Another BUMP steer issue..... HELP

I just lifted my 1998 Cherokee Sport. 5 1/2 inch rubicon express short arm, with drop brackets. And adjustable track bar. I also installed rugged ridge heavy duty steering.

When Im driving down the road and hit a bump the jeep wants to dart. there is also a dead spot in the steering wheel.

I know that the track bar and drag link should be parallel and the same length. How do I fix this problem???

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

Tom

Take a picture of your front end and post it up here.

As far as the deadspot goes, thats because of the rugged ridge steering, it is an inverted T type steering, and when there is a large angle on the drag link it causes the tie rod to roll.

Also, have someone sit behind the wheel of your jeep with the engine on and have them rock the wheel back and forth to see if anything is worn or loose.

Looks like the frontend isn't centered. Take the other pic like he said.

thomasn456 said:

I know that the track bar and drag link should be parallel and the same length. How do I fix this problem???

Click to expand...

How far off are you from being parallel/same length?

I dont see a pic? only a tiny red X

thomasn456 said:

.... installed rugged ridge heavy duty steering.

Click to expand...

As suggested already, RR HD steering is well known for having tie rod roll issues and a dead spot. You should look at an over the knuckle steering conversion.

The effective control arm angle with short arms and 5.5" of lift can cause the "darty" feeling as well.

...

My local 4x4 shop recommended JCR off road poly spacers and a drop pitman arm. I'm going to try that out. And then after I'll get the alignment done!

Thanks for the suggestions

only run a DPA if you also run a drop TB bracket.

the poly spacers sort of work, but because of SAI they will cause your steering box and pump to work harder while steering.

the "bumpsteer" you are talking about is most likely just the dead spot in he inverted T allowing your tires to move some without affecting the steering wheel.

the only way to successfully run inverted T is to keep the drag link as flat as possible. you can also run hydro assist from the axle to the tie-rod, that will help some. the easiest, bolt on solution is currie steering, or if thats out of your price range, a stock drag link and a v8ZJ tie-rod offers some strength over stock, although at 5.5" you will be clos to maxing out the drag link pitman arm side TRE. if you have access to a press you can bend the shank of that TRE down like the currie TRE to get some travel back.