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View Full Version : Oil Hydralic Lock for I-6 Engine


98XJLongBuild
April 19th, 2012, 15:51
Sorry for making you read to much, but with any motor issue I know to post up all the details before I have to reply to 100 questions before I start to get any useful feed back.Okay first off this is not my motor, but rather my good buddys. The rig is a 2002 ( I believe ) Rubicon turned into a extreme rock crawler. Its been featured in multiple magazines and has done alot in Moab. The original owner was my buddys uncle who past away for no real reason. So my buddy had a large emotional attachment with it so he bought it.


So a quikie on the back ground of what happened. My buddy went to Hollister with two other rigs and I've been nagging at him to learn the tip over point so when he dosent want it to roll he has a better idea. Any who, he had a very soft roll onto the driver side and he said it took about an hour and a half to get it floped back on all four. Then he went to start it it cranked but then basiclly seized up. He pulled the starter and the housing was cracked or the starter motor was almost all the way seperated from the gearbox of the starter. I was impressed when he decided to pull the plugs and check the cylinders and sure enough there was oil in the rear cylinder. So with the rig beining an automatic he had to get towed back to his trailer, and the funny thing is that there was more damage to the rig from towing, I guess he forgot there are almost zero brakes when there is no motor to create vacum pressure. Any how he winched onto the trailer called me on the way home and told him to drop it by my place (all the tools and equipment and room to do the job). So after it sat outside of my shop I started to bug my buddy for him to come over and start working on it, but after buying a brand new 2012 2500 cummings dieasel money for him is a little tight and he seamed to not want to know the full damage. So after it sat at my place for about a week or two I decided to dig in to it.

So know that the story is over onto the actual pics of the damage and details.

First I pulled the starter cause it was cleary broken. Right away I said "ohhh hoooo" and saw this http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j340/98XJLongBuild/1334873681.jpg.
Sorry but thats the in side of the oil pan and the HOLES in it appeared to be the connecting rod. So off comes the oil pan. And then there was this. http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j340/98XJLongBuild/1334873682.jpg
BINGO, YATEZEE, HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM, HOOOO SH**.Crawled underneath looked up and the culpreate showed its big face. http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j340/98XJLongBuild/1334873678.jpg
Also there was a very weird part bolted to the end of the crank cap studs. A sheet metal plate almost like a guard or a reinforcment pieace http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j340/98XJLongBuild/1334873680.jpg.

So right know I have the engine almost complety apart just need to take the head off but I dont have the special tool to disconnect the Fuel main line from the fuel rail.

But I was wondering what would you all would do. The engine has about 30,000 miles. In a 2002 I believe it is. Should I just replace the broken parts and obviously look very closley at all other engine components or replace all the connecting rods. I havent checked to see if the enging spins freely, I want to see the top of the piston before I move it. Also the rear cylinder walls look perfect still. From were all teh damge it was it looks like when he went to start it it seized the connecting rod and starter broke at the same time. The connecting rod looked like it went straight down for the wall of the oil pan, first hitting the weird sheet metal piece. The holes in the oil pan match up perfectly with the broken rod piece. Then it sat in the bottom of the pan. So figuring that out I think I can get away with replacing the the connecting rod and cap, wrist pin, top and bottom bearings for the connecting rod, I'll path up the oil pan (weld on a pathc inside and out, the sheet metal piece

O-Gauge Steamer
April 20th, 2012, 08:14
The "sheet metal" piece is the main bearing girdle. It needs to be there...

The engine will need to be taken completely apart and the block tanked to get all of the metal debris out of it.

Run a hone on the cylinder walls, to break the glaze, and reassemble with a new set of rings/bearings/rod...

Personally, I would have a machine shop check the crank to make sure it is still straight and magnaflux the block to make sure it is not cracked. In particular, the rear bearing mount is now suspect.

The flex plate needs to be inspected as does the bell (TC) housing for cracks.

This is a catastophic failure and all sorts of bad things can happen...

But that's just the way I am. Belt and suspenders when it comes to building an engine.

gradon
April 20th, 2012, 13:11
Nice Carnage!

98XJLongBuild
May 8th, 2012, 10:45
Okay so far in the dismantling there have been no other broken parts luckily. So it looks like my Buddy just wants to rebuild this block.

So were at in or arou.d San Jose, Ca. is there a machine shop to check the block and crank for cracks warping and to have them repolished.

98XJLongBuild
June 12th, 2012, 13:01
Okay so weve got the block and crank all checked out and luckily there all good to go. Got all the parts for the entire rebuild. Only part that we can not locate is the main crank girdle. The original one got bent and broken.

What stores or websites do you know of that would carry this part. It has to go back in.

old_man
June 12th, 2012, 13:36
Okay so weve got the block and crank all checked out and luckily there all good to go. Got all the parts for the entire rebuild. Only part that we can not locate is the main crank girdle. The original one got bent and broken.

What stores or websites do you know of that would carry this part. It has to go back in.
When you say you had it all checked out, do you mean magnafluxed? Because if you didn't have this done and only a visual inspection, you are on shakey ground. I quickly went over the thread and didn't see, are you replacing the head? If not, have it magnafluxed as well.

98XJLongBuild
June 12th, 2012, 14:07
When you say you had it all checked out, do you mean magnafluxed? Because if you didn't have this done and only a visual inspection, you are on shakey ground. I quickly went over the thread and didn't see, are you replacing the head? If not, have it magnafluxed as well.

Ya it all got magnafluxed and surfaces remachined. So now were On the hunt for the girdle and thats it..

Oh ya my Buddy needs to not forget all the torque specs this weekend. Believe it or not he was wanting to just hand torque evrything, yes even the head bolts amd the crank bolts. Im glad i decided to oversee this and not have to pull hom off a trail like fordyce or the rubicon.