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View Full Version : My 94 Didnt Pass Smog ?!?!?!?!


cz94xj
April 27th, 2012, 20:31
So mine didn't pass I put a pic up of the smog paper. I really want your guys
Help. I took it to another guy he told me the the fuel lock ring isn't sealed properly. That's as much as I know. This weekend I'm going under to take a look at it myself. Would aprecciate any thoughts inputs and solutions thanks guys


http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w456/cz6191/IMG_20120423_121355.jpg

Saudade
April 28th, 2012, 07:49
Fix the evap.

cz94xj
April 28th, 2012, 08:03
Fix the evap.

Ok how do I do that ?

2stix
April 28th, 2012, 09:03
there really is not that much to it. it is a simple system. i am betting you probably do not have a vacuum testing tool. (a mityvac tool will work) so you are going to have to check everything one by one. start with a new gas cap. you can find a diagram online of the system and how it is routed, but by just looking underneath and tracing it from your fuel tank up to the engine bay is easy. from the tank to the charcoal canister most of the line is metal and those rarely get damaged. but the rubber hoses do deteriorate and need to be replaced. it is no fun and your hands are going to get dirty reaching around checking all the lines, but i bet you find the culprit pretty quickly. mine was just after the canister and behind the engine.

Saudade
April 28th, 2012, 09:06
Well, it says it's disconnected. Plenty of threads here on it. Maybe just a missing or bad/broken vac line.

cz94xj
April 28th, 2012, 09:44
there really is not that much to it. it is a simple system. i am betting you probably do not have a vacuum testing tool. (a mityvac tool will work) so you are going to have to check everything one by one. start with a new gas cap. you can find a diagram online of the system and how it is routed, but by just looking underneath and tracing it from your fuel tank up to the engine bay is easy. from the tank to the charcoal canister most of the line is metal and those rarely get damaged. but the rubber hoses do deteriorate and need to be replaced. it is no fun and your hands are going to get dirty reaching around checking all the lines, but i bet you find the culprit pretty quickly. mine was just after the canister and behind the engine.

Ok I have no problem doing it that way. As far as the diagram were can I locate that ? And as far as that sensor what can I do about that ? I plan on doing it Sunday have all day to work on it.

cz94xj
April 28th, 2012, 14:33
Well, it says it's disconnected. Plenty of threads here on it. Maybe just a missing or bad/broken vac line.

Havnt been able to locate any threads about. If you can guide me the right way I would appreciate it thnaks

Pelican
April 28th, 2012, 15:37
This may or may not help, but 5-90 says the TAC was discontinued on the HO ('91+).

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=902250&highlight=thermostatic+air+cleaner

cz94xj
April 28th, 2012, 17:33
This may or may not help, but 5-90 says the TAC was discontinued on the HO ('91+).

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=902250&highlight=thermostatic+air+cleaner

Ill have to read when I get home but thanks for helping

cz94xj
April 28th, 2012, 19:59
this is the diagram i was able to find for my year how accurate is it ?

<a href="http://s1076.photobucket.com/albums/w456/cz6191/?action=view&amp;current=2010-06-08_210453_222.gif" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w456/cz6191/2010-06-08_210453_222.gif" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

cz94xj
April 28th, 2012, 20:01
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w456/cz6191/2010-06-08_210453_222.gif

2stix
April 29th, 2012, 09:01
i honestly do not know what your 94s evap system looks like exactly. but as long as you have a good idea of what the system is, it should be pretty easy to follow all the hoses and check them. basically it is just time to check ALL your vacuum lines. your sheet says "disconnected" not just faulty or fail, so i am betting you should be able to see the area in mention.
the test most smog places do is to hook up a vacuum tester to your fuel filler neck, then pinch off the lines going to the canister. if it hold a certain amount a vacuum it will pass. if not it fails. so i would start with the lines from the tank to the canister. but still check all your lines because they do go bad and your system will run better if working properly.

cz94xj
April 29th, 2012, 20:49
i honestly do not know what your 94s evap system looks like exactly. but as long as you have a good idea of what the system is, it should be pretty easy to follow all the hoses and check them. basically it is just time to check ALL your vacuum lines. your sheet says "disconnected" not just faulty or fail, so i am betting you should be able to see the area in mention.
the test most smog places do is to hook up a vacuum tester to your fuel filler neck, then pinch off the lines going to the canister. if it hold a certain amount a vacuum it will pass. if not it fails. so i would start with the lines from the tank to the canister. but still check all your lines because they do go bad and your system will run better if working properly.


ok then i didnt get a chance to today to do it so im going to do it tomorrow in the am see what i find ill have pics of the colprate if i find it. also i found online that a seal goes around the locking ring can that also be it ? and just ordered a new gas cap also

2stix
April 30th, 2012, 08:09
because your sheet says "Tampered" leads me to believe someone has disconnected, or blocked some part of the system. if the inspector saw it, so can you. seal around the locking ring? are we talking about the large O-ring that seals the fuel pump to the tank? or is this the fuel filler cap seal? a new cap is a wise move anyhow. the large O-ring that seals the fuel pump to tank can very well be leaking. even a new pump replacement doesnt mean a new seal as the new ones are thick and hard to get the pump smashed close enough to the tank to allow the locking ring to set in enough to latch. some people just say screw it and use the old O-ring. and in many cases it will seal. but not all ways. and of course the seal could have not sat in its groove while installing. it can slip down a bit and it is hard to see if it is not sealing.

not a recommendation but i have placed a rubber hose into the filler neck and sealed it with a rag, then blew air into it to see if i can hear where the air was escaping from.

SanDiegoXJ
April 30th, 2012, 09:25
Hey, I'm having a PITA passing smog too, but my stuff isn't tampered with, and I have a '94 too. I live near UCSD, and should be home after 6 tonight if you want to swing by and we can take a look.

cz94xj
April 30th, 2012, 10:18
because your sheet says "Tampered" leads me to believe someone has disconnected, or blocked some part of the system. if the inspector saw it, so can you. seal around the locking ring? are we talking about the large O-ring that seals the fuel pump to the tank? or is this the fuel filler cap seal? a new cap is a wise move anyhow. the large O-ring that seals the fuel pump to tank can very well be leaking. even a new pump replacement doesnt mean a new seal as the new ones are thick and hard to get the pump smashed close enough to the tank to allow the locking ring to set in enough to latch. some people just say screw it and use the old O-ring. and in many cases it will seal. but not all ways. and of course the seal could have not sat in its groove while installing. it can slip down a bit and it is hard to see if it is not sealing.

not a recommendation but i have placed a rubber hose into the filler neck and sealed it with a rag, then blew air into it to see if i can hear where the air was escaping from.

Yeah that large O ring that seals it. I found online that a rubber seal goes around it I wasn't too sure about cuse awhile back I helpeed my buddy change his fuel pump and never saw a seal go around that O ring but I went ahead and ordered just incase was only 5$. I can only assume he said tampered because on the visual is because I put a clamp on. One of the rubber hoses to stay in place. He kept looking at it and I knew right away he was going to say something. Ill have a pic of that so you guys can see what I mean. And when I got my jeep it didn't have that pcv cap so I got that new.

cz94xj
April 30th, 2012, 10:22
Hey, I'm having a PITA passing smog too, but my stuff isn't tampered with, and I have a '94 too. I live near UCSD, and should be home after 6 tonight if you want to swing by and we can take a look.


I realy appreciate that. Ill see what I can get done on my own today and if I still can't solve it let's arrange somthing for later this week. Thanks

cz94xj
May 2nd, 2012, 20:26
I pcked this up today


http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w456/cz6191/IMG_20120502_154138.jpg

frontman
May 2nd, 2012, 21:02
Not long ago I failed on high nox like yourself. I dont know if the evap issue will lead to high nox but as far as what I had to do. Full tune up cap rotor wires, new cat new 02 sensor, also seafoamed motor via vacume line at brake booster (Before changing o2 sensor). I also had a bad exhaust leak at manifold so I changed manifold also. Just letting you know save yourself all the retesting fees and prepare to possibly do all this. Good luck.

SanDiegoXJ
May 3rd, 2012, 08:32
So my heap passed....

the biggest thing that brought down my NOx numbers were exhaust leaks.

My suggestion, run some seafoam through the intake.

After you let it sit and fire it back up, any exhaust leaks should be pretty evident....repair them, clean out the combustion chamber in the process, and see what happens.

EDIT: Oh yeah, you're gonna want a new O2 sensor after the seafoam though....

Oh yeah, and I have the FSM for the '94 if you want to take a look at that too =)

cz94xj
May 3rd, 2012, 14:18
there really is not that much to it. it is a simple system. i am betting you probably do not have a vacuum testing tool. (a mityvac tool will work) so you are going to have to check everything one by one. start with a new gas cap. you can find a diagram online of the system and how it is routed, but by just looking underneath and tracing it from your fuel tank up to the engine bay is easy. from the tank to the charcoal canister most of the line is metal and those rarely get damaged. but the rubber hoses do deteriorate and need to be replaced. it is no fun and your hands are going to get dirty reaching around checking all the lines, but i bet you find the culprit pretty quickly. mine was just after the canister and behind the engine.


Ok well good news is I found that the line that goes into the gas tank to the evap canister was fine until the metal ended then rubber hose started and about half way to the evap canister looks like it just ripped off from being old. That haynes manual helped out a lot. And aslo a new friend that lives near me helped out a lot. Going to get a new hose and it should be good to go. Ill have pics up maybe later today or tomorrow. Thanks everyonee once again

cz94xj
May 3rd, 2012, 14:21
So my heap passed....

the biggest thing that brought down my NOx numbers were exhaust leaks.

My suggestion, run some seafoam through the intake.

After you let it sit and fire it back up, any exhaust leaks should be pretty evident....repair them, clean out the combustion chamber in the process, and see what happens.

EDIT: Oh yeah, you're gonna want a new O2 sensor after the seafoam though....

Oh yeah, and I have the FSM for the '94 if you want to take a look at that too =)

That's good to hear. Well I just posted I found out the issue but I'm also going to replace the O2 sensor while I'm at it and replace all the rubber hoses. And defintly will do that sea foam my friend has done that before. So after that just replace the sensor then?

cz94xj
May 3rd, 2012, 14:24
Not long ago I failed on high nox like yourself. I dont know if the evap issue will lead to high nox but as far as what I had to do. Full tune up cap rotor wires, new cat new 02 sensor, also seafoamed motor via vacume line at brake booster (Before changing o2 sensor). I also had a bad exhaust leak at manifold so I changed manifold also. Just letting you know save yourself all the retesting fees and prepare to possibly do all this. Good luck.

Thanks for the heads up if I have time I plan on doing the tune up myself but I got a hectice work schedule at the moment I might just take to a shp and have them do the tune up.