Radiator repair?

I have found two pin hole sized leaks in the side of my radiator.
I'm wondering if any of you have found a product that I can use to patch them without removing it.
Maybe some epoxy?

:dunno:

Or should I just suck it up, pull the damn thing, and run it to the closest radiator shop (50 miles away.)

Is it aluminum rad with plastic tanks, or copper and brass one? If it's alum and it's coming from between the tank and the core, which is the most common leak, it can be re-crimped usually. A copper one can be re-soldered almost everywhere. Save yourself a ton of headaches and pull it and take it in. I promise you, you won't be sorry. Believe me, I have a similar 50 mile drive.

If this is an older radiator, bite the bullet and replace it. I'm not a big fan of repairing radiators unless it is a new one with a hole from a source other than age. A new radiator is not that expensive, between $80 - $200, depending on materials.

If it is a Copper/Brass radiator you can solder it. But, it need to be absolutely spotlessly clean in the area you are going to be soldering. On a tank repair, I will use 400 grit sandpaper to give the brass a bit of a tooth followed by and wipe down with laquer thinner just to be sure no grease is present. After letting the thinner flash off, I apply a dab of Flux then fire up the MAP torch and hit it with the solder. For the tubes, it is more difficult and the attempt should be made by a shop.

If it is the stock radiator, the "where is the leak" question is the most important one.

I have to admit that when I was installing the Currie Anti-rock, I sort of knocked a small hole in the driver's side tank... Turned out that I was able to turn my mistake into a teaching event for the kid. Bright side on the screw up I suppose...

But, the radiator was removed for the repair. You need to be sure it is as clean as possible.

New one from NAPA run around $130 for an all copper/brass unit. Given it is going to have to come out anyway...

Rick, use Pure GROUND BLACK PEPPER in it.Get the mid size can and pour it into the rad and the start and run the car to running temp for for 5 mins.With cap on.THEN shut done car and let sit till cool.Then open cap refill(if you see lots of water on floor) and then drive for for 20 to 30 mins and recheck.This will hold up to 20/30 psi in pressure.I did mine about 2 years ago and it is still holding.

Tell rad shop when you do this.They will thank you.

I was in the same situation...i went with a new cheapo radiator which cost me $66.

Or you can go with JB weld (not a permanent solution, if you ask me) or even a 2 or 3 core radiator... your call bro.

I recently put 2 eggs in mine and it seems to be working surprisingly well..

was leaking pretty badly from the end cap and has stopped all together

I just bought the rad. leak stop from autozone for mine.. Been working great for over 2 years now

Beware that anything you put in your radiator to try to stop a leak can end up clogging other parts of your cooling system, especially your heater core.

I'd fix the leak.

birchlakeXJ said:

Beware that anything you put in your radiator to try to stop a leak can end up clogging other parts of your cooling system, especially your heater core.

I'd fix the leak.

Click to expand...

X2 on that stop leak will also plug the ports in the block too that stuff should be outlawed I would stay away from it:skull1:

damn didnt know that... Good thing i put that shit in my yota before i sold it and not my xj

I had a pinhole leak in the radiator in my MJ.

I got a tube of JB Weld that was high temp and gooped a bunch into the hole. Never had a leak out of it until I replaced it.

Depending on the radiator construction it can be fixed.

Copper/brass - I have done campsite and trail repairs on multiple copper/brass radiators. Steel wire brush (the round ones from the home depot plumbing aisle meant for cleaning out 1/2" copper pipe fittings before soldering are great), a 4x6" sheet of copper roof flashing, a tub of flux, flux brush, roll of 95/5 plumbing solder, striker, and torch are in my standard trail repair kit.
Aluminum - you can get no-flux aluminum brazing/soldering rods, get some, a steel wire brush, and a propane torch.
Aluminum and plastic - if it's near the seal between the two you may be screwed.

scottmcneal said:

Rick, use Pure GROUND BLACK PEPPER in it.Get the mid size can and pour it into the rad and the start and run the car to running temp for for 5 mins.With cap on.THEN shut done car and let sit till cool.Then open cap refill(if you see lots of water on floor) and then drive for for 20 to 30 mins and recheck.This will hold up to 20/30 psi in pressure.I did mine about 2 years ago and it is still holding.

Tell rad shop when you do this.They will thank you.

Click to expand...

I got myself down off a remote mountain once by stopping at a little grocery store and getting the black pepper.

The radiator was peeing right out through the grille of my Nissan Patrol. Added the pepper and watched it trickle to a stop.
Just for the heck of it I did nothing to fix the radiator, just ordered a new one. Didn't put the new one in for 6 months. Never leaked. Always carried the remainder of the black pepper in my glovebox in case of emergancy.

Thanks for the help guys.

Black pepper is OLD school.I learned it from a OLD guy 30 years ago.It WILL NOT PLUG A RAD.