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cooling upgrades help

CAJJ93XJ

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Roseville, CA
not getting the answers I need on other forums. I have a leaky radiator and possibly a plugged heater core (gonna suck if thats true)
here's the junk I was gonna buy

*B&M auto transmission cooler
*V8 ZJ fan clutch pt. #272310
*OEMwater pump
*OEM radiator
*195 tstat
*typical new hoses as well
*possibly an efan from a ford taurus if needed

I have a 93 base model 4.0 Aw4 np231
can someone confirm that those are all the correct parts?? I wanna be running at about 180*
and I dont want to screw up my order. I think thats everything. thanks in advance

oh. and also, should I throw anything else onto that list? might as well do everything at once
 
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Id order an all metal rad non the stocker but thats me.
 
everything on the list looks fine (although I agree that a copper/brass radiator would be a good upgrade)

don't forget:
a thermostat gasket
a heater control valve-- assuming a '93 has the valve (they tend to fail when attempting to change heater hoses)
a new radiator cap

I don't think you really want to be running @ 180*-- your fuel map in the ECU will be set for closer to 205* and the 195* thermostat won't be helping you see those temps either.
 
Make sure you get your tstat from the dealer.

Trust me. Its worth the extra $ and will help keep your jeep running at the right temp. And yeah 205-210 is where they are supposed to be running.
 
I'll get a copper or brass. I know I wont be getting aluminum that's for sure
205* is news to me I'll keep that in mind. everyone was recommending the 195 tstat. should I be getting a different one?

192*-195* is when the original thermostat opened. The efficiency of the cooling system will determine the actual operating temperature from there and in the case of our XJ's between 200* and 210* is the norm.

A lower temp. thermostat will open sooner (lower temp.) but from that point on, the final operating temp won't change. Often times, a colder thermostat can "band-aid" a cooling problem on short trips (never really reach full cooling system capacity) but it's not really changing anything.

Your mileage will be best with the temperature as close to where the engineers/programmers expected it to be when they designed the program for your ECU.

On a side note, mine currently runs about 175*-180* (stuck open thermostat but not a DD) and I did notice a loss in fuel economy.
 
192*-195* is when the original thermostat opened. The efficiency of the cooling system will determine the actual operating temperature from there and in the case of our XJ's between 200* and 210* is the norm.

A lower temp. thermostat will open sooner (lower temp.) but from that point on, the final operating temp won't change. Often times, a colder thermostat can "band-aid" a cooling problem on short trips (never really reach full cooling system capacity) but it's not really changing anything.

Your mileage will be best with the temperature as close to where the engineers/programmers expected it to be when they designed the program for your ECU.

On a side note, mine currently runs about 175*-180* (stuck open thermostat but not a DD) and I did notice a loss in fuel economy.

Also running too cool will affect your emissions.
 
ok so lets go over my list again.

*trans cooler
*zj fan clutch
*brass rad and cap
*water pump
*heater control valve
*hope a heater core flush works

and just keep my stock tstat? it's not bad or anything
anything I'm still forgetting? new optimum temp goal is 200-210*
 
The standing "rule of thumb" for engine operating temp vis-a-vis the T-Stat is T-Stat plus 15F. So, a 195F Ts-Stat gets you 210F and a 180F T-Stat should get you 195F. In truthm the 180F T-Stat will yield a slightly higher average due to radiator limitations.

My rig operated between 191F and 201F due to the setup I run.

I run a Davies-Craig EWP115 electric water pump. a 180F NAPA T-Stat (with an air bleed hole drilled), a Taurus two speed fan (running on low with the ignition on) and the factory aux fan. For a radiator, I run a CSF three core from radiatorbarn.com. I also have relocated my aux transmission cooler out from in front of the radiator as I found 5F in cooling by doing so. It sets on top of my front skid (spaced up off of it by about 0.650" or so) with a 650cfm puller fan and a T-Stat of it's own to control it. I do not run a stock front sway (Currie Antirock) so there is room. Plus I have moved the skid down 3" to restore functionality.

Wiring on the system is such that the Ford fan kicks to high speed when the engine temp gets 3C above the 90C (194F) set point via the EWP-115 controller. I have the Heep's fan wired to operate either from, command of the PCM or, the EWP-115 controller. This preserves normal operation and provides a huge kick when the EWP-115 calls for fan.

The system works. It took me the better part of three months to iron out all of the variables working with the Davies-Graig Engineers in Australia. I mean, how often do you get a chance to speak with the Managing Director of an overseas company? According to their warranty registrations, I have the only EWP-115 setup on a Cherokee in the world...

It was record a run on my laptop (via the OBDII port) chart the data, send the gragh and discuss the run with Engineering. THe DC folks were very interested in helping when I explained that heat issues are the norn for offroad Heeps. Eventually, we found the best method. My hood vents were the last piece of the puzzle. And, they are only 72insq...

But it is not an inexpensive solution...
 
Delete the heater valve, run hoses straight to/from the core...it will NOT affect your A/C if all your blend doors and vacuum is in good shape. It also helps the heater core stay clean.

If you're shooting for running @180F, you'll be disappointed, I'd be extremely surprised if you did. Especially in Sacto and surrounding hills, mountains in summer. I live near Chico, it just gets too hot to run that cool. All your upgrades sound just right. I have all those on my Jeeps, plus hood vents. I still run at 200-210 without fail.

...oh and I also run a 97+ 10 blade (curved) fan that I pulled from the junkers in Oroville. Good yard that.
 
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I, too, have a 97+ electrical fan. It's essentially a drop-in upgrade (have to change the plug) but it pulls more air.
 
ok so in conclusion, a definite answer would be that I want a 180* t stat to reach 200*-210*F average?
I have a reallyyy big fear of overheating so I want to get this right haha..

16-1.jpg
 
No, you want a 195 thermostat as was stated earlier. Also, you will want to flush your entire cooling system to remove any build up. Someone can chime in with a good product to use.

Your jeep won't catch on fire simply from overheating.
 
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