Need a R/C Person to fix my Crazy crawler thing...

Ok well I started with a G-Made R1...

I have built Alot of RC cars and planes, and think I am just dangerous enough to think outside the box and build, but not enough to understand any of the new brushless and lipo stuff.

I now have a R1 chassis and the portal axles, stretched alot, with a 3c lipo, crawler brushless setup, crazy strong servo, and everything you can do for comp stuff on it.

Its HUGE now, and though heavy, not very much more then it was in stock form with the weighted beadlocks.

My Issue..

I have had repeated motor or batt, or ESC or ? problems and just put it away about 9 months or so ago.

I need someone that Actually Knows Lipo and Brushless and the like and can dedicate time to fix it. Novak will warr the motor or esc I think for a few more weeks or so if thats whats wrong now.

Anyone local to Yorba Linda that is more then just a hobbist, and Knows what they are doing? I have some $ to pay if needed to make it right and so me and my 4yo can enjoy it now/again.

this is it before the stretch and brushless etc...

Help?

Check with handbuiltxj, he has like 30 RC's.

Whell, your problem is that the Rooster crawler will only accept a 2S lipo.

You want a tekin ESC that allows for a 3 cell

I can't remember is the Rooster crawler allows for a brushless set up. You might want to run a Mamba Max for brushless as i think it does both.

boostamante said:

I can't remember is the Rooster crawler allows for a brushless set up. You might want to run a Mamba Max for brushless as i think it does both.

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I have the newer higher$ one that is rated to 3s. And comes w a brushless motor

Oh and its a goat system. Sorry. Just looked

Ah, well then im stumped. Is it set up for Lipo and the brushless? I know on my rooster crawler you have to look at the LED's an see if you want one or the other.

My Brushless Castle system in my Crawler is called the Sidewinder. Don't know if that's what you're looking for?

Your motor windings may be too high or wrong gearing.

Have you put an amp meter in line to see if you are drawing under the lipo limits?

If your esc heats up it will goto auto shut-down until cooled.

Get a can motor. It a rock crawler you dont need to go fast.

franeich said:

Get a can motor. It a rock crawler you dont need to go fast.

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^^^^^

this!

the goat is a great esc for a crawler.... i actually have a comp crawler with a 3s goat.. these people dont sound like they know whats going on lol... i work at a hobby shop in redlands called evolution sports. i crawl rc as well as the real cars...
im never really out towards yorba linda, but i might be able to walk you through some troubledhooting stuff for you to actually locate the problem so you can fix it your self.

jeeperjohn said:

Check with handbuiltxj, he has like 30 RC's.

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Hey, I think I am down to under 20 now, I think... But my new axial exo terra 4 seater buggy gets in tomorrow YIPPEE.

Did you get your rock crawler figured out bud? i don't work at a hobby shop, but I got some know how and could help out.

John

well I took it to Ultimate Hobbies and explained to Chris there my issue and no time and just want to pay someone. I guess he doesnt need my business, he told me, he would just take it apart like I could and this and that and basically told me, he doesnt want to fix it or work on it, that I should.

SO I left and put it all back in the cabinet, till who knows when again.

I dont want to dik with it. I want someone that has the time, the simple knowledge and wants to make a lil $$ for sitting at a table for like a hour or two to figure it out... Cause I do Not have that time to dedicate to it right now.

RWKHausSupply said:

My Issue..

I have had repeated motor or batt, or ESC or ? problems and just put it away about 9 months or so ago.

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What exactly is the symptom?

Is it getting hot and shutting down or having problems working intermittently or ???

I had glitching with the rooster and 2S lipo, and a cheapo rc4wd radio.

They talked me in to a Nice futaba 4 channel it still did it a lil bit, so they talked me in to the Goat 3s brushless and a 3s batt.

Got it all installed and the motor ran for about 20 sec and smoke came out of it. It no longer would turn once cooled.

Took it out and went down to Novak and they gave me a new one.

INstalled it and a very nigh end all alum servo for steering.

It cogs I think or the motor or ESC is not able to turn it over. sounds bad when it does get a few rev out of it.

I am think one of the following.
Portal gears
Diff Gears
Trans gears
Motor
ESC
Battery?

All of which I either dont have the time to fully disassemble this thing and figure it out, or know enough about lipos to know if the battery is even charging.

Do you know the KV of the motor Novak gave you?

5400 or 4200 or ???

BTW test the voltage of the lipo. A 3S should give you 11.1-12.8 volts.

no... I would assume exactly what the Goat 3s comes with, what ever that is..

RWKHausSupply said:

no... I would assume exactly what the Goat 3s comes with, what ever that is..

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goat 3s comes with either a 18.5 or a 21.5 brushless motor either one would power that thing perfectly fine. you can get them also with 13.5 and 15.5 motors as well but Any lower than 18.5 and you will have issues with the goat 3s on 3s lipo. In the manual it states to only use 2s lipo for anything less than 18.5 but no lower than 13.5 which is why most of the sets sold are the 18.5 & 21.5 varieties.

checking the lipo is easy if you stick you volt meter in the battery ports of the lipo you should see 9v-12.6v before charging for a 3s lipo, after charging you should see 12.6v or very close.
if you check the balance tap you should see the voltage of each cell
like this as a example

3v, 6v, 9v Just make sure you know which terminal is the common.

the fastest way to diagnose binding is to take out the drive shafts, spin the axles freehand and feel for ruff spots or obvious binds, then using the drive shaft on one output of the trans do the same.

If your pinion mesh is to tight you will cause wonky behavior of the motor, if the sensor wires were installed improperly you can still get it to work some times but will cog too. if the esc see's voltage drops due to the high draw it will cog. There is a few more reasons for it to act like you described but not many.

HandBuiltXJ said:

Are we sure the Lipo is fully charged? On my Novak crawler esc, glitching/stuttering meant Lipo cut off. I would have time in April to go through it for you if you don't get it figured out by then.

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on the 3s the cutoff is very obvious, it shuts off the motor for about 5 seconds and resets if the voltage comes back up but will shut down immediately if the voltage drops again this time flashing the status lights and staying down longer even if the voltage climbs back up some.

Ah, I had the 2s model.