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OTK steering questions?

bails85

NAXJA Forum User
Location
phelan
Is there a write up here that shows how to correctly install an OTK steering setup. I want to do a 1 ton OTK setup with a new trac bar. I have heard that you need to relocate the sway bar brackets, cut the coil buckets, move the trac bar brackets, etc. I also believe the tracbar needs to be the same length as the drag link. It looks easy on a rig that is done to show pics but it seems like a lot of work. I personally don't know all of what needs to be done in order to achieve a correct steering setup. I have the experience to do the fab work but I need a better understanding of what needs to be done as far how to set everything up. also I plan on using an aftermarket diff cover such as ruff stuff. I have been looking at their kits as well as serious and a few others. If I'm going to spend the money I want to do it right the first time and be proud of my work. I am at 4.5 inches of lift and I'm on 32 inch tires. I'm into offroading and some pre running stuff but I'm not much for the rocks. Well not yet anyways. The biggest I plan on going is 35's and maybe 6" of lift. I like the 4.5 im at now though. Please don't send me alink to pirate 4x4. I can barely navigate through Naxja. I just need a little schooling. Also if anyone can help me out with different types of steering such as t, y, hydro, high steer,etc... That would be great to learn. Thanks a lot.
 
search dude. this gets covered often.

Inverted T- tie rod goes knuckle to knuckle, drag link attaches to the tie-rod.
Inverted Y- Drag link attaches to passenger knuckle, tie-rod attaches from the drag link to the drivers knuckle.
hydro assist- a hydraulic ram driven off of the steering box (must be tapped for assist) that allows for steering tires even when up against obstacles. a must for serious rock crawling or any tire over 35" IMHO

histeer- usually refers to steering that attaches to "arms" that are bolted to a machined surface on the top of the knuckles. almost always requires aftermarket knuckles.

you will need to cut the swaybar mounts off to get the tie-rod over the knuckle.

your DL and TB should be the same length and parallel to avoid bump steer and DW.

personally I would say avoid inverted T if you can, unless you can keep your DL extremely low angle or flat, you will have a dead spot, which can manifest itself as a wandering feeling on the road.
 
Most of the stuff I have found is from guys going tons under their jeeps. I'm running a hp30. Naxja is my main Source of info since I am the only one of my friends that has an xj or a jeep. I don't hang with any other jeepers to see how this is all done and I'm fairly new to the xj thing. I understand most of the small details but I have a hard time putting it all together. I'm not being lazy I just want to make sure. Maybe Im over thinking this but steering isn't something I want to screwup.
 
Most of the stuff I have found is from guys going tons under their jeeps. I'm running a hp30. Naxja is my main Source of info since I am the only one of my friends that has an xj or a jeep. I don't hang with any other jeepers to see how this is all done and I'm fairly new to the xj thing. I understand most of the small details but I have a hard time putting it all together. I'm not being lazy I just want to make sure. Maybe Im over thinking this but steering isn't something I want to screwup.

steering physics and geometry isn't going to change much between tons and a 30. just the length of material :roflmao:

go look at what the Naxja/Pettycash team did with their KOH jeep, that is probably the best steering setup you can get on a jeep axle without going with a KingPin axle and histeer arms. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1075100

you don't have to justify your questions to me, we all have them. thats why we have a forum. I simply suggested you search the mod tech and adv fab sections to find answers. there is a ton of great tech on this board.
 
One thing to think about is tie rod contact with the diff cover causing you to loose a little bit of turnig radius. I sent emails to a few diff cover makers and Ruffstuff is about 1/2 inch less clearance, Riddler is 1/4 inch less, and ARB is the same as stock. Just something else to think about.
 
I lost a ton of steering with my 1 ton set up with a ruff stuff cover. I have 6 washers on each steering stop.

Makes for a pain in some situations like parking lots.
 
Bails try google. Punch into the google search box: OTK, naxja
As long as you follow "whatever your looking for, naxja" it will point you in the right direction.
Also consider formally joining the club, you can likely get more than $35 worth of your questions answered around the campfire.

As far as clearing a ruffstuff, I am running JKS WJ steering kit flipped to OTK, the offset TRE's make clearing the cover no problem.

Are you going WJ? Or keeping stock knucks? Heims or TRE's? How many links are you looking to flip?

Rockclimber: you forgot crossover steering: the drag link mounts to a seperatearm on the kniuckle opposite the steering gearbox, tie rod mounts to link on knuckles relatively close to where a stock tierod would mount
 
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Going red will be my first order of business when I have the money. I got laid off and my unenjoyment got knocked down to a 1/4 of my normal pay. I am going to run the stock knuckles for now then if I can find wj stuff I will go to wj. I'm not sure what steering want to got with just a 1 ton setup. I have heard different things about "y" and "t" setups. I was looking at the ruffstuff kit since all of the other parts I have bought were completely overkill. But serious and JCR's look almost identical. But then there's iron rock and ironman. I'm not sure what to do. And I don't know enough about steering geometry to make a good decision. This is why I need Naxja. I'm usually on a real tight budget so I do what I can when I can. But my plan is to get steering, frame stiffeners, front axle regear, and electric fans with my tax return. Then my jeep will be able to get back on the road. I thought about just doing the currie drag link and a zj tie rod with a flip insert. But I want correct angles. I just want to know what my best option is for a decent price without spending a fortune. I don't need hysteer or hydro assist. Just a solid setup.
 
1. don't do electric fans.

2. don't do inverted T

3. unless you move the coil buckets back, and run the TB all the way to the inner C, you will have bumpsteer.

4. a straight wheel-wheel tie-rod will hit the diff cover

5. currie is the easy somewhat bolt-on option, the tie-rod flip will not affect geometry, but you will need to cut off the sway bar links and move them.
the currie setup will also allow you to keep your stock TB, I would get a double shear mount for the frame side, Clayton makes a really nice one that offers stock drop, and I would modify the axle side mount to use a rod-end with a 9/16" through bolt, plate the mount and run a straight panhard.
 
Why shouldn't I do the electric fans? The dirt bound setup seems to be a big hit here. Ok I'm done with the tech stuff. Some one just tell me what to buy. And from where. Thanks
 
go buy a currie steering, a tapered insert from blaine, flip the tie-rod, get some JCR sway bar mounts and be done.

E-fans will gain you nothing in power or Gas mileage improvement and won't cool as well as a good working clutch fan.
 
What about the trac bar? I had wondered that about the electric fans as well. Everyone who has them still says it's the way to go. Now I'm not so sure.
 
Gracias. I had wondered that about the electric fans as well. Everyone who has them still says it's the way to go. Nowim not so sure.

here is a secret, people rarely admit something they did was wrong, or they are unhappy with it.

I don't want to knock webdog, I think that kit he has setup is pretty slick looking, but I would only do it if I had to replace everything: aux fan, rad, and clutch fan.
 
What about the trac bar? I had wondered that about the electric fans as well. Everyone who has them still says it's the way to go. Now I'm not so sure.

get a currie trackbar to go with it.
 
iron rock offroad has a good over the knuckle setup. I've had it on my rig but i haven't really abused it yet. it comes with a bent tie rod to clear the front axle. it just uses heim joints but i believe they are the qa1 units. use that in combination with their track bar and the angles are all maintained.
 
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