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Novak TC shifter linkages questions

jbmoose

jbmoose

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Alburtis, PA
novak%2520shifter%25201.jpg


novak%2520shifter%25202.jpg


http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_sk2x.htm

Does anyone run either of these? Which one? Between the cable or hard linkage, which would you choose? Novak kinda' describes as either one will work, but list the first as geared towards YJ's, while the cable is TJ's and XJ's. I favor the cable, especially the description "XJ / MJ Cherokees, with the priorities of ease of installation and smooth-as-silk shifting for both factory and conversion situations." My OE linkage is garbage, and the 'ol girl won't stay in 4wd. I've adjusted it, with some temp. results, but the rod is so crusty, and has about 4 different "me-made" kinks. So it's time to ditch it. Suggestions or testimonials? Thanks, JB
 
Last edited:
Searching the subject yielded 3-4 yr. old results, and the cable is a newer design
 
man that kit is overpriced go to the junk yard get the tcside leaver from a s10, tj shift arm, get some small heims and all thread and a couple of nuts and bam

here is the write up
http://www.bsfab.net/?p=26

oh and he says the tj shift arm is too long so just drill the hole were you need it and bolt it up. i dont see the need to fill the old hole. from the picture novack's has a slot on the tcase side

but if i were to buy one probably the cable i like the factory look plus the shifter is out of the way unlike novack's
 
I had the original shifter kit before the cable kit was available. Just looking at the install, I'd go cable kit hands down. It uses the factory handle, so not touching that part would save a ton of time, not mentioning the time required to bend the Novak shifter to properly feed it through the floor and adjust it for smooth operation. The cable should auto adjust if you modify your crossmember height and not require linkage cutting or adjusting to work properly.
The OEM linkage won't draw any extra attention to your rig either, if thieves are looking around. I don't want any bad guys knowing the transfercase isn't stock anymore.
 
I run the original one. Works great, Solid engagement. No problems... other than plugging the big hole in the tunnel... and the increased noise that's transferred from the t-case to the solid rod coming up into the cab. Also, by removing the OEM shifter handle, I was able to put a cup holder there, so I'm happy!
 
I run the cable, it was easy to install, easy to adjust, and works really well since i have tucked my drivetrain up a little higher than stock, plus i was doing a trans swap and didnt want to screw with the bracketry. overall, im pretty happy with it.
 
Just got done installing the Novak cable shifter. Works well (so far yard crawling), and is a definite improvement over the OE design. I did, however, spend over an hour with just the tunnel body bracket supplied in the kit. The four tabs all had to be tweaked to line up with the contour of the body, and I had to use a round file to oval one of the four mounting holes in the body so I could bolt up the bracket. Will post a pic of the finished product.
 
I'm running a 242 ( yes I swapped it in.) after a year or so i did a flat bottom. (4" lift and 32.5") I was shocked that the stock linkage no longer would work. So I trolled the net and found a gen on the zr2 forum. The 231 was a cable shifter. Phuckin win! $15 at the yard but took for ever to get it in. A s10 231 is 5 lug vs 6 on jeep. Cut weld repeat. Easy enough for me (welder / Aws cwi). But the 242 and 231 have a differnt gate. I have not gone the shifter to "click yet" the case has very defined clicks. It works well and would recommend the swap. Remember to grab everything at the yard. All nut bolts and brackets. Here in Portland oregon area we have a great u-pull set up. Lot of yards and good invantor. With that said I found 1 s10 with a cable shifter. My google fu says its a rare item.


This is not a easy swap. Cutting welding drilling( 1"hole to get the cable though the floor) pulling carpet (if you have one)

Just being up front. I hate went people leave out how long and hard a swap is
 
madmax said:
I'm running a 242 ( yes I swapped it in.) after a year or so i did a flat bottom. (4" lift and 32.5") I was shocked that the stock linkage no longer would work. So I trolled the net and found a gen on the zr2 forum. The 231 was a cable shifter. Phuckin win! $15 at the yard but took for ever to get it in. A s10 231 is 5 lug vs 6 on jeep. Cut weld repeat. Easy enough for me (welder / Aws cwi). But the 242 and 231 have a differnt gate. I have not gone the shifter to "click yet" the case has very defined clicks. It works well and would recommend the swap. Remember to grab everything at the yard. All nut bolts and brackets. Here in Portland oregon area we have a great u-pull set up. Lot of yards and good invantor. With that said I found 1 s10 with a cable shifter. My google fu says its a rare item.


This is not a easy swap. Cutting welding drilling( 1"hole to get the cable though the floor) pulling carpet (if you have one)

Just being up front. I hate went people leave out how long and hard a swap is
Click to expand...

Happen to have any more info on what trucks this cable shifter can be found in? Thanks,

Paint
 
I too, have the Novak cable shifter. It works very well, though I did have an initial problem. The bracket that mounts to the T-case came loose. It turned out that the bolts holding into the T-case were a short, and didn't catch enough threads. So the first few times it was shifted, it pulled the bolts out.

I don't know if the bolts into the T-case were the original bolts or not, but I talked to Novak. They assured me tat the 231 had plenty of threads in the case. So, I got 1" longer bolts, added a washer and lock washer, and put it back together.

I've not had a problem since. The shifting is very positive, and the stock handle and pattern are retained.

David Bricker / SYR
 
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