"The 1987 RENIX 4.0 made 173 hp (129 kW) and 220 lb-ft (298 N·m) of torque. In 1988 the 4.0 received higher flowing fuel injectors, taking output to 177 hp (132 kW) and 224 lb-ft (304 N·m) respectively". "RENIX (Renault/Bendix) engine control systems, which were quite advanced for their time, but are now handicapped because there are very few scan tools which can be "plugged in" to a RENIX system for diagnosis. The Renix also used a very advanced engine knocking sensor, which allowed the computer to know if detonation was occurring, thus allowing the computer to make the appropriate changes to prevent this".
"Cherokees have been fitted with a wide variety of rear differentials. The Dana 35 (7.5-inch) and 35c, with or without c-clip retained axles, is most often found, with later Cherokees often being built with the Chrysler Corporate 8.25-inch rear differential, also with c-clip axles. By far the most sought after however is the Dana 44 8.5-inch semifloating (non-c-clip) rear differential with its heavy-duty iron housing, found only on some 1987-88 U.S. market Cherokees with towing package and (believed) some export models intended for rough-duty usage. The C-clip axles, while sufficient for moderate four-wheel use, can break under heavy load, resulting in separation of the wheel and axle from the vehicle".
"NP231 - "Command-Trac" part-time only - 2.72:1 ratio low range - shift pattern 2H - 4H - N - 4L - used 87-01
NP242 - "Selec-Trac" part-time OR full-time - 2.72:1 ratio low range - shift pattern 2wd - 4part-time - 4full-time - N - 4LO - used 87-01".
--This is copied from a valued source.
If you give more complete details re: transmission type, blah, blah, etc., then more can be shared to further shed further ins and outs, 'the good, the bad, and the ugly', etc.
Generally with any 'new'--'old' vehicle, it does one good to go over it with a fine-toothed comb, cleaning all grounds, figuring if any vacuum system, electrical system has faults, repairs, etc., and to make them sckoock-'em, and to check major components for road-worthiness, brakes, trans, engine performance, suspension, steering, tracking, wheels, tires, pressure, etc. These are old vehicles, and it will cost some to insure a sound vehicle for a 'Daily Driver'--DD, or not, and once sound it becomes a great platform to strengthen, armor-up, replace various parts with 'Heavy Duty' components, etc. This could even mean a lift kit, from restoration to OEM measurements, or an upgrade to something above, and beyond forest crawling, stream crossing, mud churning, rock manuvering, etc.., your choices. I'd say you can get a vehicle up to grade for several hundreds, to maybe only a couple of grand with bitch'in add-ons, like; bull bar front bumper, winch, tires, shocks, sway bar disconnects, rear leafs, etc. The saying that a boat in the water is just a hole in which to throw your money into. You can do the same with any vehicle, but the XJ remains to be a good platform in which to make upgrades. Where I live, the big Fords, Chevs, Dodge pickup trucks are maxed out and sort of 'rule', but the little XJ is a decent all around little rig to do stuff that may, or may not fit one like a good pair of boots, over a bad pair of boots. Point is if XJ is in your future, then consider that putting money into it, or into a 'piggy-bank' each month can really give a good worthy rig.., rather than committing to a dealership for an all around brand new vehicle, meaning that in some cases, money spent on new replacement parts, and junk yard finds, will actually save you big money via such a recycling project necessary to 'restore' a XJ to a competent, safe, useful rig.
First thing I did was to change out the wires/cap/rotor, grounds, starter, battery, cables, all fluids, winter tires, brakes, cleaning up wire ends, vacuum hoses, fixed, or replaced substandard parts, i.e., windshield, missing fasteners, etc., and then after awhile, the project began to upgrade to an Australian suspension, better articulation mods, and some aforementioned implied aspects in order to have great confidence in it as a DD, and as a trail breaker in blizzard snow drifts on one lane roads, etc. I would imagine more mud and rocks in your area, with some snow, I guess, lol. Point here is to upgrade your rig to handle your specific area needs. Lighting is a real good upgrade to accomplish for some real safety. There are aftermarket systems that are way better than OEM. You'll be glad you did. I can usually go anywhere beyond what any new SUV can do, and I have spent a lot less cash to do so.
HAPPY TRAILS!!!!
