My now servicable non-servicable hub assembly

Sooooo, went to replace the hub assembly. 12 point bolts...no problem. Attach hub puller to hub assembly....no problem. Hub assembly comes apart in two pieces...Houston, we have a problem. Check out the pick.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/75256421@N03/6801298231/

So, it looks like the back piece is resting on a sleeve which holds the axle? BFH has not moved it. Tried to separate it by driving a screwdriver between it and the dust shield. Want to try the socket extension trick but not sure exactly were to put it. Is it the race immediately outside the axle shaft? Any thoughts on removing this would be nice.
Thanks,
GB

Sounds like you've separated the bearing.....which is what happens when you use a puller on the race that's not held in place by a housing or shaft. You've pulled the drive flange & center race right out.

The socket extension trick is what I'd use, on the lower 2 hub bolts. It's been years since I've had to do this on an XJ, you need to find a spot on or around the inner C to brace against as your loyal minion cranks the steering GENTLY.

This write up shows a better way of freeing up the unit bearing assembly.

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unit...tbearing-1.htm

This method works really nice. No pounding on the unit bearing bolts. Let physics help you...

Ivan, on that image, would that not push out both the hub and axle since it is pushing on the joint?

Yes, it does push out the axel and unit bearing as one assembly. But it makes it a whole lot easier to change out a unit bearing with everything off the vehicle and on a work bench.

You will obviously have to remove the calipers as well, but you can hang them off to the side, without having to disconnect any of the lines. It's only two bolts holding the caliper in place.

If u-joints are suspect, then that's a good time to change them as well....

I have used the method Ivan posted dozens of times, it works like a charm. you could also leave only the lower front most bolt in a few threads and put a 2x4 between it and the steering stop nub on the inner C, start the jeep and use the advantage of the power steering to push the hub out.

Forgive my ignorance, but that does not just shift my problem to a different place? I would still need to remove the remainder of the hub assembly off whatever is holding it in place, would I not? Thanks for your patience.

that is what we are telling you how to do.

Actually, on further reflection...... Ivan's method will not help in this case. The innner race, or drive flange, that the axle stub shaft resides in is now gone. You also run the risk of separating the bearing by Ivan's method.

use my method of putting a bolt back in 3 turns or so, and wedge something between the head of the bolt and the inner C. it will pop right out like nothing.

GrimmJeeper said:

use my method of putting a bolt back in 3 turns or so, and wedge something between the head of the bolt and the inner C. it will pop right out like nothing.

Click to expand...

See post #2.

so why is it not out yet, the point of asking for help is so you can try some other methods to getting it done

@Grimjeeper, apparently I am one of the 99% since I have to work a job while you all live the life of luxury and cruise the boards all day long! I shall do it tonight (the other "it" I did last night) after a free tequila & beer tasting by the house. Will try removing tonight. I assume the "inner c" is a reference to the bracket holding the entire wheel assembly.

"Inner C" refers to the cast C-shaped assembly that's pressed & welded onto the end of the axle tube. In post #3, the right end of the bolt is braced against it.

please don't take my post as asshattery, I was more ribbing Jeff than you Good luck, I know how frustrating it can be. The first time i took my unitbearings off it took me close to 4 hours to get them out.

bogaski said:

Forgive my ignorance, but that does not just shift my problem to a different place? I would still need to remove the remainder of the hub assembly off whatever is holding it in place, would I not? Thanks for your patience.

Click to expand...

It shifts the problem - but it shifts it to where you can get it out, move it about, and make it suit you instead of the other way about.

Once I have the shaft/bearing assembly out, I'll usually set the vice jaws to hold the bearing assembly atop them, dangle the shaft loosely in between, and prang the shaft end with a mallet with one hand while holding the shaft below the bearing with the other.

Or, you could also use heat - but for cheap insurance, I'd then replace the Cardan joint as well (granted, you should probably do that anyhow.)

On reassembly, paint the shaft splines and the seating surface of the new bearing assembly with never-seez - helps it break loose next time (trust me on this one...) I'll also use never-seez on the tapered part of ball joint studs and tie rod end studs - same reason. I can usually just tap a TRE with a mallet to loosen it, if I did it before. Remove the castellated nut and run a regular hex nut onto the stud until the top of the nut is just about flush with the top of the stud - wider smacking surface, and it helps keep the top of the stud from mushrooming if it gets stuck.

An update. I got it out. Could not get the socket/extension positioned correctly on the C bracket. Ended up using a block of wood. That got it started and was able to tap it out after that. I was surprised how relatively small the lip was. If it would have been much more, it could have been horrible to get off. Of course, lathered everything in anti-seize. Thanks for all the help folks. On to the brakes.