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Swapping out front axles

danny Benavidez

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Texas
Does anyone know how difficult it would be to swap out front axles? I have a 1998 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 with towing package. The current axle has ABS, can it be swapped for a non-abs and/or can the abs parts be moved to the non-abs axle. I am thinking of swapping out because the current axle knuckle is bent out of shape and the tires are towed out a the bottom and anytime I hit a rough patch going over 50 the whole front end shimmies and won't stop unless I pull over or go at least 100 yards down the road. I have already replaced the ball joints and it only fixed the problem temporarily.
 
You can swap the whole axle for another D30. You could swap shafts if you want. Your current shafts have tone rings on them for the ABS. Without, your ABS will not work. Which is not a big deal IMO.
 
You need to swap your current shafts and (possibly) steering knuckles, depending on what year your XJ is and how usable the machined threads for mounting the sensor on the donor axle are.

I have done a dana 30 swap in under 4 hours, but that was after plenty of practice.

You will need:
* metric socket set (usual sizes)
* english socket set (usual sizes)
* possibly large torx of some size for the UCA bolts on some years
* 5/16" 6 point box wrench
* jacks, etc
* 21mm box wrench
* 21mm socket
* breaker bar
* possibly sockets for the balljoints if swapping knuckles
* spare cotter pins (1/8" x 2" stainless is best)
* vise grips can't hurt
* big hammer
* a small prybar can be useful
* a big pipe wrench (at least 2.5-3") will help line up the control arms on the new axle, you can do it without but it's worth grabbing one
* if replacing unit bearings you will want a torque wrench capable of 175 ft-lbs and a 36mm socket, as well as two 1/8" x 3" stainless cotter pins
* if swapping knuckles and/or axleshafts you will want a 12 point 13mm socket

I'm sure I am forgetting something, but that is a good start.
 
Why didn't you replace the bent knuckle when you had it off to replace the ball joints ? Why replace the axle when all you need is another knuckle ?

Are you describing Death Wobble and the knuckle is fine ?

Nearly all the parts on an XJ/TJ/ZJ D30 interchange.
 
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Sounds more like the inner C and/or axle housing + tubes than the knuckles. I've never seen a knuckle bend without breaking or otherwise showing signs of damage, but I've seen a lot of inner Cs and tubes bend.
 
I find it odd that someone can be sure the axle is bent, yet have no clue as to how to R&R an axle assembly. I suppose if you hit something or were jumping the Cherokee that major housing damage would be visible by eye.

Checking an axle assembly for a bent housing involves remove the axle shafts and carrier, and using a straight indicator rod and machined inserts in the carrier bearing saddles. The axle tube ends are checked for misalignment with the ends of the indicator bar.

I suppose if a replacement axle is cheap enough or even free, one might find it easier and/or cheaper to swap in a different axle, than to check the housing for straightness.

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I've never spent more than 100 bucks on a dana 30, and his jeep probably has 3.55 gears, so damn near any XJ 30 at the junkyard will be a bolt in replacement. I'd probably just swap it out and then figure out if the old one is bent once it's out of the jeep... if it is, scrap it, if it isn't, resell it for the same amount.
 
I'm with Ken on this, D-30's are cheap. Also you can have a bent "C" and not have a bent tube which is visible by the camber of the wheel/tire.

As far as switching the axle over the ABS, all you need are your shafts, the brackets that holds the sensor harness and the knuckles that have the ABS sensor mount in them.
 
You will need:
* metric socket set (usual sizes)
* english socket set (usual sizes)
* possibly large torx of some size for the UCA bolts on some years
* 5/16" 6 point box wrench
* jacks, etc
* 21mm box wrench
* 21mm socket
* breaker bar
* possibly sockets for the balljoints if swapping knuckles
* spare cotter pins (1/8" x 2" stainless is best)
* vise grips can't hurt
* big hammer
* a small prybar can be useful
* a big pipe wrench (at least 2.5-3") will help line up the control arms on the new axle, you can do it without but it's worth grabbing one
* if replacing unit bearings you will want a torque wrench capable of 175 ft-lbs and a 36mm socket, as well as two 1/8" x 3" stainless cotter pins
* if swapping knuckles and/or axleshafts you will want a 12 point 13mm socket

I'm sure I am forgetting something, but that is a good start.[/QUOTE]

I would also suggest having a ratchet strap to assist you in removal and reinstallation. If you are getting a junkyard dana 30. Take a cordless sawzall.
 
Yes the "C" shaped thing on the end of the axle is bent. I measure both "C"s and on side is about 1/4 wider. So changing out the ball joists is not going to help me for long (as I learned) . Before I got the jeep (for $300) it was i a accident and none difff side upper control arm mounts was bent way out of shape. At the time I only needed to fix the mounts not knowing the "C" was also bent. I think it is easier to replace the whole axle than just one "C"

What is the real name for the "C" thing now I know it's not called a knuckle

1998 XJ 4x4 with ABS I think it has 3.55 gears
But I do not wish to lose my ABS.
 
Had you mentioned any of those details in your first post, your answer would have been very clear, very quickly.

Find a 1997-2001 ABS axle and swap it. If necessary, all your ABS parts can be installed on a non-ABS axle.
 
I would also suggest having a ratchet strap to assist you in removal and reinstallation. If you are getting a junkyard dana 30. Take a cordless sawzall.
great point. The big ass pipe wrench works just as well as the ratchet strap but the ratchet straps can be useful for lining up track bar and steering etc.

Had you mentioned any of those details in your first post, your answer would have been very clear, very quickly.

Find a 1997-2001 ABS axle and swap it. If necessary, all your ABS parts can be installed on a non-ABS axle.
You don't want 00-01 axles, they are low pinion.

You can also use all the way down to a 95 and end up with the big ujoint shafts which can be sold for more than half the value of the junkyard axle, reducing your overall cost. The knuckles are the same all the way from 92 or 93 or so up till the end of the line, IIRC.

97-01 has almost nothing to do with the year splits on a dana 30.

84-86 crummy, vac disconnect, weird balljoint adjuster things, old knuckles, some CV shafts, terrible
87-90 vac disconnect (iirc), maybe weird balljoint adjusters, renix style brake calipers
91-93 lots of knuckle and brake changes, confusing as hell
94 pretty standard, but has small ujoints unless it is out of an ABS rig
95-99.0 big ujoints, same brakes the whole way (also same as on a 94 and most 93s/92s)
99.5 big ujoints, new style brakes though, good if you're doing a WJ swap at some point
00-01 stay away if buying an axle, they are low pinion
 
From the nature of the questions, installing a 97-01 ABS D30 is the simplest solution, no swapping of parts for ABS needed. There was/is no mention of lift modifications, so HP or LP shouldn't be an important consideration in this particular swap.
 
What is best ?

I have found at the junk-yard a 4x4 1999 XJ with out ABS Hi-pinion , and a 2wd 1996 ZJ with ABS Low-pinion. So I'm thinking to take the ABS knuckle's from the ZJ and installing them on the 99 XJ axle.... that onto my 99XJ

OR

I can take a 4x4 1996 ZJ complete axle Low-pinion. But it has constant velocity joints. and I will like to keep my universal joint thank you. Can I swap out the CV-joints to my U-joint half shafts ?

Before I install the used axle I'll be replaceing all 4 ball-joints and diff seal and wheel hubs.


My 98 XJ is 4x4 with ABS and a Hi-pinion
* Losing my ABS is not a option. Thank you
 
I'm thinking the '99 is your best bet, should be close to a bolt on if you reuse your old axles, bearings, and brakes. Might want to just pop for new bearings though "while you're in there." AFAIK Timken is supposed to be the way to go but that is not from experience, just reading the forums.

That said, what is your gear ratio? I think at least in '99 if you have the real deal tow package you got 3.73s not 3.55s if my skim of the owner's manual is to be believed. So you'd have to swap over your gears as well. But you'll probably be running into that no matter what you do unfortunately.
 
why would you do anything with the ZJ stuff? No way...

Just buy that 99 axle, then put new balljoints and your original steering knuckles and ABS sensors etc on it. Problem solved.

I think you are overcomplicating this a bit.
 
All 3 jeeps have 3.55 so I did not say anything about it. My original "C" are bent so I'm not sure if I like the idea of reusing that side steering knuckle. As for the ABS sensors I can drill and tap the 99 knuckles to take my ABS sensors. But that I will need to set the gap and angle of the sensors. But the ZJ knuckles are already set right. I will be using new bearings.

I do think I have the tow package. But both front and rear are 3.55.
I may be overcomplicating this but this is my first time doing this.
 
The ZJ axle is most likely 3.73 gears.

Since about the mid 1990's AW-4 equipped Cherokees will have 3.55 gears.

Naturally, you will need to confirm what gears your Jeep has, and the gears in the donor Jeep.
 
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