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92 Chrokee Laredo budget build

lhamilton1807

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Wenatchee, WA
Hello everyone! I'm a new jeeper (bought my XJ in June last year, 2011) and told myself I had to lift it. I'm a teacher, so mechanical stuff is outside my realm, but I'm learning quite a bit and quickly, so don't feel that you have to only use small words when talking to me. Anyway, thought I'd join up here & share what I did with my xj.

Project: 1992 Cherokee Laredo from stock height (likely 1/2" saggy in the front and 1"+ saggy in the back) to 3 1/2" or so above stock height for under $300, not including new (to me) tires. Yes, I'm cheap. But that just makes it more fun.

Here are the instructions I found:
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Budget_Lift.htm

My parts so far:

1988 Dodge Dakota rear spring pack & 1979 F150 front coils: $40 delivered
Front & rear Rough Country nitro shocks & dust boots: $127 shipped (resold boots on ebay - was warned they just collect crud)
Misc. parts for homemade leaf clips, swaybar disconnects, etc.: $25sih
Used rear rubber brake line from a YJ Wrangler (it's 2-3" longer than stock): $10
1.75" front coil spacers (used from eBay, only 20k mi on them): $30 shipped

So far I've gotten the Dakota packs split apart and have cut the main leafs to size. Once I'm ready for the lift (I need the help of a friend with some tools, etc) I'll put the Dakota packs (minus the overload spring) under the main leaf spring from the Jeep and won't use the other Jeep springs. I've got pics of before/after the cutting, and will update with those soon.

10/5/11 Pictures
Leaf springs before & after cutting. Used a metal-cutting blade in my circular saw to cut off the head of the center pin, and used a hammer & chisel to take off the clamps. Then I measured the distance from the center pin to the front & then to the back on my Jeep's main spring and cut the Dakota main springs to those lengths from the center pin hole. Now I need to strip the rust, prime, and paint before reassembling with grease to eliminate the sqeaks.


10/6/11 pictures
I used a brass brush bit and cleaned up the loose rust on the leafs. My 5 year-old son helped me pick out the spray paint (he like the sound of "industrial") and spray primer on the short leaf.


10/13/11 picture update:
I decided to paint the front springs, too. They got chipped during installation, though
frown.gif
Altogether, I netted 4" front & back over stock. I also made quick disconnects for the front anti-swaybar links, so I can take out the vertical links before I go off-road and get more flex, but put them back on when driving on the road so I don't have a lot of body roll.


And... The final product! It took 14 hours altogether. Before and after shots (note the position of the red ball on the windshield; the jeep wasn't moved forward or backward during the lift). I had to make a bar pin eliminator for one of the shocks in the back b/c the previous owner broke a bolt putting replacement shocks in, and just welded the bar pin in place. I had to grind that out, make the bpe, and then bolt/weld the bpe in before I could put the shock in.




I've now put the rear fender flare on. It came with the jeep, just needed some new nuts & bolts and it was good to go.

And what I HOPE to do very soon: put the big bumper on! It came with the Jeep when I bought it.


The rear driveline angle was pretty steep, so a friend brought over some shims for the rear springs, longer u-bolts from his shop, and then I made some 1.25" TC drop spacers out of box pipe & massive nuts welded in them to keep them from compressing. All drive line vibes are gone. All of this was free

I collected a bunch of free used tires on CL and traded them for a set of used 31x10.50R15's at a local tire shop, so nothing out of pocket there (they're Toyo A/T's, so Les Schwab rebalanced them for me for free!). I sold my old set of MT's from the pics above for $80 and am now looking for longer LCA's and an adjustable trackbar. The project's been on the backburner for a while now. It's not my DD, I walk to work

Total budget for the rig (including the Thule on top, bumper, spare front driver fender, lift pieces, and covers for interior seats) is $2000 now. I'm pretty happy with her It does great in snow, too! After the trackbar/lca upgrades, I hope to make a stronger rear bumper with a tire mount & cb antenna mount. Will just need some scrap metal & borrow my friend's welder! What next... front locker? I was looking around & found some lunchbox lockers for Dana 30s for under $300. Do those work well?
 
Cool build! I really like it. That's what I did recently with my XJ. Cheap and simple lift was in mind and I like how mine turned out.

Your question about the front locker is something I have been looking into as well lately. From what I understand having a locker up front makes it drive kinda weird unless you get the full disconnecting hubs. I think I'm just going to do a lunchbox locker in the rear and maybe an LSD up front sometime down the road. My open/open setup currently has got me through everything I've tried. But even just the rear locker would have helped in some area's.

Im sure someone with more front locker experience will chime in and inform us on what the deal is.
 
From what I understand having a locker up front makes it drive kinda weird unless you get the full disconnecting hubs.

thats complete bs, had a lockrite im my d30 and it was completly invisible in 2wd, got many friends who have used lunchbox and detroits in there d30 without issues also
 
thats complete bs, had a lockrite im my d30 and it was completly invisible in 2wd, got many friends who have used lunchbox and detroits in there d30 without issues also

Really? I would think that with a locker up front going around corners would pop and shift sideways and make it scary to drive?

Weird...
 
I've heard they are fine when you aren't in 4wd. If you ARE in 4wd, make sure you let off the gas all the way through the turns so they open up. Otherwise, you'll turn the wheel but will keep going straight :)
 
Really? I would think that with a locker up front going around corners would pop and shift sideways and make it scary to drive?

Weird...
nope in 2wd thay just rachet, drove it in the snow in 4wd and it was fine, if i got real hard into the throttle it would start to push but you would have to be trying for that
I've heard they are fine when you aren't in 4wd. If you ARE in 4wd, make sure you let off the gas all the way through the turns so they open up. Otherwise, you'll turn the wheel but will keep going straight :)

read comment above
 
Thanks for the help :) I'll probably get one for the front eventually. Not sure if it'll be a spartan, lockrite, or an aussie. Will have to do the homework when I have the $300 to purchase one :)
 
i guess i just got lucky... i've only got $1,900 in the wife's xj and all i have left to do is get around to doing a sye, but for now its riding on 6" of lift and 36" tsl's
 
Carefull with those.. polly bushings and super ridged can tear your mounts out... the factory are flexible for a reason....

I don't wheel hard. If I feel it's too stiff, I'll probably put my stock bushings in or buy some new ones. thanks for the forewarning, tho.

i guess i just got lucky... i've only got $1,900 in the wife's xj and all i have left to do is get around to doing a sye, but for now its riding on 6" of lift and 36" tsl's

WAY cool. Good to know there are other budget lifters out there!
 
I got the lca's and the RC adjustable track bar in last night. Now I just need to adjust my toe-in and I'll be able to drive it for the first time in a LONG time :) Will get pics up soon.
 
I promised some pics, and here they are.

Stance with 31" tires & the rear fender flare on (yes, there's some bondo work to be done).




My new (to me) procomp lower control arms. When compared to the old ones, they're longer, built MUCH heavier, and they bow inward toward the middle of the vehicle. I had a little tire scrub before, but now there's about 2" of clearance at full wheel lock.




Okay, see if you can find the new part in this picture! :laugh2: It's hard to get a picture of the whole track bar. It's got a tie rod end on the top right like the old one, but the tie rod is certainly beefier. In comparing the two rods themselves (sorry... that sounds a bit sick to me...), the new one is much stouter.




After doing a home alignment, it pulls to the right a little and the steering wheel is just a little off center. I've got just enough left from selling the old tires & the camera for a $65 alignment @ les schwab with $10 to spare. I think I'll get a new heater core valve. It's what's leaking water all over the board under the Jeep.
 
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