1995 Alternator removal and upgrade questions

Decided to upgrade the stock aternator after I notice the voltage dropping excessively and the headlights dimming with the heater blower running. In addition, I plan on adding additional aux. lights and winch. I did a bunch of research on different fourms and general google searches. I picked up a 160 amp durango alternator for the swap from Advanced.

Ran into a bit of a headache with the manual belt tensioner as the sliding block was corroded to the bracket and wouldn't budge. Spent some time and got everything loosened up and proceeded to tackle getting the old alternator out. He's where I hit a road block.

The alternator is loose, front steel bracket removed and no matter which way I try, the alternator will not drop out. It gets hung up betwen the manual fan and the aluminum alternator bracket. I can't see how it will come out without additional work to create some space. I have seen the posts where people claim it drops right out yet I don't see how.

I was looking at it and wondering if I should try pulling the battery and lossening up the AC to get some room yet it still looks like its too tight.

It looks like if I pull the aluminum alternator bracket mounted to the block, the whole assembly will drop straight down. However, two of the bolts (actually studs) that hold the bracket in place appear to also serve as studs for the timing chain cover. I don't want to pull the studs if I end up with a oil leak at the cover.

Its a 1995 two door sport model with air conditioning. Truck is stock suspension (for now) yet I am not anywhere near any suspension component that would interfere with the removal. Battery wiring is already been upgraded expecting the upgraded alternator.

Just need some advice on getting the old out.

Thanks to all.

I removed the aluminum bracket to get it out, no leaks.

When I upgraded my alternator I pulled out the aluminum bracket with it, you have to clearance it for your new alternator anyways.

I just did this on my '01 this weekend while I was changing out the radiator, water pump and fan clutch so I had a lot of room to work with.

Take out the aluminum support with it, you'll need to clearance that and the steel bracket as well. Then before bolting it up together, take the aluminum bracket by itself and mount it to the block. then you can see where you need to clear the block a bit.

Thought that was the way to proceed yet was unsure regarding the case cover. Does anyone rembeber if the stud is fully threaded for the entire length or just enough to grab the aluminum bracket.
Thanks

I recall there are 3 studs. Two of them are of equal length and one is a lot longer. One of them was a bit smaller in thread size too. 2 of the studs go into the aluminum bracket. the 3rd lower one (the one with smaller thread size) does not i think.

In short take out all the studs. I used a 16mm deep socket to get them out, they were not on there very tight after loosening the steel bracket.

z06elmo said:

Then before bolting it up together, take the aluminum bracket by itself and mount it to the block. then you can see where you need to clear the block a bit.

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Installed a '98 ZJ 136 amp alternator on my '98 XJ several years ago. It required clearancing the aluminum mount and steel bracket without grinding on the block....

I just upped to 140 amp alt and did the brackets ,they fit nice . Then I thought about the block and came here for research . So it should be ok to grind down the block a bite with out leaking as timing cover will be clamped by the studs .

olliewagon said:

I just upped to 140 amp alt and did the brackets ,they fit nice . Then I thought about the block and came here for research . So it should be ok to grind down the block a bite with out leaking as timing cover will be clamped by the studs .

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Correct, it shouldn't leak, mine doesn't. I had to grind the stud mounts on the block equal to the trimmed aluminum bracket.

Thanks for the response .I thought it would be ok ,good to here some one did do it with no problem .Back at it tomorrow . Thanks again every one .

I just finished putting everything back to gether fired up 14.4 @ 750RPM 13.5 with high beams ,heat full and rear defroster @ idle . I would pull battery and tray, also fan and shroud , I had to re&re a few times . Do not remove air just more work . Put some cardboard in front of you rad for protection . Good luck it's eazy .:repair:

CharlesS said:

Installed a '98 ZJ 136 amp alternator on my '98 XJ several years ago. It required clearancing the aluminum mount and steel bracket without grinding on the block....

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i found that i did have to grind on the block.

there are 2 boses (SP?) on the bracket that you will end up clearancing, these boses are also on the block. in all my alternator upgrade reading, i only found ONE thread that mentioned this. in typical fashion, and excitement, i forgot this detail when i installed mine. until it wouldnt fit because of the boses on the block. 2 minutes with the die grinder and it was gone. vacummed everything up, then blew it really good with the air hose...

Thought I would update. I did get the alternator installed.

Used a 160 amp durango alternator. The two bolts that attach the aluminum bracket to the block pass through the timing chain cover therefore they can be removed without cauing a leak between the cover and the block. There is also the two that directly mount the aluminum bracket to the side of the block.

I did slightly trim the front steel barcket to fit the larger alternator case. Took my time using 4 1/2" grinder with 36 girt sandpaper wheel. Really only two minor areas needed grinding on the steel bracket and not much needed to come off.

The aluminum bracket needed even less grinding. I had the aluminum and steel brackets out of the jeep so I kept dry fitting and then grinding. It worked out well. Same 36 grit sandpaper wheel worked well on aluminum.

Didn't realize until I pulled the old one that the fiueld connector was going to be an issue. I did find a post where to took you through modifying the wiring to attach the dodge connector. Couldn't track down a junkyard in my area of South Jersey that had a durango in the yard with that connector. Ended up doing web search and found a site called the Repair Connector Store. They had it new, in stock, shipped to me express US Mail for a little under $20.

Replaced the serpentine belt with a Dayco 5060975 which is the factory specified one. Fit no problem. Kept the 7 groove pulley and just off set the belt to the rear groove.

Biggest headache I had with it was trying to get the power steering pump/belt tensioner loose. The adjustment bolt that threads though the sliding block adjustor was corroded for the full length.

BTW, tried two autopart stores for the belt tensioner gauge that I read about on line. Both acted like I was clueless and should just tighten it until there was no more than 1/2" play. Did that and it still seemed to have too much play, continued until I could barely trun the belt to 90 degrees between the AC compressor and alternator.

14.3 volts at idle with everything on. Power windows work way better, and headlights seem brighter.
Overall, not too difficult.
Thanks to all.