issue,,,,,
A cold thermostat will not force your car run cool. It just opens enough that the pump and radiator operate at their natural temp for the RPMS the engine runs. The stat actually closes to keep temps UP to 195, which is what the EFI requires to go into closed loop.
The rad hose sucking shut isn't because a new pump does a bunch better - it's the old radiator finally showing it's clogged badly and can't keep up. With overheating over 30mph, it's really clogged - or - the water pump is the wrong rotation. All the 4.0 should be serpentine belt, but ya never know who slipped in the wrong impeller or a 258 pump - V-belt rotates backward. They use the same gasket, too.
If your radiator is more than ten years old, then get it replaced with one having an additional core for more capacity. Rodding it out is a short term stopgap, aluminum rads with plastic tanks can't be. Check the pump for correct rotation - means pulling it, I know.
The rad hose sucking shut isn't because a new pump does a bunch better - it's the old radiator finally showing it's clogged badly and can't keep up. With overheating over 30mph, it's really clogged - or - the water pump is the wrong rotation. All the 4.0 should be serpentine belt, but ya never know who slipped in the wrong impeller or a 258 pump - V-belt rotates backward. They use the same gasket, too.
If your radiator is more than ten years old, then get it replaced with one having an additional core for more capacity. Rodding it out is a short term stopgap, aluminum rads with plastic tanks can't be. Check the pump for correct rotation - means pulling it, I know.
- Location
- Houston, Tx
California heat isn't bad... I overbuilt my cooling system out there on my XJ. Now I'm in Texas... running on a stock cooling system but having no issues. The outside heat should not affect it that much unless you have something else really wrong... in my case, back in Ca, it was a clogged cat leading to overheating.
